What will it reduce my oil consumption?

[GT350-H6088]

I have a 2017 GT350, Manufactured on 9/2017 (H6088) I did not see any oil consumption until 3500 miles
it started at using 1 Qt every 500 miles, now I have 8000 miles and its using 1 QT ever 150 miles now.

I am reluctant to have the engine replaced with all the horror stories on bad dealer installations.
I have only tracked the car twice. I was told by the Dealer that the Forged pistons are the issue, they take longer
to heat up and expand. my question is why some don't use oil? are there issues with the Forged pistons?
Should I get Catch Cans, Will that work? or should I take the dealer route and have the engine replaced?

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[jvandy50]

Sorry man, but go make them put you a new motor in.

Unless you are just wanting to spend money out of pocket and you feel like building something cooler

 

[Hack]

I don't think your oil consumption has anything to do with forged pistons operating in colder temperatures. I've run quite a few miles in below zero weather with my GT350 and it didn't/doesn't consume oil. Something is wrong in your engine.

I would recommend having the engine replaced.

 

[MikeMM]

Yeah you should definitely go through the dealer to get your engine replaced. 1 quart every 150 miles is far from an acceptable level of consumption. From what I've heard, it's a serious pain in the butt but it seems it will be the only way to resolve the issue on Ford's dime.

 

[Demonic]

I'm not an expert, but I usually check for leaks before replacing the whole engine.

 

[Scoobs]

Mine was burning @ 1 litre every 500-700 km ( 300 - 430 miles ). Dealer scoped it and diagnosed bad valve seals on 2 cylinders. If your car is burning a quart every 150 miles there is something wrong in the engine. I'd take it in for a replacement, or try for a buyback from Ford. I had my engine replaced and it was not a big deal for my dealer who is an SVT dealer ( still exist in Canada ). I took it in on a Monday morning and had it back in my hands Wednesday afternoon.

 

[honeybadger]

Do you have the ability to do a compression test? I bet you have some leaky valves

 

[Tank]

Mine was burning @ 1 litre every 500-700 km ( 300 - 430 miles ). Dealer scoped it and diagnosed bad valve seals on 2 cylinders. If your car is burning a quart every 150 miles there is something wrong in the engine. I'd take it in for a replacement, or try for a buyback from Ford. I had my engine replaced and it was not a big deal for my dealer who is an SVT dealer ( still exist in Canada ). I took it in on a Monday morning and had it back in my hands Wednesday afternoon.

2 days for a new engine, they must have thier shit together...Congrats!

Curious - if the issue was definitively diagnosed as bad valve seals, why wouldn’t Ford consider just new heads, or in your case @Scoobs , just the side with the bad seals? Not advocating for anything but it seems extreme...

 

[Scoobs]

2 days for a new engine, they must have thier shit together...Congrats!

Curious - if the issue was definitively diagnosed as bad valve seals, why wouldn’t Ford consider just new heads, or in your case @Scoobs , just the side with the bad seals? Not advocating for anything but it seems extreme...

It actually only took them one day to pull and reinstall. Tech worked on it on the Monday from 9am - 9pm to get it done. Tuesday it sat at dealer to make sure nothing was leaking etc. Wednesday afternoon was the earliest that I was available to pick it up, otherwise I probably could have had it back on the Tuesday afternoon.

Definitely diagnosed as bad valve seals. They turned the crank and could see oil leaking past the valves in 2 cylinders and pooling on the piston heads, plus running down the inside cylinder walls. Otherwise scope showed no sign of any internal damage. I posted the actual work order and diagnosis in the blown engine thread but decided to delete all my posts in that thread when it went completely off track. Dealer said Ford would let them scope engine but would not let them do any repairs on the engine. Once the leaking valves were diagnosed Ford authorized a replacement engine. It appears that Ford does not want any dealers pulling these engines apart.

 

[Tank]

Thanks @Scoobs . Seems like you have a pretty good dealership to work with.
Regarding my question and your answer, I forgot all about the double secret, top security-type response from Ford with this engine...

Appreciate the info!

 

[svttim]

I have a 2017 GT350, Manufactured on 9/2017 (H6088) I did not see any oil consumption until 3500 miles
it started at using 1 Qt every 500 miles, now I have 8000 miles and its using 1 QT ever 150 miles now.

I am reluctant to have the engine replaced with all the horror stories on bad dealer installations.
I have only tracked the car twice. I was told by the Dealer that the Forged pistons are the issue, they take longer
to heat up and expand. my question is why some don't use oil? are there issues with the Forged pistons?
Should I get Catch Cans, Will that work? or should I take the dealer route and have the engine replaced?

Certainly not forged pistons. That's why pistons have rings. Your consumption is ridiculous. Unfortunately, your going to need that new motor. Have them put the forged oil pump internals while you have it out
And yes on the catch cans

 

[Stunt1o1]

Have your local dealership do a compression test and if it’s bad replace the engine.

 

[madlag]

I'm not an expert, but I usually check for leaks before replacing the whole engine.

Dude I was thinking this same thing lol.

For what it’s worth I built a hi perf GM engine (427) years ago and chose to go with non-traditional, non umbrella type Teflon valve stem seals. They were designed to “leak” a certain amount to ensure proper lube on the stems. As a result, i used quite a bit of oil. They also had a short life and required frequent replacement.

Having said all that, what sort of valve seals are in these engines? I’ve suspected for a while that if the oil wasn’t leaking out it was being burnt via the valve seals. Explains a lot.

 

[Sammy]

Having an engine replaced is really not a big deal. This is done all the time. There are a few things to consider. Talk to the service manager and make sure they take the engine out by the subframe, not out the top of the hood. This i how it went in the car and is the way it should come out. Second, insist on having the catalytic converters replaced. Mine were replaced on request with similar oil usage. Shop for dealer reviews as far as you are willing to drive. There should be a good dealer within 300 miles. Not an unreasonable distance for such a job.


PM me if you want to talk.

Sam

 

[madlag]

Another question, if you get a replacement engine the numbers no longer match... greatly reduce the value of car, no?

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