How reliable is the Coyote V8?

[GNS]

I've heard from several people (who have owned Mustangs in the past) that one of the virtues of the Coyote engine is how rock solid reliable it is.

Is there an article or something I can read to further educate myself on this? I'd like to know the details (technical and otherwise) as it will help to influence my future car purchase.

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[Old 5 Oh]

I have never seen an article on the subject, only hundreds of forum posts testifying to how solid the Coyote is. The 4.6 was a beast; 250K miles is not uncommon. The 5.0 builds on that with a lighter and more efficient cam drive and valvetrain. As long as you don't overstress the powdered-metal rods (weak link) with too much boost, I expect that a Coyote will last a very long time. I got mine with the 6R80 AT, another beast, for similar reasons. SHould be a completely bullet-proof drivetrain.

 

[GNS]

I have never seen an article on the subject, only hundreds of forum posts testifying to how solid the Coyote is. The 4.6 was a beast; 250K miles is not uncommon. The 5.0 builds on that with a lighter and more efficient cam drive and valvetrain. As long as you don't overstress the powdered-metal rods (weak link) with too much boost, I expect that a Coyote will last a very long time. I got mine with the 6R80 AT, another beast, for similar reasons. SHould be a completely bullet-proof drivetrain.

Basically, my purchase decision (in 2 years) will be between a turbo car, and a naturally aspirated car. The latter would be the Mustang GT, and it is an obvious choice compared to the offerings from other manufacturers. I object to paying a luxury tax (Audi, BMW, etc), I don't trust GM, and I'm not hot on the weight and styling of the V8 cars from Dodge.

I've been having some turbo issues lately on my current car, nothing serious, but enough to make me think twice about getting another car that has the same type of technology. For me, nothing else trumps reliability. I want to know that I can settle into the driver's seat, push the start button and the car WILL start every single time. It will drive perfectly normal, and once it is warmed up, I can push the HELL out of it and it will laugh at my feeble attempts and ask for more. It will do this every day, every year, without complaint as long as I also keep up on its routine maintenance. No plumes of blue smoke out the tailpipe, no random ticking noises, no crunching, grinding, or any of that B.S. Just straight up plain fun for years, and literally ROCK-solid reliability. That's what I value the most over anything else...

 

[bluebeastsrt]

I race often. I personally know a guy that strapped a Paxton blower on his 2012 Gt. Ran twice a week making 6-10 passes at Atco. Car would run high 10s@130ish. Guy beat the car like a red headed step son and never broke once. Never even used oil. He's since trade for an S550 and he's already beating the crap out of the new car. The Coyote and the automatic transmissions in these cars are almost legendary for the amount of abuse they'll take.

 

[CJ4life]

My understanding is that Ford has always been rather good at creating world-class motors. Naturally aspirated will, for the time being at least, always be a more stable platform than any forced induction system.

 

[madweazl]

I have never seen an article on the subject, only hundreds of forum posts testifying to how solid the Coyote is. The 4.6 was a beast; 250K miles is not uncommon. The 5.0 builds on that with a lighter and more efficient cam drive and valvetrain. As long as you don't overstress the powdered-metal rods (weak link) with too much boost, I expect that a Coyote will last a very long time. I got mine with the 6R80 AT, another beast, for similar reasons. SHould be a completely bullet-proof drivetrain.

Forged rods in the '15s.

 

[Ultrakla$$ic]

And forged crank right??



Its the MAIN reason I traded my gorgeous '13 Race Red GT for the '15 GT

 

[madweazl]

The crank has been a forged unit since introduction in the '11s. Apparently some tweaks on the '15 but it was good for 1500hp+ before.

 

[Teezlr]

Aside from "normal" oil consumption they seem to be as reliable as the most reliable engines of today!

Thats the only maintenance that I am experiencing, I found a letter from Ford stating that during first 10,000 miles the engine may consume up to a quart per 1,000 miles and after 10,000 miles it is normal to consume 1 quart per 3,000 miles(or between changes I can't remember exactly need to look it up again).

Mine has consumed 3/4 quart in the first 1,000 miles. I expect it to slow down as the mileage increases.

If you look at oil consumption polls you see that roughly 55% experience the need to add oil.

Then you must consider how many non enthusiast who own the 5.0 and never check the oil and will never realize that the engine is burning oil.

So it seems like a fair statement to say that the coyote burns oil, although some people do not experience it as much as others.

Is oil consumption related to reliability?

No, just check the oil every 1,000 miles.

If you didn't check the oil I'm not sure that it would even be a reliability issue, the engine holds 8 quarts.

You could probably go the life of the car 200,000 miles and never actually check it and never have any issues as long as you changed it regularly. And even then do you plan on keeping it for 200,000+ miles where engine rod bearing durability/reliability is a concern?

The End

 

[ridenfish39]

And forged crank right??



Its the MAIN reason I traded my gorgeous '13 Race Red GT for the '15 GT

You could have had rods made of balsa wood for as much as you drove your 13 and never had a problem

 

[oilfieldtrash]

You could have had rods made of balsa wood for as much as you drove your 13 and never had a problem

I've heard this stated a few times here. Just how much was this car actually driven?

 

[madweazl]

My '12 didnt consume much oil all. Always less than a quart by oil change time (usually 6000-7000 miles). I read of some crazy ones but at 1000 miles, there was no change. I just hit 1015 miles on the '15 and it hasnt used a drop that I can measure (right at the full line still). I down shift at every stop light/sign which is supposed to increase consumption but that hasnt been the case. No catch can installed.

 

[Ultrakla$$ic]

You could have had rods made of balsa wood for as much as you drove your 13 and never had a problem

:lol:

But it sure was purty!!!

 

[Chameleon]

9,200 miles with tune. Running hard.

 

[Grimace427]

Forged rods in the '15s.

The Coyote has had sinter-forged rods since the beginning. 2015 has the slightly thicker Roadrunner rods, which are still sinter-forged.

The crank has been a forged unit since introduction in the '11s. Apparently some tweaks on the '15 but it was good for 1500hp+ before.

The Coyote block becomes the weak link over about 900hp, where the cylinder liner fails and pushes into the water jacket. To get 1,500hp from a Coyote requires an upgraded block with a reinforced water jacket. The crank is indeed very stout and can handle some insane power numbers. Don't recall anyone needing to upgrade the stock crank other than record holders.

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