Don’t run a burble tune

[Supturk]

So I’ve been having some weird idling / driving issues with my 10 speed, and I was curious to see if anyone could help me out. I’m tuned by 2 different companies, one of which being Lund. The past 3-6 months I’ve been using the other tuners files.

On his tunes he removed the rev limiter on the car, and also provided me with a pretty aggressive burble tune. I noticed the car progressively started driving worse more and more each time I’d drive it.

On one occasion it threw a series of codes:

P2008
Intake Manifold Runner Control Circuit/Open (Bank 1)

P2017
Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit High (Bank 1)

P2022
Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit High (Bank 2)

I cleared those codes, and re-flashed the car. They never came up again. Weeks later, while doing some pulls the car went into limp mode, threw a wrench, and a CEL. This time it gave me code:

P2119
Throttle Actuator A Control Throttle Body Range/Performance

I took it to the shop, and they replaced my throttle body to try to fix the issue. However, the idling/driving issues still persist. I’ve completely switched back to my Lund tune, and at no point on those tunes did I ever experience any of these issues. The car won’t throw any codes now, but it’s still having issues.

When starting it:

• drops idles
• Idles really rough (making the car shake a little)

When driving it:

1. the car hesitates to shift (especially from 1st to 2nd)
2. Feels significantly slower
3. Will occasionally hold revs, and then shift

Up until recently the car never did any of these things. I’m aware 10 speeds experience skip shift while driving which is completely normal, but I’ve now owned and driven only 10 speed mustangs for the last 5 years. The car definitely has something wrong, but with no codes my local shop said they can’t really diagnose anything. Not only that, but I’ve sent countless data-logs to Lund and they say each time they don’t see anything wrong.

If someone could help me in any way I’d really appreciate it.

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[shogun32]

just go back to stock tune. reset the KAM, reset the transmission, reset the crank position.
If that isn't flawless for a month, you have something are more thorough shop needs to investigate.

 

[junits15]

go back to stock and verify the issue, when you say aggressive how aggressive is it? More than stock bullitt?

 

[Angrey]

Wait, so forcing the motor to behave abnormally so that it sounds "cool" isn't good for it? The hell you say.

 

[MAGS1]

Wait, so forcing the motor to behave abnormally so that it sounds "cool" isn't good for it? The hell you say.

Never understood the burble tunes. For the reason you stated and the fact that it just doesn’t sound good IMO. But to each their own.

 

[SSTANGG]

I have the pp1 with active exhaust and in sport or track shift+exhaust mode it definitely burbles on decel or when you let off the throttle. No tune needed.

I enjoy the hell out of it. But it's relatively subtle.

Had a 335is with performance exhaust and a tune back in the day that sounded like I was setting off firecrackers on the most aggressive setting. It (shockingly) ate through its .

I am glad the mustang doesn't do that, it's a bit much.

 

[Supturk]

just go back to stock tune. reset the KAM, reset the transmission, reset the crank position.
If that isn't flawless for a month, you have something are more thorough shop needs to investigate.

I’ve already done all of those things, and the car is still behaving the same.

 

[Supturk]

go back to stock and verify the issue, when you say aggressive how aggressive is it? More than stock bullitt?

It was aggressive enough to shoot flames when decelerating. I’m unable to go back to my stock tune as I have IMRC lockouts aswell as a JLT intake.

 

[Ben James]

Sucks that you're having troubles with the tune. A couple of things to quickly check;

- Check JLT washable filter has been secured properly (not loose). On my car, I found a sudden problem with idle and running rough was caused by the actual filter becoming loose (due to not being secured to the intake tube properly).

- Check battery voltage (on interior display setting 'gauges' you can select to see the battery voltage). I've found that you can get strange hesitation and fault codes when the battery is starting to give out. If you can see large voltage changes occurring during driving it can indicate the battery is starting to show its age and will likely start to cause indirect issues. in my case I could still start the car relatively easy, so I thought it was fine, but in actual fact the battery was unable to supply large loads of amperage at times the vehicle needed it. This also caused the vehicle to appear 'sluggish' as it was employing the alternator a LOT more to compensate for the poor battery performance. Another issue that was resolved was that the fuel pump was (previously) unable to supply the correct pressure required, resulting in a sluggish performance drop. A new battery fixed it.

A more costly problem could be that the catalytic convertors (if fitted) have failed and caused a partial blockage maybe?


Make sure to post up your findings as often we see a lot of people solve problems like this but forget to keep us updated!

 

[shogun32]

If you're shooting flames then yeah your cats may well be melted. And o2 sensors destroyed

Go back to lund and lean on their world class customer service, and get a stock tune modified just enough to handle the Jlt.

Or go back to stock tune and rip the silly JLT out.

 

[Supturk]

Sucks that you're having troubles with the tune. A couple of things to quickly check;

- Check JLT washable filter has been secured properly (not loose). On my car, I found a sudden problem with idle and running rough was caused by the actual filter becoming loose (due to not being secured to the intake tube properly).

- Check battery voltage (on interior display setting 'gauges' you can select to see the battery voltage). I've found that you can get strange hesitation and fault codes when the battery is starting to give out. If you can see large voltage changes occurring during driving it can indicate the battery is starting to show its age and will likely start to cause indirect issues. in my case I could still start the car relatively easy, so I thought it was fine, but in actual fact the battery was unable to supply large loads of amperage at times the vehicle needed it. This also caused the vehicle to appear 'sluggish' as it was employing the alternator a LOT more to compensate for the poor battery performance. Another issue that was resolved was that the fuel pump was (previously) unable to supply the correct pressure required, resulting in a sluggish performance drop. A new battery fixed it.

A more costly problem could be that the catalytic convertors (if fitted) have failed and caused a partial blockage maybe?


Make sure to post up your findings as often we see a lot of people solve problems like this but forget to keep us updated!

I actually just replaced my battery about 2 weeks ago, so that’s likely not that issue. I’ll still watch the voltage though to see if it’s behaving how you said. However I did recently have the intake put back on, so that likely could be the cause of my problems so I’ll check that out for sure. I appreciate your help, and I’ll be sure to update the thread if and when I pinpoint the issue!

 

[Supturk]

If you're shooting flames then yeah your cats may well be melted. And o2 sensors destroyed

Go back to lund and lean on their world class customer service, and get a stock tune modified just enough to handle the Jlt.

Or go back to stock tune and rip the silly JLT out.

I’m catless, and I’ve yet to get any codes thus far related to my O2s. I’ll try and see if they can give me a more basic tune, and maybe that’ll fix the issue.

 

[junits15]

It was aggressive enough to shoot flames when decelerating. I’m unable to go back to my stock tune as I have IMRC lockouts aswell as a JLT intake.

That's tough, you could theoretically swap the stock intake and run the stock tune again. It should still run but will throw codes for the IMRC.

However you have IMRC actuator codes and IMRC lockouts installed. That's an interesting connection. Are the lockouts installed right?

For what its worth "it shoots flames" is quite different than "burbles" lmao, but in either case it is hard on the motor. Some people claim to get years of no issues and others have your story, aggressive pop tunes are just risky. The risk is usually to cats, and you don't have cats. Hmmm...I'm going to bet that the pop tune isn't the issue but that's a total guess.

 

[Supturk]

That's tough, you could theoretically swap the stock intake and run the stock tune again. It should still run but will throw codes for the IMRC.

However you have IMRC actuator codes and IMRC lockouts installed. That's an interesting connection. Are the lockouts installed right?

For what its worth "it shoots flames" is quite different than "burbles" lmao, but in either case it is hard on the motor. Some people claim to get years of no issues and others have your story, aggressive pop tunes are just risky. The risk is usually to cats, and you don't have cats. Hmmm...I'm going to bet that the pop tune isn't the issue but that's a total guess.

That’s a good point I didn’t catch that. I forget sometimes what IMRC actually stands for so it didn’t even cross my mind I’ll take a look at those too to see if maybe they need to be replaced or re-installed. From my understanding “burbles” are caused by creating small misfires in the engine. The larger the misfire the more likely it is to create flames which in my case, were way too strong.

 

[Supturk]

Just an update on the issue. Turns out my intake filter was filthy, and that seems to sort of help some of the idling issues I was having. However, I’m still have drivability issues.

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