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NGOT8R

NGOT8R

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I’ve decided to completely eliminate the possibility of my coolant and oil mixing. Im going to be capping off all the catch cans ports and switch to the jdm engineering engine breathers. I also will share some pictures of what the inside of my tank looked like.

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Great idea! I already have those breathers (been running them for several years NA). I wasn’t thinking outside the box on this one like you. I could have just capped mine too, but then again, with expansion and contraction from
heat cycles, as well as system pressure, the way mine looked, some of those pieces of weld would have broken free and circulated throughout the cooling system.

It looks like your weld is relatively flat from the pics and isn’t nearly as bad as mine, so you might be good.
 

AcceptableNebula

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This is what I’m doing to my Steeda bar to add some support to the bumper. Yours is shaped differently so not sure how crazy you’d have to get.

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NGOT8R

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Excellent workaround on the bumper support! How did you determine what length to make the factory support bar sections?
 

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Excellent workaround on the bumper support! How did you determine what length to make the factory support bar sections?
Went shorter on the passenger side enough to clear the bigger intercooler when I do that. Drivers side is right at the intercooler width as I needed it longer to hold my radar module. I either need to cut out the spot for my billet bracket I made to hold the radar or put a small extension on to catch the other end of the factory bracket.
 

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AcceptableNebula

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Appreciate the compliment @wingnutt

Here’s the bar finished with my idea. Hopefully it keeps the bumper up.

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AcceptableNebula

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For shitz n giggles I looked up the bumper bars and it looks like Steeda now includes 2 retainer brackets. Definitely a lighter weight solution but seems like a very small amount of surface area.

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NGOT8R

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I spent all day making crude cuts to my charge pipe and some spare 3.5” aluminum pipe with a little 7” circular saw. I had to remove the fence/guide in order to make the cuts, which meant that I had to hold the pipe and carefully rotate it 360* to score them straight and then come back with multiple slow passes to cut through. Not fun at all, not to mention dangerous. A couple of times the blade bit too deep, too fast and tried to grab the pipe 😬.

Moving on, I wasted a new 90* section of 3.5” aluminum pipe trying to get the angles right. In the end, it came down to using two 90* silicone couplers to get the exact angle of 72*, which is the angle on the Holley Lo Ram intake snout.

The silicone couplers have a tight 90* bend, whereas the aluminum 90* pipe has a looser bend.

The silicone couplers are just a mock up btw, but I would like to replicate this to get things perfect.

One of these days I’m gonna have to learn to weld. A good mill and lathe would also be nice to have.

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Another BL Fabrications coolant tank weld failure (in real time, on the Dyno).

Caution: Raincoat or umbrella required before watching this video.

 
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SheepDog

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Without a flange or bead at the top of this MAF pipe, you are going to have issues with the silicone tubing blowing off under boost, or is this a draw through MAF setup?

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Yes, it’ll have a short section of pipe added back with a rolled bead to keep the couplers from blowing off.

That’s just where I ended up last night after cutting away about 12” of material from the charge pipe.
 
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This is what I’m shooting for, but with tight raduised 90* pipes welded in place of the silicone couplers. I really would like to utilize my Wiggins clamp setup if at all possible.

Disassembling the tb in advance, in preparation for having the V-band flanges welded on.

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