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Torinate

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I can’t see any drop-off looking at the logs. The local dyno can’t hold the car. Just produces wheelspin.
I’m working on converting the logs using virtual dyno which won’t be perfect of course, but it will at least give a decent indication of the curves involved. Really, that’s the important bit IMO.
I agree.

I’m not seeking the last HP out of it but want consistency and a “no worry” when driving it.

Bullet prof or as close to it as you can get with a supercharged mustang lol.

I appreciate all your input in this thread. And going from the Whipple directly to this really adds weight to your knowledge.

Thanks!
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ForYourOwnGood

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I can’t see any drop-off looking at the logs. The local dyno can’t hold the car. Just produces wheelspin.
I’m working on converting the logs using virtual dyno which won’t be perfect of course, but it will at least give a decent indication of the curves involved. Really, that’s the important bit IMO.

I had the same problem. We got a guy in the back seat and two of us in the trunk to keep it from spinning to get a good number.
 

Torinate

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Jeff T.

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2018 mustang gt a10 stage 1 edelbrock kit.

I am currently getting a p0430 code. I am assuming my catalytic converter is done. I found a TSB about this issue. So question is do I take my car to ford and see if they will replace them. Or do I say to hell with it throw headers on it? The TSB states they reprogram pcm when they replace the cats., which makes me nervous.
 

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Maybe one of you guys that’s more knowledgeable in PCM behavior can weigh in on something odd that’s been happening with my car:

I’ve seen this happen maybe 3 times, and I think it’s always at the bottom of a gear while cruising. I’ll notice motion out of the corner of my eye and look over at the nGauge and my lambda will be oscillating between like .85 and 1.15. There’s no change in the sound or feel of the car and it isn’t surging or acting oddly. If I push on the gas to accelerate it does it without hesitation but the gauge oscillation continues. If I push in the clutch, let it drop to idle, then continue driving it centers back on 1 and stops the numerical oscillation.

Any idea why it might be doing this, or why it would do it and I wouldn’t notice a difference in performance or feel? Unfortunately it happens so sporadically that I haven’t been able to see it in a log.
 

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Anyone have info on the modified fuel pump that comes with the 2015-17 stage 2? They made 2 different versions apparently one with a modified regulator and one with a stock regulator. Mine is the stock regulator.
 

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Finally getting the normal driving smoothed out thanks to Rob Shoemaker at Palm Beach Dyno. I only have the Stage1 kit on my '18 A10 'Vert with long tubes on 91 pump gas. I was expecting mid 600's and was surprised to be knocking on the 700 door. Thinking of a GT350 throttle body, BAP and maybe the bigger Stage2 Airbox. This is the first time that I've dyno'd Rob's tune. Also had a lot of help from Chris Groves of The Dyno Edge in Albuquerque. Impressive, I think, for such low boost...

dynorunShare_0 (2).png
 

Torinate

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Great numbers!

Curious what pulley is on it with the stage 1. 3.25 still? Boost is less than 9lbs Max. Long tubes are really helping maybe...

May want to rethink the GT350 TB as I’ve been told there’s lots of issues tuning it. Shame though, they’re so much cheaper than the the 90mm ford racing.

Stock injectors from the kit?
 

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Great numbers!

Curious what pulley is on it with the stage 1. 3.25 still? Boost is less than 9lbs Max. Long tubes are really helping maybe...

May want to rethink the GT350 TB as I’ve been told there’s lots of issues tuning it. Shame though, they’re so much cheaper than the the 90mm ford racing.

Stock injectors from the kit?
The pulley is whatever comes with the Stage-1 kit. I think that it's supposed to be 9psi, but the headers reduce back pressure enough to lower the boost some.

Stock injectors and fuel pump. I did "port" the stock airbox by removing the carbon filter and smoothing out all of the bosses, ridges and casting flash. I also opened up the blocked parts of the grill on the airbox side to improve flow and lower IAT's. The exhaust is stock but without cats and the suitcase resonator. Ford full synthetic 5w20.

For some reason, this engine has always responded better than average to modifications. I probably got lucky on the factory build. Happens sometimes...
 

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Great numbers!

Curious what pulley is on it with the stage 1. 3.25 still? Boost is less than 9lbs Max. Long tubes are really helping maybe...

May want to rethink the GT350 TB as I’ve been told there’s lots of issues tuning it. Shame though, they’re so much cheaper than the the 90mm ford racing.

Stock injectors from the kit?
The Edelbrock website quotes the stage 1, 18-19 kit as 3.25”.
Having said that, they also state that it will produce 13psi max. which doesn’t seem to add up.
 
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wsfrazier

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Finally getting the normal driving smoothed out thanks to Rob Shoemaker at Palm Beach Dyno. I only have the Stage1 kit on my '18 A10 'Vert with long tubes on 91 pump gas. I was expecting mid 600's and was surprised to be knocking on the 700 door. Thinking of a GT350 throttle body, BAP and maybe the bigger Stage2 Airbox. This is the first time that I've dyno'd Rob's tune. Also had a lot of help from Chris Groves of The Dyno Edge in Albuquerque. Impressive, I think, for such low boost...
Rob is finally making progress on my stage 1 kit tuning as well. Still not perfect, has some jerkiness and surging at early RPM when you tip into the throttle, but better than it was. Not exactly happy with it, but the car does scoot good when you lay into it, so he's got that going.

Not going to bother trying other tuners until I do fuel system and E85 conversion.

I need to try and get mine on the dyno now, 690 is really good and not expecting that at all. Stage 2 cars aren't even seeing that.
 

Jeff T.

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Finally getting the normal driving smoothed out thanks to Rob Shoemaker at Palm Beach Dyno. I only have the Stage1 kit on my '18 A10 'Vert with long tubes on 91 pump gas. I was expecting mid 600's and was surprised to be knocking on the 700 door. Thinking of a GT350 throttle body, BAP and maybe the bigger Stage2 Airbox. This is the first time that I've dyno'd Rob's tune. Also had a lot of help from Chris Groves of The Dyno Edge in Albuquerque. Impressive, I think, for such low boost...

dynorunShare_0 (2).png

Are your long tubes catted or catless??
 

mikengail

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Are your long tubes catted or catless??
Catless. They're the eBay Pypes Step-Up stainless steel clones that cost me $134. My installer thought that they were Pypes originals with black high heat paint on them. The Step-Up model name refers to the tubes being 1-3/4" at the port growing to 1-7/8" all the way to the collector. The mid pipe and the install were the most expensive parts of the exhaust. I replaced the suitcase resonator with a stainless steel H-Pipe and kept the stock mufflers.

No stripes, scoops, spoilers or anything else to suggest anything other than stock. The 305 tires on the rear might be a give away, but lots of people have wider tires on their car. I'm just another old fat guy with a five oh ragtop. Have already surprised a few Hellcats and ZL1's and hurt some feelings. Most of them are unfamiliar with the Eddelbrock and think that it's some kind of secret factory option that they didn't know. It does look like a factory install with the big side covers on. Lot's of fun...
 
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Kona 18

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Finally getting the normal driving smoothed out thanks to Rob Shoemaker at Palm Beach Dyno. I only have the Stage1 kit on my '18 A10 'Vert with long tubes on 91 pump gas. I was expecting mid 600's and was surprised to be knocking on the 700 door. Thinking of a GT350 throttle body, BAP and maybe the bigger Stage2 Airbox. This is the first time that I've dyno'd Rob's tune. Also had a lot of help from Chris Groves of The Dyno Edge in Albuquerque. Impressive, I think, for such low boost...

dynorunShare_0 (2).png
You can't run the gt350 TB on a 18+, the GT350 TB is analog, 18+ Coyotes use a digital TB. You would have to run something like a BBK 85/90mm TB if you want something larger in stock bolt pattern that is also a digital TB. That or pick up the 103mm TB, adapter plate and intake
 

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In case ya'll were curious on a side project I've been working on. While this may not be as beneficial to me since I already have the 113mm, the larger PMAS 120 uses a larger filter with more surface area so it doesn't restrict airflow like the Airaid one does.

Don't mind the beat up filter, this is a spare MAF housing that was donated to the cause

havent finalized anything with this new set up yet, I still need to decide whether I'm going to drill the MAF housing in order to add the PCV fitting or go VTA with the PCV to avoid drilling. I also need to figure out whether the PMAS heat shift will still fit, so need to get one ordered in order to check.



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