FRPP track kit and PP toe links. Need some info

[Nate_V8]

So originally I was going to buy bilsteins but by the time they get to my door they are about 3-400 more than the FRPP kit M-18000-F. I've seen both recommended so I'm fine with the FRPP for my DD. But in the pic of the FRPP kit, I see rear shock mounts but they aren't mentioned. If included, are these an upgrade over stock or should I replace them with the steeda/BMR rear shock mounts? I've seen it all over the forum that aftermarket rear shock mounts help control the rear bounce (the FRPP kit are being paired with steeda linear min drop springs)

The FRPP kit doesn't say if new bolts are included, would I need any extra hardware not included in the kit? (Excluding new jounce bumpers)

For the PP rear toe links. I have a '17 GT premium and I've seen mixed data on the rear links. Does my car have the PP links and PP delrin bushing? On the steeda site it says the PP rear toe links are an upgrade for all eb/V6/non pp GTs and the bushings are an upgrade over the stock rubber ones on the eb/V6/ non PP GTs. If I don't have them would just upgrading to the PP toe links make a noticeable difference? If not I was pointed to the superpro polyurethane bushings.

https://www.levittownfordparts.com/sku/m-18000-f.html

https://www.steeda.com/ford-racing-...-rear-toe-link-kit-2015-all-161-m-5972-m.html

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[moffetts]

The mounts included in the kit are the same as the factory mounts. The factory bolts are re-used.

PP cars have the PP toe link, but they do not have the bearing that is in the knuckle (from the factory, there is a bushing inthe knuckle regardless of PP/non-PP). Ultimately, you end up with a bearing on both ends if you have the PP toe link and the FRPP toe bearing. Non-PP cars come from the factory with a bushing in the toe link and a bushing in the knuckle.

The toe bearing is not hard to install, so I recommend doing it.

 

[Nate_V8]

Ah ok, I thought the bearing replaced the bushing in the toe link but now I see it replaced the rubber bushing in the knuckle to toe link. Ok so I will get the PP toe link and also get the super polyurethane knuckle bearing.

I will also grab a steeda/BMR shock mount.

Thanks for clearing all that up.

Does the FRPP kit need front and rear jounce bumpers? The bilsteins had integrated fronts but I'm not sure that the FRPP do

 

[moffetts]

The kit comes with bump stops, but you'd probably benefit from cutting them down slightly.

I'm not aware of an aftermarket polyurethane toe bushing, or at least I've never heard of someone using such a thing. I have seen people discuss that option for the RLCA bushing replacement, but that's a different part. Just make sure you don't get those two parts confused.

 

[Nate_V8]

The kit comes with bump stops, but you'd probably benefit from cutting them down slightly.

I'm not aware of an aftermarket polyurethane toe bushing, or at least I've never heard of someone using such a thing. I have seen people discuss that option for the RLCA bushing replacement, but that's a different part. Just make sure you don't get those two parts confused.

It comes with bump stops? I will have to make sure i find out the correct trim height.

Hmm ok now I have to make sure what parts I'm talking about.

I am going to buy the PP toe link which I guess has a the delrin lined bearing, and then I'm going to buy the superpro polyurethane SPF4736K bushing. Which is the rcla or rear knuckle right? It's what the other end of toe link connects to correct?

https://www.suspension.com/superpro/spf4736k

 

[moffetts]

Yes they do. You can just barely see them on the struts in the picture, and the rear shocks have them too (under the dust boot).

That part is not the toe bushing, that is the RLCA bushing that is equivalent to the BMR BK081 or BK055 bearings. The RLCA connects to the subframe in two positions; the rear position has a bearing from factory but the front does not. This part is notoriously troublesome to upgrade because of the awkward shape of the RLCA and the factory bushing is extremely tight.

The SuperPro part (or BK055/BK081 or the Steeda equivalent) goes where it says "RLCA Bearing" in the attached and the FRPP toe bearing (M-5A460-M) goes where is says "Toe Bearing" in the attached. From the factory, both of these are bushings, PP or not. The other end of the toe link (beneath the RLCA bearing in the photo) is a bushing on non PP cars but the PP toe link has a bearing instead.

 

[Nate_V8]

Ah ok that pic helps a lot. Thank you for your patience. I always thought the other end of the toe link connected to the rcla bearing/bushing. I will now get the PP toe link, the toe link to knuckle FRPP bearing and the superpro rcla bearing.

I'm steering clear of spherical bearings for the most part since it's a DD. I'm not a drag racer and the extra NVH doesn't seem worth it.

Is there any reason I would want to change out the bumpstops included with the FRPP kit?

 

[shogun32]

Is there any reason I would want to change out the bumpstops included with the FRPP kit?

the Ford items are way too hard. Get the ones from Eibach and IMO cut them to half length.

 

[Nate_V8]

the Ford items are way too hard. Get the ones from Eibach and IMO cut them to half length.

Ok thanks, I was originally going to get the eibach ones. So I will do that. Since they are soft would I want to leave them a little longer than half?

 

[shogun32]

Since they are soft would I want to leave them a little longer than half?

They need to be trimmed by the amount your dropping your ride height. If your springs drop 1"", chop 1" off. I DETEST this notion that bump stumps should be used as part of the suspension. In my book they are only to be used as artificial travel limiters (racing) and as a last-ditch means to decelerate the wheel assembly before it physically crashes into other hard parts and by rounding off the force spike, lowering the risk of ripping parts out of the sheet-metal.

In other words, they should never be involved in routine suspension movement.

But apparently 'modern' suspension engineers at the factory use them instead of picking correct spring rates and spec'ing dampers that don't suck horribly.

 

[Nate_V8]

Interesting info. So I will have to trim them .5" then. I don't like things physically crashing into hard things lol

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