I know these have come up before on the forum.Have you considered Race Ramps ? I've used them for a couple years and like them
I have two sets of the 2 piece cribs, works fine with the stock GT350I know these have come up before on the forum.
Which one do you recommend for a non R, stock suspension?
Iām liking the removable ramp which frees up space.
This seems like a great solution but you cannot remove a wheel during an oil change. Small price to pay I guess.
Yes, city and back roads with a few couple hundreds round trips thrown in. I live in a desert climate so Iām thinking high heat has something to do with it as well.interesting, lots of city driving?
...only asking cause I seem to hit the warning around 7k miles.
The equivalent bolt for MT82 shifters can't be removed without lowering the trans a bit or prying the trans/tunnel apart with a pry bar (ie. the length is greater than trans to tunnel clearance). Good to see Ford can produce contemporaneous designs that fall out AND that can't be removed.well, the shift linkage bolt that fell out and was ordered next day finally showed up...
...and now I can see why it wandered off, holy hell thereās only about five threads on the dam thing!
That's wild, I've yet to come across a fully cured coating I couldn't remove! My go to is a uro-fiber and a correcting compound strong enough for P1500 marks. I would NEVER instruct anyone to go those measures to remove a coating.I did one car that was ceramic coated and it took forty hours of polishing to get it off. Then another four hours to correct the clear coat on the paint. A quicker way would be to wet sand it off but I didnāt want mess up my garage or driveway! If it can be taken off without wet sanding I will definitely try it!
I have multiple compounds and pads that will easily remove 1500 sand marks. They did NOTHING to the ceramic coating on this car. I finally used an old wool pad with Malco Paint Rejuvenator. At first it looked like I was wet sanding. Finish got very dull. Gradually I could see round shiny spots, getting to the actual clear coat. Iām NOT instructing anyone to wet sand their car, Iām saying this particular car took 40 hours of polishing. I tried multiple pads, multiple compounds and nothing cut through. When I got to the last panel I wet sanded with 3000 then 5000 sand paper and saved myself a couple of hours. IāM NOT A FAN OF CERAMIC COATING after all this!My go to is a uro-fiber and a correcting compound strong enough for P1500 marks. I would NEVER instruct anyone to go those measures to remove a coating.
So what coating was this and how many coats? If they even disclosed it.I have multiple compounds and pads that will easily remove 1500 sand marks. They did NOTHING to the ceramic coating on this car. I finally used an old wool pad with Malco Paint Rejuvenator. At first it looked like I was wet sanding. Finish got very dull. Gradually I could see round shiny spots, getting to the actual clear coat. Iām NOT instructing anyone to wet sand their car, Iām saying this particular car took 40 hours of polishing. I tried multiple pads, multiple compounds and nothing cut through. When I got to the last panel I wet sanded with 3000 then 5000 sand paper and saved myself a couple of hours. IāM NOT A FAN OF CERAMIC COATING after all this!
I have friends that are ceramic fanatics and their cars look awesome! When it comes time to paint correct good luck! The clear coat on a car is around a 7. Ceramic coatings that are a 9 are harder than the clear coat. Iāve been detailing cars since 1974. In last three years Iāve detailed over 150 cars. Only one with ceramic coating that was a nightmare! Iām not recommending that ANYONE wet sand their coatings off. I am saying I wilL NOT put any coatings on my cars until I know I can get it off after the time and effort it took to get it off this car. Attached are some (not all) of the compounds I used and the car with the paint from hell!