Tell me about tuning the EB

[Buldawg76]

If you were successful in going from the FP tune to a Cobb tune it would write the FP tune as the stock tune in the Cobb so still would not have ability to go back to stock except by paying a dealer.

BD

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[Wolfys11]

When you tune, you always want a stock tune so the tuner device saves your stock configuration, as well as uses the stock configuration as the base.

Its possible the modified calibration being used as a base can cause issues, anything not overwritten by the new in this case cobb tune will stay as is, not stock, and that can cause issues.

Lets say for example your fp tune changes cat protection turned off, your cobb tune doesnt touch that parameter, now its possible your cobb tune will have cat protection off. With some other example that parameter can blow an engine as the cobb tune isnt tested with that other change

Basically not worth testing to see if you can. Flash to stock then to another tuner device always

 

[S550HPP]

For the risk free results FORD tune delivers to standard EB I would just do that, add Garrett IC, Airraid tube and call it a day. Your traction control will work hard and tires won't last long even in normal mode with no burnouts.

Smooth power delivery from bottom on up pure joy. Almost like BMW I6

 

[GJarrett]

...The motors are safe up to 400whp, blocks up to 500whp. After that you need a 2.0 block and make it a 2.3L or 2.5L...

I would think long and hard before building 500whp on a stock block..... IMO its life expectancy would be two WOT runs. Maybe one.

 

[Wolfys11]

I would think long and hard before building 500whp on a stock block..... IMO its life expectancy would be two WOT runs. Maybe one.

It would be fine until it cracks. To support more than 500, you need a 2.0 block as the 2.3 cracks at the 2nd or 3rd cylinder, i forget which one

 

[MD18EcoStang]

It would be fine until it cracks. To support more than 500, you need a 2.0 block as the 2.3 cracks at the 2nd or 3rd cylinder, i forget which one

Stick with 499.
Seriously, though, I have no interest in discovering what the magic number is for a stock block, but I personally would not be comfortable with too much over 400. But, that's just me.

 

[Wolfys11]

Stick with 499.
Seriously, though, I have no interest in discovering what the magic number is for a stock block, but I personally would not be comfortable with too much over 400. But, that's just me.

Its widely known stock interals will hold 400whp and block 500whp

But you are right, get a 5.0 instead

 

[MD18EcoStang]

Its widely known stock interals will hold 400whp and block 500whp

But you are right, get a 5.0 instead

Sure... widely known... not buying that, particularly for the 500 WHEEL HP part. That would be around 700 at the crank. (for the money needed to buy a new motor)

 

[Buldawg76]

Its widely known stock interals will hold 400whp and block 500whp

But you are right, get a 5.0 instead

Why don't we ask for all that have 500 WHP from their EcoBoost's that are still driving them to report in and give us their experience be it good or bad on how many miles they have since tuning for 500 WHP and how they actually use the vehicles.

I am betting we will be lucky to hear from 1 or 2 at most.

Just saying I don't see either 15-early 2020 block or even a post 2-3-2020 with cross drilled block holding up very long at those numbers.

BD

 

[Wolfys11]

1st of all gentlemen, its up to 500whp. Not 500+

Second of all, if you want a guarentee reliability, you should always be below the number, so 475whp for safety margin

Anyways, people run 700whp on 2.0 block bored to 2.3 ecoboost motors, or do 2.5l stroker kits. Its duable and reliable.

Obviously not reliable as stock but reliable for what it is.

Instead of crying that oh id like to see that, go do some research. Ive been there and done that, i owned a 390whp 480whtq ecoboost on pump gas stock turbo myself, put 27k miles on it issue free. Nobody believes me but i have the dynograph to prove the power.

Either way, the point is the engine is great for tuning and all it needs is research, good parts, good tune to make good reliable power

 

[Buldawg76]

1st of all gentlemen, its up to 500whp. Not 500+

Second of all, if you want a guarentee reliability, you should always be below the number, so 475whp for safety margin

Anyways, people run 700whp on 2.0 block bored to 2.3 ecoboost motors, or do 2.5l stroker kits. Its duable and reliable.

Obviously not reliable as stock but reliable for what it is.

Instead of crying that oh id like to see that, go do some research. Ive been there and done that, i owned a 390whp 480whtq ecoboost on pump gas stock turbo myself, put 27k miles on it issue free. Nobody believes me but i have the dynograph to prove the power.

Either way, the point is the engine is great for tuning and all it needs is research, good parts, good tune to make good reliable power

No one stated 500+ WHP just 500WHP that you stated the block would handle; the open deck blocks will not hold up to 500 WHP for long.

The 2.0L and 2.3L blocks are both the same bore only the stroke is different so the 2.3L is already a stroked 2.0L by use of stroked crank and longer rods so no need to bore the 2.0L block.

390 WHP and 480 WTQ is a long way from 500WHP so would agree at those numbers the engine should be still reliable.

I have done research and built many engines for over 50 years so have experience as well. if you want reliability at 500 WHP from the 2.3L you need to start with a closed desk 2.0L block and use post 2-3-2020 internals or go with aftermarket hipo internals for even more insurance. The pre 2-3-2020 internals are known for weak rods and cranks. Also lose the balancer that's another weak link in the design.

BD

 

[Wolfys11]

No one stated 500+ WHP just 500WHP that you stated the block would handle; the open deck blocks will not hold up to 500 WHP for long.

The 2.0L and 2.3L blocks are both the same bore only the stroke is different so the 2.3L is already a stroked 2.0L by use of stroked crank and longer rods so no need to bore the 2.0L block.

390 WHP and 480 WTQ is a long way from 500WHP so would agree at those numbers the engine should be still reliable.

I have done research and built many engines for over 50 years so have experience as well. if you want reliability at 500 WHP from the 2.3L you need to start with a closed desk 2.0L block and use post 2-3-2020 internals or go with aftermarket hipo internals for even more insurance. The pre 2-3-2020 internals are known for weak rods and cranks. Also lose the balancer that's another weak link in the design.

BD

Agreed on the balancer
Its also ~17 lbs rotational

 

[MD18EcoStang]

@Buldawg76 For the record, those were NOT my words!

 

[MD18EcoStang]

1st of all gentlemen, its up to 500whp. Not 500+

Second of all, if you want a guarentee reliability, you should always be below the number, so 475whp for safety margin

Anyways, people run 700whp on 2.0 block bored to 2.3 ecoboost motors, or do 2.5l stroker kits. Its duable and reliable.

Obviously not reliable as stock but reliable for what it is.

Instead of crying that oh id like to see that, go do some research. Ive been there and done that, i owned a 390whp 480whtq ecoboost on pump gas stock turbo myself, put 27k miles on it issue free. Nobody believes me but i have the dynograph to prove the power.

Either way, the point is the engine is great for tuning and all it needs is research, good parts, good tune to make good reliable power

Glad we all agree now... You have to build a 500whp 2.3 EB Mustang. I totally believe your 390 figure. I'm planning on taking mine beyond that, and will be buying a built block for that purpose. Not going through the effort to put upgraded internals into that stock open deck design just to find out if it will hold up to 500whp. I've not dyno'd my stock block, but the Cobb "estimate" has been as high as 350 in cooler weather and usually around 335.

 

[Wolfys11]

Glad we all agree now... You have to build a 500whp 2.3 EB Mustang. I totally believe your 390 figure. I'm planning on taking mine beyond that, and will be buying a built block for that purpose. Not going through the effort to put upgraded internals into that stock open deck design just to find out if it will hold up to 500whp. I've not dyno'd my stock block, but the Cobb "estimate" has been as high as 350 in cooler weather and usually around 335.

Cobb stage 2+ is about 350whp yea. And yes anything abover 400whp is risky without a piston rod replacement.

Its very tune dependant. Some will blow at 350 with a crap tune. Its hard for this platform as not many tuners exist that exclusively tune this platform well. Tunedbynishan used to be the best of the best, thats how i got my high hp figure from 93 stock turbo, but he doesnt do tuning anymore unfortunately

Id recommend the 2.0 block conversion anyways if building the motor, i know the block will hold to 500whp and the stock rods pistons to 400whp as speedperformance shop does these combos super often and thats the limitd they recommend.

Id also recommend to swap to a mustang gt if looking for more than 400whp anyways because its not worth the money to do an ecoboost to 500whp up, unless you specifically want a 4cyl/ecoboost setup at that high hp

The gen 3 coyote will hold 900whp reliably, no work done to the motor inlcluding stock oil pump gears. Just pick a fuel system and boost adder, and exhaust

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