BL Fabrications 88/96 turbo install on 2019 Bullitt

[NGOT8R]

Lines are done! Tomorrow I will try and test them for leaks.

Next up will be to order some custom made -3AN stainless steel braided lines to tie everything together where there are flares fittings and give myself a little flexibility if needed.

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[NGOT8R]

Geez I haven’t even finished relocating my fuse box and now I’m being peer pressured into rerouting my brake lines correctly

I had been dreading getting into that, but tbh, I saw no other way around it. Can’t risk having a header rubbing through my lines.

 

[AcceptableNebula]

I had been dreading getting into that, but tbh, I saw no other way around it. Can’t risk having a header rubbing through my lines.

Yeah those were really tight.

 

[NGOT8R]

Mocked up the new hard lines, so that I can measure for the braided -3AN lines.

While it was a bit tricky getting the bends precise and flowing the way that I wanted them, I’m pleased with how well they turned out.

Praying for a tight seal and no leaks once they’re reconnected and the brakes are bled.

 

[NGOT8R]

Finally! I was able to pull the engine hoist today. No sooner than I put it away, did I discover that the driver’s side red puck on my Steeda motor mount was mushroomed and deformed.

I pulled the engine hoist back out, lifted the engine about an inch and a half and pulled the defective puck and replaced it. The photos captured just how bad it was. It actually became thinner and larger in diameter than the new one. Although the mounts were over 5 years old, they had very low mileage on them. Note: if you’re running these mounts, just keep an eye on them for deformation and address as needed. Thankfully I was able to do this in 25 min., as having the forward facing turbo headers makes this so much easier. LTH guys won’t be so lucky.

I was also able to get the tranny and safety loop bolted back up and check clearance between the headers and frame rails. There’s clearance, but not a whole lot (maybe 1/4” on the passenger side and 3/8 on the driver’s side.

 

[AcceptableNebula]

Finally! I was able to pull the engine hoist today. No sooner than I put it away, did I discover that the driver’s side red puck on my Steeda motor mount was mushroomed and deformed.

Although the mounts were over 5 years old, they had very low mileage on them. Note: if you’re running these mounts, just keep an eye on them for deformation and address as needed.

I bought a set of those from Steeda that were discounted because of a return. I just wanted the plate measurements so I could make my titanium ones before I took my car apart. The bushings were all squished out on that set too. Even squeezed some out thru the shaft hole. I didn’t like the concave/convex design interaction as the more push or pull towards the center, the more outward force is put on the center of the bushing.

 

[NGOT8R]

I bought a set of those from Steeda that were discounted because of a return. I just wanted the plate measurements so I could make my titanium ones before I took my car apart. The bushings were all squished out on that set too. Even squeezed some out thru the shaft hole. I didn’t like the concave/convex design interaction as the more push or pull towards the center, the more outward force is put on the center of the bushing.

Now yours looks far superior and better designed! Where did you find flat bushings of the same thickness?

 

[NGOT8R]

I wonder if those Steeda returns were put through the paces on a road race car? Mine are set up in the drag race configuration (red over black on driver’s side and the opposite on the passenger side).

 

[AcceptableNebula]

Now yours looks far superior and better designed! Where did you find flat bushings of the same thickness?

They are thicker. They are actually a high temp urethane bushing meant to replace the factory bushings in a Peterbilt . Allegedly during the regen cycle for the diesel, it’s common to have the factory bushings melt. These are good for like 300F iirc.

 

[NGOT8R]

They are thicker. They are actually a high temp urethane bushing meant to replace the factory bushings in a Peterbilt . Allegedly during the regen cycle for the diesel, it’s common to have the factory bushings melt. These are good for like 300F iirc.

Man, I sure wish I had your skillset and tools to create some of the things that you do. You always do a bang-up job and I really enjoy seeing your finished products.

 

[AcceptableNebula]

Unfortunately I can’t find those Steeda mounts. I must’ve tossed them. Could’ve been a good retrofit test pilot.

 

[NGOT8R]

Unfortunately I can’t find those Steeda mounts. I must’ve tossed them. Could’ve been a good retrofit test pilot.

Dang! That would have been nice.

 

[Joshinator99]

Unfortunately I can’t find those Steeda mounts. I must’ve tossed them. Could’ve been a good retrofit test pilot.

So when are you making billet titanium ones from scratch…?

I’m only half kidding…

 

[NGOT8R]

Di injectors are in. The Mike Thomas Fabrications vacuum manifold mount had to be modified, as the threaded inserts that came preinstalled in it, probably had a 1/16 of an inch bite into the aluminum and as soon as I started tightening the bolts, they popped right out. I installed new M6 stainless steel rivnuts in it and used some leftover ARP hardware to mount it. It’s looking more and more like a motor now.

I hap planned to get started on my eboost2 controller, but was surprised to see that they sent plastic tees and fittings with it. I don’t trust those for durability, so I’ll need to buy brass ones.

Spark plugs NGK 6510s are also in (gapped at .023).

 

[NGOT8R]

More clearance issues. As of right now, it appears to be just the charge pipe to throttle body, which I expected because the Bullitt and M1 intake manifolds angle upward and the Holley has a 72* down angle. This was one of the biggest fabricating jobs that I expected to have to get done.

Note: The charge pipe also fits right inside of the Soler Performance ported Bullitt TB. I have some more thinking to do .

The DeltaPAG 14” fan fits well, but it is tight (maybe 1/8” of clearance) between the shroud and the turbo compressor housing (again, to be expected with the huge 88MM turbo).

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