Budget 2018 twin turbo GT build--Under $5k including fuel upgrades

[imrex613]

I have a hellion sleeper kit on my car if you want to check it out sometime. I live in falls church and work in springfield.

Nice! You are close I'll send you a pm.

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[gimmie11s]

are the turbos the lowest point on the car or is the frame still lower?

Frame rails are lower than the turbos

I got back to the track on my turbo car and the 2-2tep setting is crucial to build boost. On the 2-step and tbrake at 3500 it barely made 3psi. bumped it to 3700 and it made 4.5 and at 3800 it made 6.5 and blew the tires off.

Yeah... t brake is gonna be critical. I don’t think I’ll cross that path but 4 psi at launch would be AWESOME.

 

[Hyper771987]

Frame rails are lower than the turbos




Yeah... t brake is gonna be critical. I don’t think I’ll cross that path but 4 psi at launch would be AWESOME.

Would you be so kind to post how you went about wiring your 2 step ?

I have the MSD-87311, and I was told that switching the wires on #3 cylinder would make it work on the gen3s.
Also which wire did you use for activation and what wire did you tap into?

Thank you!

 

[gimmie11s]

Would you be so kind to post how you went about wiring your 2 step ?

I have the MSD-87311, and I was told that switching the wires on #3 cylinder would make it work on the gen3s.
Also which wire did you use for activation and what wire did you tap into?

Thank you!

I tapped into the brake pedal..: I’ll have to go back and see which wire.

Send me a pm to remind me... I’m out of town for 2 days

 

[Hyper771987]

I tapped into the brake pedal..: I’ll have to go back and see which wire.

Send me a pm to remind me... I’m out of town for 2 days

PM sent

 

[kcc0521]

Use the violet wire which is the one that has two wires tied together on one terminal.

 

[Hyper771987]

Use the violet wire which is the one that has two wires tied together on one terminal.

Got it!, I’ll be home next week and I’ll try that.

 

[myfast70]

Cool build and great results!

 

[Performance nut]

@gimmie11s I'm going to start condensing this into fewer posts for those who are interested in your build. I'm going to quote your progress and questions you answered. This way if you want to assemble a "how to" thread, the info is easier for you to grab. Great work by the way.

Ive slowly been gathering parts for my build. I had a 2014 MT82 car that started as a Paxton car and ended as a On3 twin turbo car. Loved how that car ran on the twins. On3 install was a BEAR, but once it was done and the exhaust leaks fixed, it ran like a scalded ass ape. Sold that car and bought a virgin/0 mods 1 owner 2007 GT500 with ~6000 miles. Modded it to 643 whp and then sold that one too.

Bought this beauty in March and she just broke 3000 miles. It's a 301A 10r80 car and absolutely love it. She went 11.6@121 in 3500ft DA with only an e85 tune and cat deletes.





So.. .main components to this install:

--CX Racing TT kit for s550
--CX Racing 6765 dual BB, billet wheel T4 turbos with .81 hot sides
--Amazon 3gph bronze geared scavenge oil pump
--Tons of misc -4 (turbo feed), -8 (trans oil cooler line), and -10 (oil drain and return) hose and black fittings
--Performance Automatic part No PA68505 10r80 fittings for custom lines
--stainless 3" custom exhaust built by me
--Sai Li return fuel system
--ID1050x injectors
--will likely be Lund tuned


I stumbled upon this TT kit by mistake after looking for a turbo solution for the s550 cars that didn't cost $10k all in (fuel, tuning, etc).

https://www.cxracing.com/MF-IC-KIT-50-MUSTANG15

Having gone the China route before on my 2014 and being able to fabricate my way through problem, I said why the hell not, let's give it a go. And for the price, wow.... kind of a no brainer.

Now... the kit is not complete and actually missing quite a bit to make it a bolt on affair. I still needed to buy turbos, all oil pluming (lines and scavenge pump) and fuel. I ended up buying two CXRacing 6765 sized dual BB, billet wheel turbos. The quality on them seems fine (they appear to be rebadged Magnum turbos) but jury is out on them so fingers crossed for now.

Intercooler is a 4" core, so im hopeful it will do the job nicely. I am also using 2 genuine Tial MVR wastegates that I had "just in case" from my past tt build on the 2014 car. CXR credited me $200 on the kit for keeping their wastegates so I thought that was great.

Couple pics of the kit as it came.

I didn't like the cold side raw aluminum so I had it all powder coated low gloss texture black.







Started tearing the old girl down tonight. These damn S550s are full of extra shit. Insulation, brackets, tons of electrical sensors for every damn thing. Ridiculous. Take a look at this weird electric actuated air damn thing just behind the front bumper cover.

The face only a mother could love LOL.

Got the IC hung tonight. Looking darn good.

Lots of small, side projects left to do other than the obvious parts of the install.
--remove factory trans cooler hard lines and install -8 lines re routed to driver's side
--measure, cut and assemble -4 lines for feed
--measure, cut and assemble -10 lines for oil dump from turbos and return to oil filler
--fabricate mounting bracket for scavenge pump
--relocate wastegates as the 10r80 is wider than the mt82 this kit was based around

Probably more but i'll document as I go.

Couple more misc pics.

More to come!

Today's update. Worked on drivers side. Found that wastegate needed to be relocated as described a few months back to me by a fellow who has this kit. No prob.. cut, weld, test fit. Done.

Couple detail pics below of manifolds which are 1 3/4 along with comparison to stock manifolds. Not too bad for China.

Also turbo manifolds are 1.2 lbs lighter than stock mani's.





Stock manifolds neck down to 1 5/8 or smaller in some sections.







Manifold to turbo couplers.






6765 dual bb billet wheel turbos... China style lol.

Here is a pic of the coupler bolted to the manifold. Clearly issues with the wastegate mount.

Chopped it off and repositioned it. Welded her up and whola.

How it sits now. The head of the WG is just below the frame rail. Not as tucked up as I would like TBH, but itll work.





Couple more pics of it all mounted up on the drivers side. Looks like I need to extend the downpipe about 6" (we all need a 6" extension--right?) to mate up to the X pipe.

Alright... only got about 3 hours to tinker today.

I used every bit of that time removing the factory passenger side manifold, hanging the new turbo manifold and removing the factory trans cooler and lines. All of it a HUGE PAIN IN THE ASS! Actually had to remove 4 or 5 of the manifold studs just to get the damn thing to come off even with the motor lifted about 4" up off the motor mount.

Need to run to the hardware store tomorrow and buy some bolts to get the pass side header fully bolted up and be done with that. Cant reuse some of the factory studs--too tight in there.

Going to make custom braided cooler lines and reroute/attach them to these cooler fittings/adapters. Should be pretty nice when done and free up a bunch of room on the pass side for intercooler piping.

pics

Initial mock up is telling me similar fab going to be required to keep the pass side wastegate from hitting the trans pan.

Down pipe also does not appear to line up exactly perfect with the turbo outlet v band. Might have to do some work on that one too.

Sai Li fuel system came in. It appears we are keeping with the theme as all of the fittings he includes are, well, made in China! Lol.

Finally done with cutting, welding, fabbing of exhaust and wastegates.


Had to re position wastegates on both sides driver and pass. Ugh! All good now. Looks bad ass and gave me renewed motivation after today’s progress.


Tomorrow is cold side mock up and then start fabbing oil feed and return lines.

Made some headway on the cold side today. It is so damn tight in there holy crap.

Tons of new scrapes and bruised arms after today.

Gonna look killer when done tho!

I test fit the front bumper cover afterwards expecting the worst but nope— fit back on like a glove.

Well... little progress to report today... not much.


Fabbed lines for trans cooler since I had to relocate them from pass side to dr side.


They came out great. They are -8AN black braided.


Giggidy!

Little progress today.. not much.


Got around to pulling the oil pressure sender so I can install turbo oil feeds.


As luck would have it, Ford changed the thread pitch, thread size, and sensor on the gen 3 coyote (2018+).


Couldn’t find any info online about the size at all so took the sensor to hardware store and matched up a nut.


Size is m12 x 1.5. Ordered a m12 1.5 x m12 x 1.5 x 1/8 NPT adapter from summit so I can run oil feeds.


Also found a good spot to mount the oil scavenge pump and fabricated a quick bracket out of some steel I had laying around the shop. Not my best work but it’ll do! I’ll have it powder coated to match the intercooler piping in the next week or two.


Some pics.

Couple pics of the finished trans cooler lines.

Couple small updates for the weekend.


Didn’t have a whole lot of time to tinker plus still waiting on some small nick nacks for the oiling system.


Oil is going to return to the filler neck. I drilled a 9/16 hole into the neck and installed a 10an fitting. Came out good. Fabbed oil return lines from turbos to oil pump and oil pump to filler neck.


Worked on oil feeds but the adapter I bought won’t quite work. The 1/8 npt ports are too close to the block once installed which won’t allow me to install the 4an fittings.


Going to buy another one and stack them... push the fittings out an inch or so. Should be fine then.

Had about 2 hours today to tinker.


Finally finished up oil feed set up. Got alternator reinstalled and belt back on. Needed to room to install oil feed off block.


Lines came out good. Not a whole lot left now. Hope to have her running soon.


Heat wrapped first oil line off block as it runs under the dr side manifold.


Also ran 2 loops in the feed line to try and prevent smoking and residual oil issues after shut down with the remote turbos.

Bigly progress today. Would have pressed the start button but still need to wire up the oil pump and we are off to basketball practice for my son.


Re routed my oil return lines. Got turbos clocked properly and installed for last time (I hope). Finished cold side and got it all bolted down.


Got heat wrap installed on bottom of car next to turbine housings.


I made a poor mans 2 stage electronic boost controller with a MAC solenoid I got off amazon for $25.


Things are looking up!


I’ll start it in the stock tune tomorrow and just check for leaks.


Giggiddy!

Some more updates. Tune has been paid for and I got the base file today. I won’t be able to start logging yet though until I tie up some loose ends.


Started installing injectors today and also removed manifold to install IMRC lock outs.


Lock outs arrive Friday so I will be buttoned up by then and will being the logging/tuning process.


Getting rid of the IMRCs will clean up the back of the intake nicely getting rid of the vacuum canisters.


Butterflies will be locked into the open position with the MMR kit.

Few pics.

Alright a few updates. Car is 98% there. I still have the front bumper cover off because ive changed oil return line set up/routing a few times and still not sure im happy with it. Also the pump is LOUD and thinking about replacing it with a pump with helical cut gears vs the straight cuts in this pump.

Im in the middle of tuning now. Sending logs and receiving revisions. Think im on revision 3 or 4 as of today. Trouble is I wont be able to mess with it until Friday... getting ready to fly to Denver for the week in a few hours.

Got a quick start up video and walk around.... link below. She sounds soooo good! Little hints of turbo whistle through the stock mufflers too.

On revision 3 of the tuning process, I was able to go WOT for the first time and HOLY SHIT is this car fast. The Tial gates have 5 psi springs in them but im only seeing ~3.7 or so psi on the springs. It breaks the tires loose from a 4th gear roll on 3.7 psi hahahaha. This car is going to be stupid fast at 10 psi.

Finished up my boost "scramble" switch lol. Car is going to run on gate springs, then when I hit this switch, i'll get my second boost setting which will be ~10 psi. Came out awesome!

Couple pics.

Quick update..


During tuning we found that my fuel rail pressure was dropping to 35 psi or less at only 4 psi boost even though I have the regulator set at 55 psi. Not good!!


Turns out the factory rail is a piece of shit. The port injection side of the rail is fed by the high pressure side of the rail.


Problem is port side is only fed with one tiny port on the driver side seen below.


Instead of buying $400+ worth of new rails and fittings I simply added another feed to the factory rail on the passenger side.


Logs confirm I now hold 55+ psi fuel pressure under boost. I’ve tested up to 10 psi boost and still holds. Hell yes!


Side note... that 10 psi hit was today on the highway in Mexico at 60 mph in 4th gear..... it absolutely wastes the tires from a 60 roll forcing me to pedal it into 5th and 6th! Insane.

I used the port on the intake manifold behind the throttle body where the PCV valve (pass side cam cover) was plumbed into and made my own vacuum manifold from hardware store parts.

1 line goes to my boost control solenoid. 1 line goes to my Tial BOV. 1 line goes to my boost gauge sensor.

I only have 1 BOV.

The hose and most of the common fittings (90s, straights, 45s, etc) came from China via Amazon. Some off brand I don't remember at the moment.

The black nylon hose is steel braided and good quality from what I can tell. Everything is holding up nicely at this point.. 0 leaks of any kind and I ran A LOT of new oil fittings/lines/components.

Some of the more obscure parts had to be sourced from Summit like the -10AN Y block and the metric fitting coming off of the oil filter housing.

I thought I should add.... Yes the IC is cheap compared to some of the other fabbed units out there (Hellion or Procharger as example--Those are NICE!).

However, this IC has been used with great success on a few other kits/platforms. The recently released BBR 15-19 s550 single turbo kit uses this IC along with some others.

Other than CXRacing, the IC can also be found here: http://www.anfittingsdirect.com

What's going on man!?! Im sure i have some footage of that pass. Let me dig some.




Only "hard" part is removing the trans cooler, which isnt really that bad. The routing is very easy.. no tight bends at all; all slow, sweeping bends and nothing in the way. Very smooth sailing once you move them to the driver's side.

Great question and i have to go through my phone to see if have some pics but yes... The aluminum lines coming out of the cooler arent really barbed.. more like ribbed. There is one true barb at the bottom of each fitting to hold the hose on so i simply shaved that down allowing the compression fitting to slide over it and up onto the ribbed fitting. The ribs are wide and flat, not sharp or circular/rounded, so once it tightened down they dont leak.

6r80 car will require similar mods as mine. The kit was designed around an MT82 car. Direct bolt on for MT82 cars, but not autos unfortunately. I have 0 exhaust leaks. The on3 kit on my 2014 Mustang had exhaust leaks for days that were a PITA to correct. I have found the CXR craftsmanship to be fine and acceptable. It is not show worthy like a FatFab or Armageddon kit, obviously.

Ground clearance is better than a Hellion top mount. There are no low-hanging pipes. Go through the thread.. i believe i have some pics of the low points.



+1.

You could also use the hairspray trick on the beads.... Ive had good luck with that in the past.

Dumped the factory cat back and installed a custom 3” dual turbo-back exhaust.


I bought the mufflers from amazon for $33 each. They are Magnaflow copies (maybe they’re rebranded MF’s?) and appear to be made very well.


The rest of it is a combo of 3” stainless mandrel bends from Summit.


I got it all measured, cut up, welded and installed.


Pain in the ass to make 2 sides line up perfectly and look somewhat symmetrical!


Glad it’s done though and will free up a couple psi boost and probably 40+ more horsepower.


Pics

Yes you need 2 -8 adapters instead of the -6 that comes in the kit.

They are 1/4 npt to -8AN adapters.

I used these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XS3VTQJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title


Hope this helps

Drain off the turbos? They are 90’s going into a -10AN Y.

The pump is mounted right under the horn on drivers side. Works excellent.

Let me know what you want to see and I’ll look for pics.

The pump? Yeah, it’s protected by the bottom air dam that bolts to the front bumper cover.

Yes it’s being returned to the filler cap. Works perfect.

Really no complaints on the oiling system other than the loud pump.

There is A LOT of power left on the table with stock mufflers and turbos. Mandatory that you have straight through mufflers with turbos on these cars.

Here are the mufflers. I also ended up running some resonators.. im a pansy and dont like loud vehicles. Posted info on those too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GWNDL5G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072C6FD5H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had to use 2 Vibrant metric adapters. They are stacked (one is basically used as a spacer).

Below is the link

0 leaks of any kind thus far after ~1500 miles...

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-10595

Also... my car is a 2018 and they changed the oil pressure sensor thread pattern and pitch for 2018!

The 11-17 cars use standard sae fittings.

However I think the gt350 uses the same as mine but be sure to verify before you buy...

After the collector the remaining IC piping is 3" until the upper IC pipe before the throttle body whihc is 3.5".

It is VERY tight where it runs and if i ever have to take that pipe out, ill fab up a 2.5" pipe just for the added clearance.

I dont think small IC piping can lead to back pressure. All it will do is theoretically speed up the spool time--the time with which all of the pipes, intake manifold, and cylinders are "filled" with air.

Really, the motors ability (or inability) to eat the forced air is more of a restriction than IC pipe size.

Right out of the IC is 3" for about 3 foot or so, then it goes up to 3.5" for the last 2 feet as the pipe meets the throttle body.

Quick update guys.. car has just under 5000 miles on it which means almost 2000 on the turbo kit.

0 issues to report. I had the downpipes off 2 weeks ago and had a good look at the turbine wheels... no shaft play on these turbos and they show no signs of giving up any time soon!

Really stoked on the value this kit and turbos bring compared to the $$ spent.

Only problem is how fast im going through rear tires! Time for another set as we speak.

Thanks much! I think you’re right ... she’s a 150+ car with a halfway decent 1/8 mile.



Thank you...

Suspension, axles, driveshaft all 100% stock

Frame rails are lower than the turbos




Yeah... t brake is gonna be critical. I don’t think I’ll cross that path but 4 psi at launch would be AWESOME.

I tapped into the brake pedal..: I’ll have to go back and see which wire.

Send me a pm to remind me... I’m out of town for 2 days

 

[gimmie11s]

@gimmie11s I'm going to start condensing this into fewer posts for those who are interested in your build. I'm going to quote your progress and questions you answered. This way if you want to assemble a "how to" thread, the info is easier for you to grab. Great work by the way.

Are you a moderator? That’d be great and thank you!

 

[Performance nut]

Are you a moderator? That’d be great and thank you!

Not a mod but dont mind helping. I actually reached out to the manufacturer to see if they would be interested in making revisions.

 

[sigintel]

Not a mod but dont mind helping. I actually reached out to the manufacturer to see if they would be interested in making revisions.

@Performance nut, PM me?
I was going to contact CX as well.
@gimmie11s - I need to send you $100 bucks if I go this route just for everything you posted here.

Group buy?

 

[OhChuteRacing]

I'm a dealer for CX Racing and have purchased the hotside as well and plan to test it out on a 15-17 6R80 car. We are currently deciding if we should run comp oiless/borg sx-e's/CX 67's. If there's enough interest I'm sure we can work something out with them, my hopes was to assemble a basic "ready" to go kit and source everything together for people but once people hear CX racing the interest seems to stop.

 

[gimmie11s]

@Performance nut, PM me?
I was going to contact CX as well.
@gimmie11s - I need to send you $100 bucks if I go this route just for everything you posted here.

Group buy?

Haha no need. With a little fab work, this is a true 1000++ hp kit that can be installed by the home mechanic for half the $$ than the competition. Just happy to help.

For the price of the Comp oilless turbos, it doesnt make sense IMO. Sure they would make things easier, but my oiling system works FANTASTIC and i have 0 plans to mess with it.

Im in the middle of a motor build and i plan to push the 67's to 20psi next year somewhere around q2.

I'll be showing everyone that this kit will support ~1200.... or whatever my current fuel system allows LOL.

 

[OhChuteRacing]

After knocking down 1400 with 62/74 SX-E's on the shop drag car, I'm strongly leaning towards them. I'll probably use a turbowerx pump. Excited to see what she can do for you!

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