Battery Tender Installation, Light Flicker and Fuel Pump Cycle

[Johnny Rockit]

Thanks for the replies. Cannot wait to spend some time in the drivers seat. The learning curve is steep and I am stepping way out of my element so it is going to take a while.

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[vdngo]

I connected my charger/tender cable to the battery clamps using the clamping nuts/studs. Battery never lost connection in any manner.

The factory nuts/studs? Do you have the eyelet from the battery in contact with the eyelet to the tender? When I just add the eyelet from the tender and try to put a screw on top, I don’t have enough of the stud to tighten the second nut.

 

[pt's21]

The factory nuts/studs? Do you have the eyelet from the battery in contact with the eyelet to the tender? When I just add the eyelet from the tender and try to put a screw on top, I don’t have enough of the stud to tighten the second nut.

If memory serves, I removed clamping nut and washer, added ring terminal on cable, and replaced washer and nut. Will try to get photos tomorrow.

 

[Johnny Rockit]

We have mixed weather coming in with cold temps so there is no rush. I think putting bigger eyelets on the cord will get it done. O'Reilly sells them if there are none in my tool box.
Guest speaker at our club meeting is a sponsor who sells the detailing products which I need at the moment.

 

[pt's21]

Okay, photos of charger cable to battery. Yes, I did have to replace the ring terminals. Also, you will notice a heavy red wire on the positive battery terminal. It is a positive fused feed to an amplifier that routes to trunk beneath the car (changes to blue forward of the battery - didn't have red).
Engine Bay:

Battery Negative Terminal:

Battery Positive Terminal:

Charger Connector (cap removed):

 

[Johnny Rockit]

Just the negative cable. The - side of the battery is where the excess of electrons reside, versus the + side.

Keeping one hand free, use another to loosen the cable at the negative post and remove. You'll be fine then.

After repairs and when returning the cable to the post, use one hand when placing the cable back on the post, while keeping the other hand free.

Using a one-hand principle reduces or removes risk of electricity flowing through you and across your chest.

You might see a minor spark on reconnect; that's OK. The clicking and buzzing will occur and then stop once the car has re-energized.

And rubber gloves never hurt anyone.

 

[Johnny Rockit]

Just finished the tender hookup. Disconnected the battery and went by the pictures and the lights only flashed briefly when I put the cable back on the neg. post. I didn't hear the fuel pump cycle but I am nearly deaf so it may have activated. I kept the key in my truck and interestingly, when I went to close the door the window seemed to be up beyond the weatherstrip and would not close. It freaked me out a little bit and when I opened it the window went down maybe 1/2" and after the door was closed the window went back up. Is this normal?

 

[Strike18]

Just finished the tender hookup. Disconnected the battery and went by the pictures and the lights only flashed briefly when I put the cable back on the neg. post. I didn't hear the fuel pump cycle but I am nearly deaf so it may have activated. I kept the key in my truck and interestingly, when I went to close the door the window seemed to be up beyond the weatherstrip and would not close. It freaked me out a little bit and when I opened it the window went down maybe 1/2" and after the door was closed the window went back up. Is this normal?

It's great you got it hooked up! As time has gone on my anxiety over the situation has pretty much disapeared. Just going to be make sure to follow everyone elses advice when removing the tender.

As for the window going up and down when opening the door and closing it, that I know is normal.

"The motion is referred to as indexing. It allows the glass to plant itself firmly into the rubber seal while still being able to quickly detect an attempted opening of the door and pull it back down so as not to tear the seal. (There are sensors in both door handles that activate the indexing before the latch allows the door to move).

Without it at high speeds the vacuum that develops outside the windows pulls the window glass outwards at the top resulting in undesirable "burping" of the air from inside... repeatedly and rapidly."

 

[Johnny Rockit]

Thank you for that information. It makes sense as my wife is brand loyal to toyota and the last two new rides have done the burping and it is annoying to say the least.

 

[Johnny Rockit]

After a few tries to get the correct push pins(?) for the battery cover I said the hell with that and am doing the Rivsert trick.
One thing that I changed was using a black fender washer under the wing nut. It is held in place by a small o-ring. It should work well.
The battery cover has to come off again to make the hole bigger for a better fit of the strut mount.
I want to cut a slot from the hole to the edge so the cover comes off without having to pull the strut if need be.

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