Steeda S550 Mustang Front Roll Center & Bumpsteer Correction Kit (15-19 All)

[BmacIL]

I have the FP M-5300-W springs on. Lowered 20mm. Not a big drop but did seem to induce some more bump steer. What do you think about the bump steer kit with the tension link for magneride? Worth the effort?

The roll center correction kit is definitely, definitely worth the effort. You'll need the bumpsteer kit with it. The steering feel, steering response and grip from the front is noticeably improved. The tension link upgrade with bearings is a very nice compliment, as it makes the car feel a lot more consistent under heavy braking (since there's no deflection from those points). On the street, those aren't a big change, but worth it for a car that sees track use. My tension link bearings are the J&M ones, as I won them.

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[tj@steeda]

Is this kit for magneride? I don't recall seeing it mentioned that magneride equipped S550s can use this kit.

It does not fit as the knuckle is different.

We will have a GT350/Magnaride kit shortly.

I will let the group know when they are available.

TJ

 

[Nonsequitur]

It does not fit as the knuckle is different.

We will have a GT350/Magnaride kit shortly.

I will let the group know when they are available.

TJ

That's interesting as I have the kit on my '18 GT with Magnaride. My mechanic installed it with no issues? LoL

 

[tj@steeda]

Hello Mark,

I can only go off of what our installation team has provide in terms of feedback - I will pass along your info / feedback.

TJ

 

[BmacIL]

That's interesting as I have the kit on my '18 GT with Magnaride. My mechanic installed it with no issues? LoL

AFAIK only the Shelby actually has a different ball joint seat. The GT with Magneride has a different knuckle than without MR but retains the same front control arms.

 

[Norm Peterson]

AFAIK only the Shelby actually has a different ball joint seat. The GT with Magneride has a different knuckle than without MR but retains the same front control arms.

I was wondering yesterday if export cars were at all different in this respect. Now that you've mentioned that the Shelby actually does use a different ball joint seat, I'm wondering if there's any chance that the PP2 inherited that. Strictly a matter of idle curiosity.


Norm

 

[SLOBullitt]

Sill a little confused. Steeda, when I called before ordering the parts I forgot to ask - like a dummy- if these parts are for magneride. Before I start banging parts off can you confirm? Thanks.

 

[tj@steeda]

We have a kit coming for the GT350/MagneRide - we do not have one available at this time.

TJ

 

[Grintch]

There has been talk across various threads that the new control arms reduce the front track, front strut clearance, and front camber.

This is a big concern to me as with my camber maxed out (-2.6 with Steeda plates) I still get excessive outside edge tire wear (indicating I need MORE camber, not less). And I have to run a small spacer so my tires clear the strut.

 

[BmacIL]

There has been talk across various threads that the new control arms reduce the front track, front strut clearance, and front camber.

This is a big concern to me as with my camber maxed out (-2.6 with Steeda plates) I still get excessive outside edge tire wear (indicating I need MORE camber, not less). And I have to run a small spacer so my tires clear the strut.

They do not reduce front strut clearance at all, they just move the whole knuckle inboard and up at the same ride height. Front track and max camber are reduced, but you can get plenty opening up the tower hole or doing a combination of strut bolt slot and plate camber.

The handling benefits and grip are worth it.

 

[Grintch]

How much camber do you lose?

And what are the Pros and Cons of doing the bearing up grades? NVH acceptable for a daily driver?

 

[db252]

I don’t think you’re losing, or gaining for that matter, any camber angle. All that is happening is the extension of the ball joint stud which is lowering the position of the lateral link to aid in bringing roll center correction to lowered cars. Could there be something??........sure, but I doubt it’s even measurable. My camber didn’t change at all when I installed the kit and I have always had the ability to get to -2.6 before and after install with my caster/camber plates. Now my toe was completely out of whack after installing the bump steer but that was easily corrected.
It’s seems crazy to me that you’re getting lots of outside tire wear with the -2.6 but other factors are involved such as tire profile size, brand, steering angle, tire pressures, driving habits and various other attributes.
Now changing the control arm bushing to a bearing will also help. Deflection would be taken away from the equation which would normally have constant variable affects occurring. I personally don’t think you’d notice any nvh moving to these. I get some from my rear bearings which is alleviated from lubrication spray applied about 2-3 months and I spray the fronts just because. My car is daily driven and on road course 6-8 times a year.

 

[BmacIL]

I don’t think you’re losing, or gaining for that matter, any camber angle. All that is happening is the extension of the ball joint stud which is lowering the position of the lateral link to aid in bringing roll center correction to lowered cars. Could there be something??........sure, but I doubt it’s even measurable. My camber didn’t change at all when I installed the kit and I have always had the ability to get to -2.6 before and after install with my caster/camber plates. Now my toe was completely out of whack after installing the bump steer but that was easily corrected.
It’s seems crazy to me that you’re getting lots of outside tire wear with the -2.6 but other factors are involved such as tire profile size, brand, steering angle, tire pressures, driving habits and various other attributes.
Now changing the control arm bushing to a bearing will also help. Deflection would be taken away from the equation which would normally have constant variable affects occurring. I personally don’t think you’d notice any nvh moving to these. I get some from my rear bearings which is alleviated from lubrication spray applied about 2-3 months and I spray the fronts just because. My car is daily driven and on road course 6-8 times a year.

If your camber didn't change, you didn't install the right arms. It's impossible for it to not reduce static camber with the top in the same spot. Just trigonometry. Maybe you bought the bearing arm kit but without the geometry correction. My car went from -1.6/1.7 to -1.0/1.1 doing nothing but installing those arms. The improvement in dynamic camber is completely worth the static camber adjustment loss if you have plates.

No change in NVH from the roll center correction arms at all. The bearing on the inner point is identical to the one on the PP lateral arm. @Grintch

 

[Roadway 5.0]

I went from -2.0 on each front wheel to -1.6 each. I went for the stiffer bushings due to snow and salt; no NVH issues at all.

 

[Grintch]

No change in NVH from the roll center correction arms at all. The bearing on the inner point is identical to the one on the PP lateral arm. @Grintch

Maybe I am confused, but there seem to be as many as 3 variations availible for the arm and associated joints on Steeda's website. The part referenced in the announcement that starts this thread appears to use the standard bearings. But you would not want to install these and then decide a month later that you should have upgraded the bearings too.

Maybe TJ can clarify?

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