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Anyone blow a motor yet?

EgoBoost

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Sorry to hear that Wera750. Heads up to all, you NEVER want to put a load on a FI car at low rpms especially in 5/6 gear.
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EcoSwag1990

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Well atleast someone is willing to admit it. Know how much boost your tune was running?
 

ThunderHorse

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Sorry to hear that Wera750. Heads up to all, you NEVER want to put a load on a FI car at low rpms especially in 5/6 gear.
I'm new to boost as this is my first turbo car, can you clarify what you mean by this?
 

04SloSnake

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High torque at low RPM's = unintended holes in your block. It is true for any boosted motor.
 

EgoBoost

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I'm new to boost as this is my first turbo car, can you clarify what you mean by this?
Simply put, avoid lugging the engine. You know it's lugging when you floor it and you're not going anywhere. Downshifting is what should be done instead of being lazy and flooring it. High cylinder temps from aggressive tuning in lower rpm range will increase detonation. Combine that with possible bad gas and you'll bend rods or worse.
 

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Kjewer1

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I broke mine. I was leaning on the boost down low trying to sneak up on the limit (famous last words :D) and found it. In hind sight, I put a Tial BOV on it and on the first test drive the boost spiked to 30 psi. It seemed to take it, so I left it there. That night at the track it was down 3 mph, so it's possible the rod was bent early on. 3-4 runs into the night that piston came apart. The rod is still in one piece with the pin in it, but all that's left of the piston is pea gravel. Boost was 30 psi, the tune was pretty safe otherwise on E30, and doing some math on the logged data puts torque in the 440 range. Other motors have gone out in this range, so we weren't mad and don't really blame the motor for it. I knew what the risks were. I put a built motor in it and it's running again, so onward and upward. :)

Some pics of the carnage:



 
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Slow89

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I'll warranty mine if it goes boom but good to have an idea of where to keep it at.
 

Kjewer1

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I didn't bother warrantying mine. For one, it was my own fault. Secondly, I would just break the new stock motor the next week at the track anyway. I built a motor for it instead. Now I can lean on that bitch all I want.
 

Tune+

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Good work on that motor Kevin haha. I'm assuming the parts and torque plate I sold you worked well?
 

Kjewer1

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Yup everything is in. I should make a thread at some point, I got some pictures of the process.
 

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BrewCityBOOST

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http://stratifiedauto.com/blog/low-...the-mazdaspeed-disi-and-ford-ecoboost-motors/

Here is a good read for you about Lspi or low speed pre ignition!
Thanks for posting this. It is very good information and explanation for anyone curious about the topic.

I've always been careful to limit load via tuning in the high load and low rpm range, or the 'lugging' range to try and mitigate this. It's also extremely wise to utilize the LSPI maps in these ECUs and not effectively disabling them.
 

Tune+

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Agreed, LSPI table should be used accordingly with margin of error. Disabling them is pretty common with certain tuners, and it usually leads to catastrophic results. I utilize 100% of the factory ceilings, and adjust clipping as needed.
 

Kjewer1

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LSPI, as the name implies, applies to low engine speeds. Say, under 2500 rpm. Since we generally aren't looking for power that low, it's best to leave that part of all of the tables alone. Why a tuner would mess with things down there is beyond me. The same tables at WOT RPM however aren't concerned with LSPI, despite what they might be called. At that point they're just another of the dozens of factory limiters.
 
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Slow89

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I didn't bother warrantying mine. For one, it was my own fault. Secondly, I would just break the new stock motor the next week at the track anyway. I built a motor for it instead. Now I can lean on that bitch all I want.

If you dont mind me asking how much did that run you?
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