Spacer question.

[Netman]

I installed my spacers tonight and have a question regarding the rears. I have a 2015 GT with the 19” performance package wheels and I installed the 20mm spacers on the rear. Do the stock studs have to be ground back a bit to use the 20mm spacers? I used 1“ up front and it seems fine there, but the rear looks a little close.

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[Firsttexan]

My 20mm rears didn't need it. 25mm on the front.

 

[1 old racer]

It will be close. The best way I know to make sure the studs are allowing you to fully seat the wheel is to place strips of paper between the wheel and hub between the studs and torque the wheel then remove the paper strips. if you can then the studs are too long. Two ways to deal with this. One is to cut the studs down. The other way is to use a 9/16th or 5/8 dia drill bit and C'Bore the pocket between the stud holes in the wheel. It is not as hard as this seams. Back when I had my PP1 wheels and spacers I chose this method.

 

[Netman]

The paper trick is a good idea. I’m reluctant to grind down the studs if needed. Drilling the pockets deeper is an alternative, how did that affect your wheel balance?

 

[1 old racer]

Not at all. Put some paint at the end of the studs and install the wheel. The paint will transfer to the locate the drill points. Center punch for drilling and wrap tape around the drill bit about a 1/4" to 3/8" from the tip to keep the holes the same depth. And drill away.

 

[Netman]

I’m guessing you used a bit bigger bit to allow for a little runout?

 

[Firsttexan]

It will be close. The best way I know to make sure the studs are allowing you to fully seat the wheel is to place strips of paper between the wheel and hub between the studs and torque the wheel then remove the paper strips. if you can then the studs are too long. Two ways to deal with this. One is to cut the studs down. The other way is to use a 9/16th or 5/8 dia drill bit and C'Bore the pocket between the stud holes in the wheel. It is not as hard as this seams. Back when I had my PP1 wheels and spacers I chose this method.

I didn't use this method to check. They just seated well. No symptoms. I assume they are fine. But the paper check is probably still in order.

 

[1 old racer]

One of my employees didn't us this method and thought he was fine but Complained that he heard a clicking noise. I checked and one of his spacers cracked in half. I had him jack up his car and were able to slide a small piece of paper between the wheel and spacer. He couldn't see the gap and was shocked that it was there. We removed the two spacer til he got new ones and then he did the c' boaring. It's been a few years and still all is good

 

[Firsttexan]

One of my employees didn't us this method and thought he was fine but Complained that he heard a clicking noise. I checked and one of his spacers cracked in half. I had him jack up his car and were able to slide a small piece of paper between the wheel and spacer. He couldn't see the gap and was shocked that it was there. We removed the two spacer til he got new ones and then he did the c' boaring. It's been a few years and still all is good

Good to know thanks.

 

[Netman]

Well, I gave the drill method a shot tonight. The first wheel took about 5 attempts to get the depth right. Once the wheel was torqued on and taken back off, you could see the impression from the stud. After I finally got to the point where I didn’t see an impression, I went a little deeper just to be sure. Second wheel was a breeze. There is no way you could run the 20mm spacers with the PP wheels without either drilling the pocket or grinding back the stud. I had to go much deeper than I thought I would have to, because of the taper on the drill bit.

 

[1 old racer]

Understand. And so did I but I didn't want you to do that right off the top. I don't know how much+/- the oem lug lengths are

 

[Firsttexan]

There is no way you could run the 20mm spacers with the PP wheels without either drilling the pocket or grinding back the stud.

Not in my case. I double checked. Mine are getting no interference with stock studs and 20mm. No marks on the wheels. Paper test tight.

The studs must vary .

 

[Netman]

They must. Mine protruded past the 20mm spacer at least 10mm.

 

[atlas10Spd]

It will be close. The best way I know to make sure the studs are allowing you to fully seat the wheel is to place strips of paper between the wheel and hub between the studs and torque the wheel then remove the paper strips. if you can then the studs are too long. Two ways to deal with this. One is to cut the studs down. The other way is to use a 9/16th or 5/8 dia drill bit and C'Bore the pocket between the stud holes in the wheel. It is not as hard as this seams. Back when I had my PP1 wheels and spacers I chose this method.

Hello I hope you still see this, can you send me a screenshot of the drill bits you used please? Did you use a drill press or just a handheld drill.

 

[1 old racer]

I actually used a hand held drill. All you are going to do is drill out enough material to allow clearance. Start by putting some paint on the tip of the wheel studs and reinstall them. Then remove the wheel and the paint will transfer to the spots that will be drill. Start with the 9/16 and drill about a 1/8" deep. Repeat the paint transfer step. iF necessary go a little deeper(but only a little). If the C'bore needs to be wider due to "drill walk" then clean out the C'bore with the 5/8" drill bit. A important note: Installing longer lug studs is by far the best and safest way to go.

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