Procharger Stage 2 Install

[z06psi]

I would probably plumb 3 to where 4 is. I don't run the inlet anymore, just a filter, or run breathers, hmm.

That would introduce boost to the PCV. Anything behind the blower is boosted. That wouldn't be good.

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[gqneon]

My setup is exactly like this.

2. Front driver's side port is plumbed to the brake booster. Nothing else.

So, you have the driver side rubber hose next to the throttle body (the one that feeds the bottom of the ford vacuum tee) routed to the ford vacuum tee and then have the two outlets to it capped?

Od did you remove the hard plastic brake booster line and run it directly, somehow, to the driver side port and remove that large rubber hose and ford vacuum tee? I'm curious.

 

[Process]

That would introduce boost to the PCV. Anything behind the blower is boosted. That wouldn't be good.

Yep, you're right, I'd just do breathers.

 

[gqneon]

What size and type of breathers work and bolt on with hood clearance? Haven't tried that yet

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[Process]

What size and type of breathers work and bolt on with hood clearance? Haven't tried that yet

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JPC sells a set. So does Ford Racing.

 

[z06psi]

So, you have the driver side rubber hose next to the throttle body (the one that feeds the bottom of the ford vacuum tee) routed to the ford vacuum tee and then have the two outlets to it capped?

Od did you remove the hard plastic brake booster line and run it directly, somehow, to the driver side port and remove that large rubber hose and ford vacuum tee? I'm curious.

I removed everything Ford did (However if you are running IMRCs you might need those check valves). The brake booster itself has a check valve in it already for safety reasons.

I used a fuel line and it literally runs from the dirver's side TB port to the brake booster directly. Nothing else on it. No check valves, no vacuum manifolds, or Ts. Where it runs into the brake booster there is the 90 degree check valve there already.

On the back I had to step down the connection from 5/8" hose to the vacuum 1/4" line but again there is nothing else in there. It is a direct connection to the surge valve.

 

[gqneon]

Gotcha

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[Phils15GT]

I heard back from the shop installing the fuel system. From the power it made on 93 and torco, I am not sure I even need to swap to E85. I guess it will make things a little safer. I even purchased a smaller pulley. I was planning on jumping down to a 4.5 pulley but if the car is already making the power it is at 12lbs of boost, new pulley will make 16ish. Might be too much. The car on same dyno with IMRC issue and stock manifold made 560. Tune is now dialed in and had a boss intake, all else is the same.


Shop "I did four pulls tonight. The first one was around 620 rwhp and 440 RWTQ at 170 degree coolant temp. It likes to be hot the next three where all in the 195-205 coolant temp and all three rinds made good power almost all three runs identical with a best of 680.8 rwhp and 498.8 RWTQ. The car makes identical boost compared to last time but around 6k the boost starts to drop and is down about 1.5 pounds at 7.5k compared to last month. That intake breaths and really lets the boost in."

I haven't gotten the dyno graphs and exact boost numbers. Hoping to get the rest of the info today.

To fuel system or not?

 

[gqneon]

If you're happy with the power I'd say leave it. If you have the parts to get the E85 and Lund will tune it, go for it. But if your pushing 700 hp you better start thinking internal mods next, pump gears and crank sprockets etc. I'd like to see the graphs and know what timing advance you had to get 680rwhp on a 5" pulley on pump gas and torco. That's 70 more than mine made on race gas.

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[Phils15GT]

Power doesn't come on for a while, good thing when I floor it, it drops down to the sweet spot... most of the time. I am assuming if it was a manual car, it would be 700 wheel. I asked lund about timing, will see what he says but I believe it is around 18.

Boost related question??? The car seems to be making close to 13lbs at 7500rpm with no SC intake and a 5.00 pulley. If I was to drop down to a 4.5" pulley and only rev the car to 7200 instead of 7500, would that bring the boost/power on sooner? I was thinking 7200rpm max to keep the peak boost down as I think 7500 rpm and a 4.5" pulley would be 15-16lbs... a little high. Would that work?

 

[gqneon]

I have a 4.63" and make every bit of 13 psi at redline 7200. Probably 14 at 7500. Stock manifold, open IMRC.

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[Process]

I have a 4.63" and make every bit of 13 psi at redline 7200. Probably 14 at 7500. Stock manifold, open IMRC.

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Removing the inlet will increase boost, thats also probably why.

I'm seeing about 19.6 psi with the 4.135 pulley without an inlet, which it should only be rated for around 18.

 

[Phils15GT]

^^^ okay, makes sense. How does your dyno graph compare to mine regarding the power coming on earlier with smaller pulley?19lbs?? Jeez. Thing must be making big power.

 

[Process]

^^^ okay, makes sense. How does your dyno graph compare to mine regarding the power coming on earlier with smaller pulley?19lbs?? Jeez. Thing must be making big power.

it was like 904whp/722tq, was holding about high 30s psi in fuel pressure with the bap. I had to stop reving around 7300. I have the limiter set to 8000. Stock pump gears and sprocket.

Injector duty cycle was hovering around 90%. I feel ID1300 or ID1700 will be needed to run that pulley safely on E85 with a dual 465 pump return fuel setup.

It looks like this is where the D1SC runs out of breath on these cars, so IMO, one should upgrade to the F1 if you were to want to make over 825whp. Or you should put a wastegate on the D1 with this pulley as the torque comes in super fast.

 

[Phils15GT]

That's impressive. I am looking for the 750 wheel range through the auto. Should move out pretty good.

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