K4fxd
Well-Known Member
You can't leave out the H2o that comes from the cat either, talk about a green house gas.......CO2 is bad for climate change... Allegedly, it's complicated.
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You can't leave out the H2o that comes from the cat either, talk about a green house gas.......CO2 is bad for climate change... Allegedly, it's complicated.
Well, plants breathe in CO2 and give us oxygen in return. Plant a tree and solve 2 problems.There you go. That is the best argument for removing the cats.
Co2 = bad........Right???
Except the greenie weenies think Co2 is killing the planetWell, plants breathe in CO2 and give us oxygen in return.
The O2 sensors in the 18+ target ~110* colder tip temperature than the 15-17's do.From a 1998 book "Methods for Monitoring and Diagnosing the Efficiency of Catalytic Converters":
This agrees with my data during 90% of the drive cycle, except post-WOT where my exit temp is higher than the inferred cat temp.
Last set of "those" that I had a customer installed on a 800whp car... lasted about 30 min. They were very poor quality compared to something like an OEM hellcat cat. (Lucky when they failed, it didn't take out the motor, since I happened to be data logging it).Bottom line: Don't assume factory cats will hold up to boost. Maybe the will, maybe they won't. If your worried about temps etc., get a quality set of aftermarket EPA legal cats as I mentioned a while ago.
Are you referring to the GESI gsports or some other brand?Just fair warning, the cats fail on stock cars with enough abuse. Even at stock power levels.
Last set of "those" that I had a customer installed on a 800whp car... lasted about 30 min. They were very poor quality compared to something like an OEM hellcat cat. (Lucky when they failed, it didn't take out the motor, since I happened to be data logging it).
Called the manufacturer and they said "oh you can't actually use these cats at WOT, they are only made for testing and normal driving. you should really take them off if you are going to be flooring the car".
What shows in the log when they fail or start to fail? Infered temp change or trims etc?Just fair warning, the cats fail on stock cars with enough abuse. Even at stock power levels.
Last set of "those" that I had a customer installed on a 800whp car... lasted about 30 min. They were very poor quality compared to something like an OEM hellcat cat. (Lucky when they failed, it didn't take out the motor, since I happened to be data logging it).
Called the manufacturer and they said "oh you can't actually use these cats at WOT, they are only made for testing and normal driving. you should really take them off if you are going to be flooring the car".
The downstream o2’s start switching high/low at cruise.What shows in the log when they fail or start to fail? Infered temp change or trims etc?
What's the proper measurement/logging procedure and how much of a fluctuation is considered normal? Appreciate a small knowledge shareThe downstream o2’s start switching high/low at cruise.
The downstream o2’s start switching high/low at cruise.
The way I understand it,What's the proper measurement/logging procedure and how much of a fluctuation is considered normal? Appreciate a small knowledge share
See post #65 in this thread.What's the proper measurement/logging procedure and how much of a fluctuation is considered normal? Appreciate a small knowledge share
The problem with just looking at the rear sensors at any point in time, is they are not in control of the fuel and therefore the oxygen stored in the converter. When the fronts control the fuel, its much much faster than the rears can display, and so the rears show rich from the lack of oxygen, when really its just been bouncing around stoich. Maybe if you start seeing the rears looking exactly like the fronts, but i'm willing to bet the monitor test catch it losing effeciency long before you see that. Then typical people looking at logs will confuse lots of OL, DFCO, and PE commanded sources with a degraded converter.See post #65 in this thread.