2019 Bang & Olufsen retrofit for 2015-2018 S550

[Jaync]

https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/dsr1/

This item (along with the F03 adapter) will likely be your best friend should you go after market.

Just looked on their website and it doesn’t look like that F03 adapter works with the 2019 with the 8” touchscreen.

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[OF5.0]

Just looked on their website and it doesn’t look like that F03 adapter works with the 2019 with the 8” touchscreen.

The AFO3 T-harness works with the DSR1 on a 2019 Mustang. When you set up the DSR1, the set-up software specifically asks if you are using the AF03 T-harness or not.

 

[Jaync]

The AFO3 T-harness works with the DSR1 on a 2019 Mustang. When you set up the DSR1, the set-up software specifically asks if you are using the AF03 T-harness or not.

Ok cool. Thank you. How do you like the dsr1 and what other speakers and amps did you get.

 

[OF5.0]

Ok cool. Thank you. How do you like the dsr1 and what other speakers and amps did you get.

I haven’t found the time to install everything, but I did update the DSR1 firmware and set it up. I’m debating three setups: 1) Veritas compression horns/midbasses/two JL Audio 10W3 subs with a JL Audio HD 900/5 amp, 2) JL Audio XR 653 3-way component set/two JL Audio 10W3 subs, or 3) Dynaudio Esotec 3-way component set/two JL Audio 10W3 subs. Each system choice has pros and cons. I just need to find time.

 

[ean611]

Ok cool. Thank you. How do you like the dsr1 and what other speakers and amps did you get.

FYI, the Rockford Fosgate T400X4ad is awesome, and is freaking tiny, making installation easier.

Edit: Just want to mention, JL amps are awesome, so no disparagement here. I just like making things easier.

 

[crowemag55]

I’m not interested in crutchfield or other aftermarket solutions.
Like the op asked, what’s involved in retrofitting the B&O components?

I'm pretty much of the same opinion.. When I bought the 2015, and 2017, the 401A pkg included the HD Shaker with Subwoofer model... The 2019 does not. I was going to get a '19 with B&O, but the car was a couple hundred miles away and was sold before my dealer could get it. When he asked if he should find another B&O model, I said I could do without, thinking the 401A would get the minimum stereo I could live with. I ended up with no HD Radio and no Sub and scratchy FM... My bad!! I know!! What I have now is a 9 speaker sub-par stereo...

-John
'19 GT Premium, PP1, Kona Blue, 401A, A10, Active Exhaust

 

[HextallS550]

The B&O install into our demo car was almost $1000 and it was quickly removed. It’s just not that great.

I recommend the DSR1 solution to most people that call.

 

[Shane361]

In my Truck I'm running two sets of JL Audio CW3 comps with a JL Audio 400 amp, two 10" Sundown Audio subs in a ported box with an Eclipse Amp all tied together with an Audio Control LC7i.

I'll run my Mustang similar with the highs and mids but already run a single 12" Sundown with 1000RD JL Audio mono amp. I suggest against a stock system...but some don't listen to music as loud or as clear as I like it. Then again some like much much more than I have.

My "Crutchfield" CW3's
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136C3650/JL-Audio-C3-650.html

My "Crutchfield" Mid/Highs AMP
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13699401/JL-Audio-JX400-4D.html

 

[crowemag55]

The B&O install into our demo car was almost $1000 and it was quickly removed. It’s just not that great.

I recommend the DSR1 solution to most people that call.

Okaayyy… So by that I guess using the DSR1 solution means, I can then add the amplifiers, speakers and sub of my choice? From what I've read the DSR1 is only a Digital Signal Processor correct? Also, I assume this solution let's me keep the current head unit with Sync 3?

The idea of working in tight spaces and doing these sort of changes really don't have much appeal for my back these days :-)

I don't suppose there's a simple way of just adding the Sub for now?

 

[ktp1598]

I have the 9 speaker system in my 2019 and I added a stock subwoofer. It gets a little pricey but I wanted that "out of the way" look, plus it's solidly mounted. If you have the blue plug behind the side cover on the right you can get power from that. You'll have to find a factory sub from a 2015 and up with the amplifier on the back and the mounting bracket. There's also a connector you'll need to plug into the amp, JR3Z-14A411-C. Use the one end to plug into the amp and you'll have to move 2 pins on the other end to plug into the blue connector for power. Those 2 pins (for power) won't be right from the factory on our 2019 cars so make sure to switch them. Then to get a signal I connected to the left rear speaker (which I replaced with a nice pair of Pioneer 3-ways) and went through an AudioControl LC2i line level converter for the signal. Used left side in and out and then both low pass filters (Harrison Labs FMOD 50 Hz low pass) in series to remove the higher frequencies going to the sub. It is involved but sounds much better with the new rear speakers and factory sub. Do a search for adding factory sub and that's where I got much of my information. It's the LONG thread and info is contained throughout. I posted more toward the end.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Harrison-Labs-FMOD-50Hz-LP-Low-Pass-Subwoofer-Electronic-Crossover/391428080961?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

[HextallS550]

Okaayyy… So by that I guess using the DSR1 solution means, I can then add the amplifiers, speakers and sub of my choice? From what I've read the DSR1 is only a Digital Signal Processor correct? Also, I assume this solution let's me keep the current head unit with Sync 3?

The idea of working in tight spaces and doing these sort of changes really don't have much appeal for my back these days :-)

I don't suppose there's a simple way of just adding the Sub for now?

The correct way to add a sub to a 9 speaker is to swap the DSP for a 12 speaker DSP, add the pins to the stock harness at the DSP and BCM and then change some as built data. Line out converters were a dumb idea in the 90’s and are still a dumb idea today. Ford gave us a gift with this generation of cars.
We’ve done several of the 9 to 12 conversions and I’m working on a 9 to B&O for a customer who is insisting he runs factory stuff. For people with DSR1 I typically recommend a 6 Ch JL Audio amplifier for the front 3 way

 

[ktp1598]

Maybe a dumb idea but was done cheap enough and sounds fine to me. I swapped out the DSP for the correct CP one and added the pins at the DSP plug. Everything worked but wasn't as loud and the Equalization was off. Maybe it was programming or something that I left out but my point was without having to repin something (not everyone can do that) this way will work just fine. Maybe a better way to put it would have been to say that's one way but this is the correct factory way.

 

[HextallS550]

Sorry, but I stand by my statement. I’ve been doing this stuff since 94-95 and LOCs are a terrible idea.
I’m not sure which data you used but if it’s set up right it sounds like stock. I’ve also added aftermarket amplifiers and subs using that set up as well for those who’re want more.
As for the difficulty, our instructions are crystal clear and many people who have never even modified a car have installed our products without issue. This modification doesn’t involve changing pins, simply adding them to vacant cavities. If someone did have an issue We provide all the tech support they need too.

 

[ktp1598]

I didn't know you had products for sale. That may very well have made my attempt much smoother. I still have my shaker amplifier (not installed) and the pins are still in the DSP. Let me know what you have and I may switch back out. The only reason I went back to the 9 speaker and added the sub the way I did was the front had way too much mids with that amplifier.

 

[HextallS550]

What we do is add a harness to the grey connector with Signal +|-, shield (very important) and amplifier enable. That signal runs to the rear and from there I can do either a factory style install or utilize an aftermarket sub/amp.
We then modify the config data in the ACM and kill the ANC/ESE and factory EQ. It’s not possible to change the EQ profile in the stock DSP though. But it works bette than the little stock amp/8” for most musical genres.
Certain aftermarket amplifiers don’t play nice with the 12 speaker DSP though because of the order in which everything is turned on. I’ve had success with JL HD, VX and XD as well as Hybrid Audio amplifiers.

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