Drilled rotors wanted

[luc]

Good for you and yes my brakes look damn good on my car and they are better than factory or are you saying Willwood and Brembo just charge more money for no better stopping power?

Yes and no
I’m sure that they have better metallurgical properties than my no name blank rotor but,as an example, if a Brembo cost $ 250 and i can do 10 track days with it but my blank cost $60 and i can do 8 days, for me they are a much better deal
So yes, you’re paying for the name
Btw, many racers on this Mustang forum do like me with no issues at all
I’m not criticizing your choice of brakes, they do look very nice, it’s simply a matter of using the right tool for the job

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[HoldenSSVandGT350]

I have a few cars but to keep it on track and on Mustang, i have a 17pp1 that is a track only car that run a squared set of 305 track tires
I use the cheapest blank rotors that i can get from rockauto and use XR1 Cobalt front race pads
Since i have been racing/tracking since 1993, I do believe that i know a thing or 2 about braking
Btw, early in my racing days, i made the classic mistake of of using cross drilled rotors and i discovered very fast why they are a bad choice for hard use, as any rotors used in very severe duty, they start to develop small cracks but in a cross drilled rotor, each hole is a stress/starting point and they soon propagate from hole to hole
They are fine for the street

I made the same mistake back in the early ‘00s on my ‘02 Firebird Formula. Got crack propagation from the holes after just two weekends of hard use. They were nice rotors too, drilled/chamfered holes, cryogenic treatment and coated etc. The pads were good too, PF carbo-metallics. I went back to OEM style non-drilled made by DBA (disc brakes Australia) and no more problems.

 

[Golgo69]

Read my other comment and the one from @luc as well. Ceramic pads are for clean wheels and quietness. There is no free lunch with brake pads, you want sustained braking G and great initial bite and you will get dust. Period.

Cool. Definitely have cut the dust in half.

 

[Golgo69]

I want to go with the drilled and slotted rotor look on my upcoming brake job.
Just for the look, I know this won't increase my braking performance.
Who would you recommend as a source for the four rotors and pads?
2019 Bullitt

Well Ralph, you got some great info on this thread you started. 3 pages in a day and a half is pretty good discussion! That’s what I love about this site, very knowledgeable people who share great information!

 

[MSheets]

This is what NASCAR cup cars use on short tracks. This was at North Wilkesboro, NC 2 years ago at the All Star Race. They stay bright red the whole night as they brake. They also have massive amounts of dust when they take them off.

 

[Justpassingas]

Check out Brakeperformance. In a previous thread about drilled/slotted rotors another member mentioned them.

https://brakeperformance.com/product/performance-cross-drilled-slotted-brake-kit

 

[wingnutt]

Factory drilled rotors here with 85k on them and still going!

yes…for track use, drilled may not be your best option, but for the street they are just fine

 

[SHOdaddy68]

Probably OK for street use, though I've seen drilled rotors come apart on the track. Not pretty.....

 

[wingnutt]

Probably OK for street use, though I've seen drilled rotors come apart on the track. Not pretty.....

agreed…but clearly street use, according to the OP

 

[1 old racer]

I have used crossed drilled rotors for years. Never cracked a rotor til they were at or beyond their service limit, (and any rotor will crack as they get thin). The key to keeping crossed drill rotor living a long life is to use the cool down lap to cool the brakes down. I do my best not to touch the brake petal on the cool down lap. However I must admit that I am using a type 3 slotted router this time around.

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