How do they not test this for each and every one they make as a normal QC check? Isn't this thing like $500?More info. on this subject:
An internal divider leak in a
BL Fabrications (BL Fab) dual-chamber tank (often a coolant reservoir/oil catch can combo) is a critical failure because it allows cross-contamination between your cooling system and your engine's blow-by/oil vapors.
Symptoms of an Internal Divider Leak
- Contaminated Coolant: You may see an oily film, milky residue, or "sludge" inside the coolant side of the tank.
- Coolant in Catch Can: If you find significant amounts of watery, colored liquid (coolant) in the oil catch can side, the divider has likely breached.

I really think you would have been happier with the Hellion Street Sleeper kit. It's capable of 1000+hp without all of these challenges and you would still have air conditioning.
Thank you! Tbh, the BL Fab kit was one of the first ones that I saw and it really appealed to me. Unfortunately, it would prove to be quite the challenge to install, complete with lots of surprises (and not the good kind either). I trusted that it was as advertised, which was a mistake. Looking back, if I had it to do over again, I may have chosen a different kit and definitely talked to the guys running turbo S550s at the track to get their feedback on the various kits being used.Man, I genuinely appreciate your skill and determination in getting this project completed. You are doing an amazing job both working on the car as well as documenting everything. I really think you would have been happier with the Hellion Street Sleeper kit. It's capable of 1000+hp without all of these challenges and you would still have air conditioning.
Holleee Shit. No.I went ahead and windowed the BL Fab tank today, to see what in the heck was going on inside. To my surprise, I found an old small screw inside. Not a big deal compared to the weld inside. It looks like…I’ll just let you guys judge for yourselves, as to what it looks like. I can clearly see why the coolant side leaked over into the catch can side.
Furthermore, with heat and pressure fluctuations, perhaps one or more of the weld pebbles/slag could have dislodged over time and clogged up my coolant system.
Now let’s talk about how I made the window. I used a 4” hole saw and traced halfway around it, drew a straight line and traced halfway around the hole saw again to form an oval. I then drilled pilot holes and went to work with the hole saw and cut two circles, followed by a straight cut in the middle with my Dremel to complete the oval. Finally, I hand filed and beveled the window.
I don’t know what the type or thickness of the material is that was used, but I’ll need to find out, so that I can make a piece to have welded back in. Overall, I’d say it tuned out pretty good, minus the small spot where the hole saw jumped. That should be taken care of when it gets welded back up.
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
I’ve been wondering about this. I saw Beefcake had a plate welded across the bottom of his IC for additional support. Perhaps he was trying to correct bumper sag as wellIf you can weld better than BL Fab can weld tanks, I would suggest trying to at least get the ends of your factory bumper support on there. The bumper sags horribly with just a race support bar. On top of that, that welded 90 past the tangent of the bend shifts a ton of stress onto the very small foot print weld. That thing is only slightly better than not having one at all.
I’m addressing my saggy bumper this weekend since Steeda did the same thing, just slightly better welding on the tangent of the 90 so it’s more of an oval weld to the plate.
On the intercooler for sure. I was talking about the ends contacting the foam inner section of the bumper. It sags below the headlights. Cutting the factory support and incorporating it to the tubular bar could offer the bumper enough support to not droop at the headlights. Minor welding required.As for welding, I don’t have that level of experience to be able to pull that off without risking ruining the IC. Gotta leave the welding to those, who do it on a regular basis.
I think I’m following what you’re saying, but any pics and further explanation that you can add when you get started would be greatly appreciated.If you can weld better than BL Fab can weld tanks, I would suggest trying to at least get the ends of your factory bumper support on there. The bumper sags horribly with just a race support bar. On top of that, that welded 90 past the tangent of the bend shifts a ton of stress onto the very small foot print weld. That thing is only slightly better than not having one at all.
I’m addressing my saggy bumper this weekend since Steeda did the same thing, just slightly better welding on the tangent of the 90 so it’s more of an oval weld to the plate.