No heating

[GR11M]

If the gears got out of alignment, that means the plastic gears are starting to wear and it'll fail again. Just food for thought.

Maybe, spose only time will tell.

I'm hoping they both became unaligned while I was doing work on my car over several months, where the battery was constantly disconnected and running out of juice. I don't often use the heating as the car naturally gets warm. I didn't use it this winter as it didn't work and I didn't drive much, last winter my car wasn't driven due to being on axle stands; so it would have been the winter before since it was last used.

I might add a pair onto my next shipment from the US, as they're only $25 dollars each. I just phoned Ford for the LuLz and they want £88 (~$107) each

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[Slopoke]

Maybe, spose only time will tell.

I'm hoping they both became unaligned while I was doing work on my car over several months, where the battery was constantly disconnected and running out of juice. I don't often use the heating as the car naturally gets warm. I didn't use it this winter as it didn't work and I didn't drive much, last winter my car wasn't driven due to being on axle stands; so it would have been the winter before since it was last used.

I might add a pair onto my next shipment from the US, as they're only $25 dollars each. I just phoned Ford for the LuLz and they want £88 (~$107) each

It's a known problem. F150 trucks have the issue, Fiesta's have the issue, Mustangs have the issue. It all starts out as the actuators making a clicking noise, then failure. your actuators have already failed once. It'll happen again. In the end, you'll end up with those two that misaligned, either mis align soon, or fail. Your money, your choice

 

[GR11M]

Just as well Springs around the corner and upgrade season is nearly upon us, as the passenger side actuator appears to already be not working.

 

[Nodster]

@GR11M I have a similar issue. Car has been up on stands for about 2 weeks whilst doing the Supercharger. Battery was flat and I tried to start the car, and had the dash go crazy and loads of clicking sounds. I've also dropped and replaced my coolant, but everything else seems to be working correctly. Car gets up to temp OK and coolant is circulating but the heater at max is still cold. Could it be these actuator things that you mention? How easy are were they to replace (is there a guide?) or should I just go ask Ford to sort it?

Cheers.

 

[Gregs24]

@GR11M I have a similar issue. Car has been up on stands for about 2 weeks whilst doing the Supercharger. Battery was flat and I tried to start the car, and had the dash go crazy and loads of clicking sounds. I've also dropped and replaced my coolant, but everything else seems to be working correctly. Car gets up to temp OK and coolant is circulating but the heater at max is still cold. Could it be these actuator things that you mention? How easy are were they to replace (is there a guide?) or should I just go ask Ford to sort it?

Cheers.

I'm sure he will respond but the actuators are flaps in the airflow - the matrix should still get hot?

Sounds like an airlock to me?

It wouldn't surprise me if there isn't some form of actuator re-learn program in IDS, even cars from 20 years ago sometimes had this sort of thing?

 

[Nodster]

I'm sure he will respond but the actuators are flaps in the airflow - the matrix should still get hot?

Sounds like an airlock to me?

It wouldn't surprise me if there isn't some form of actuator re-learn program in IDS, even cars from 20 years ago sometimes had this sort of thing?

Thanks. Yeah I'm hoping it is just an airlock too. It was just the clicking sound that had me worried but might be unrelated. I asked this in my other thread I have going but are these the heater hoses for inlet and outlet I should look at squeezing perhaps?

 

[GR11M]

Check the coolant lines going in and out of the matrix are hot, if they're not then it could be an air lock. The actuators make a click noise when you turn on the ignition because they've lost their location, the motor is trying to turn the cogs further than they can go. You can test whether the actuators are at fault by manually opening and closing them - see my diagram further up for their locations.

I've still not replaced mine, Ford UK want 3x the US price and in the US they're on back order.

 

[Nodster]

Check the coolant lines going in and out of the matrix are hot, if they're not then it could be an air lock. The actuators make a click noise when you turn on the ignition because they've lost their location, the motor is trying to turn the cogs further than they can go. You can test whether the actuators are at fault by manually opening and closing them - see my diagram further up for their locations.

I've still not replaced mine, Ford UK want 3x the US price and in the US they're on back order.

Cheers. Are the coolant lines the ones I've highlighted? Just trying to get my head around what is located where or I'll be on for days guessing haha. I'll listen out for any clicks when I turn on the ignition, I don't believe I heard any doing just that process - just when I had the low battery and everything went a bit crazy I heard loads of clicks then.

 

[GR11M]

My battery had been removed quite a lot too before I realised mine had failed, so I don't know if this may be the cause.

These are the coolant lines to check they're hot.

5 & 6 are the actuators that are failing on mine, they're both the same part number.

Replacing them is easy, just a few screws but they're in an awkward location like the cabin filter.

 

[Nodster]

My battery had been removed quite a lot too before I realised mine had failed, so I don't know if this may be the cause.

These are the coolant lines to check they're hot.

5 & 6 are the actuators that are failing on mine, they're both the same part number.

Replacing them is easy, just a few screws but they're in an awkward location like the cabin filter.

Thanks so the coolant lines are actually metal and not silicone. No way I can squeeze those then. My bro has a steep drive I wonder if I park it on that and take the cap off and let the car run if that would help at all. Something to try! Or dare I just drive around with the coolant cap off...

 

[raptor17GT]

Thanks so the coolant lines are actually metal and not silicone. No way I can squeeze those then. My bro has a steep drive I wonder if I park it on that and take the cap off and let the car run if that would help at all. Something to try! Or dare I just drive around with the coolant cap off...

do NOT drive about with the coolant cap off lol. Just dont. Steep Driveway (pointing uphill obv) sounds a safer option. One watching the coolant level with the cap off, another watching temperature gauge ready to shutdown the engine if temp shoots skyward

 

[Nodster]

do NOT drive about with the coolant cap off lol. Just dont. Steep Driveway (pointing uphill obv) sounds a safer option. One watching the coolant level with the cap off, another watching temperature gauge ready to shutdown the engine if temp shoots skyward

Haha yeah I was joking. Wengered wants me to go out for a quick data log so I'll take it for a short drive later and then check the coolant when I get back.

 

[raptor17GT]

Haha yeah I was joking. Wengered wants me to go out for a quick data log so I'll take it for a short drive later and then check the coolant when I get back.

i hoped you were joking but one never likes to assume

 

[GR11M]

That's a fuel line you're looking at, it's behind that, the light orange plastic connectors going into the firewall. If the engines up to temp, you'll definitely tell if they're hot.

Thanks so the coolant lines are actually metal and not silicone. No way I can squeeze those then. My bro has a steep drive I wonder if I park it on that and take the cap off and let the car run if that would help at all. Something to try! Or dare I just drive around with the coolant cap off...

 

[Nodster]

That's a fuel line you're looking at, it's behind that, the light orange plastic connectors going into the firewall. If the engines up to temp, you'll definitely tell if they're hot.

Ahh. I knew that. lol

Good news is the short drive this evening for data logging cleared the airlock. Woo. I have hot air once more. It might have helped that the road was on an incline. But going to let car cool off and check the levels again tomorrow. Thanks for all the help!

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