Will a factory 2018 Mustang Ecoboost engine also fit my 2015 Ecoboost Mustang for a potential swap!?

[EcoJesus7]

You may not like to hear this, but $8k is not a bad price for a new engine. It is your safest course of action.

I wish i had 8k to spare. Might be a few months till i can save that amount, but i would much rather get something more reliable and/ or cheaper and sell the car as parts if it comes to that. Keep in mind (not that i mentioned it, but im pretty stupid) i still make payments on it... just got it not to long ago... bad decisions everywhere

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[NoVaGT]

I will do that. I am learning the extremely hard way of doing so. I am now talking to mechanics around me to get a fair and reasonable price. I wish i did it right the first time. Is there any components of the engine that are worth saving, or would i need to tear down the engine to find out what is working and what is toast?

No, the entire engine is destroyed.

Oil lubricates every little part of the engine, and your engine oil was mixed with coolant, so the engine internals, every bit of them, is destroyed from lack of proper lubrication during the 4,000 miles you continued driving.

And cooling. The engine was running too hot, and it didn't have proper lubrication, so it's a double hit on the engine. All the internal rotating assembly, the entire cylinder head, everything.

IF you had immediately shut the engine down after the billowing white smoke started and the idiot lights came on, there might have been a chance of saving the engine with a head-gasket replacement.

Because you kept driving it, it's destroyed.

Sorry buddy, I did the same thing when I was 18. Thank God it was to a POS Ford Escort rust-bucket.

 

[EcoJesus7]

Your best bet is going to be to source the engine yourself and have someone competent do the swap.
Where I live there are mechanics, good ones, that will swap engines for $500 - $800. You bring them the car and new engine and they do the rest.

My dad has a buddy who is willing to work on it for a job (my dad does roofing/small patio) and hes even willing to find us the motor. I would obviously have to pay for the motor. Labor isnt an issue. Finding a motor is

 

[EcoJesus7]

No, the entire engine is destroyed.

Oil lubricates every little part of the engine, and your engine oil was mixed with coolant, so the engine internals, every bit of them, is destroyed from lack of proper lubrication during the 4,000 miles you continued driving.

And cooling. The engine was running too hot, and it didn't have proper lubrication, so it's a double hit on the engine.

IF you had immediately shut the engine down after the billowing white smoke started, there might have been a chance of saving the engine with a head-gasket replacement.

Because you kept driving it, it's destroyed.

Bad turns into worst. Still, this is valuable information. At least i know for a fact that i will need a new engine. Now i have to go and find one. I appreciate all your help.

 

[speedfrk]

Bingo.

Maybe not... is the oil on the dipstick look like oil or is it milky colored? Better yet, drain the oil into a pan and see what comes out. That's why I'd take it to a good performance shop and have them diagnose it. The head gasket could have blow between a cyl and water jacket without coolant ever getting into the oil. Seen it plenty of times... Makes lots of white smoke but doesn't destroy the engine.

 

[NoVaGT]

Maybe not... is the oil on the dipstick look like oil or is it milky colored? Better yet, drain the oil into a pan and see what comes out. That's why I'd take it to a good performance shop and have them diagnose it. The head gasket could have blow between a cyl and water jacket without coolant ever getting into the oil. Seen it plenty of times... Makes lots of white smoke but doesn't destroy the engine.

He drove it 4,000 miles after the gasket blew.

 

[ORRadtech]

Any guesses as to how much a replacement engine, new or used, might cost me?

A quick internet search shows them running between $2700 and around $5k. Depends alot on age, milage. I did see a Ford rebuilt long block for like $2900. That would tie in to your question about what's still good on your engine. Most stuff that bolts to the engine should still be fine. The exception might be the turbos though. I'm not sure what coolant laden exhaust would do to them. I'd bet it's not good.
Were it me, I'd be looking at reputable salvage yards like LKQ. They have a nationwide network and, if memory serves, offer a warranty on their used engines.

 

[EcoJesus7]

A quick internet search shows them running between $2700 and around $5k. Depends alot on age, milage. I did see a Ford rebuilt long block for like $2900. That would tie in to your question about what's still good on your engine. Most stuff that bolts to the engine should still be fine. The exception might be the turbos though. I'm not sure what coolant laden exhaust would do to them. I'd bet it's not good.
Were it me, I'd be looking at reputable salvage yards like LKQ. They have a nationwide network and, if memory serves, offer a warranty on their used engines.

Thank you. I tried reaching out LKQ yesterday, and they said that they did not have any available in stock. May have heard wrong. Will try again later

 

[ORRadtech]

Maybe not... is the oil on the dipstick look like oil or is it milky colored? Better yet, drain the oil into a pan and see what comes out. That's why I'd take it to a good performance shop and have them diagnose it. The head gasket could have blow between a cyl and water jacket without coolant ever getting into the oil. Seen it plenty of times... Makes lots of white smoke but doesn't destroy the engine.

Thats not my experience. Coolant sitting on the pistons will leak into the oil. It will also wash lubricant from the cylinder wall and destroy the walls and rings. You basically steam clean that/those cylinders on every power stoke.
He drove it 4k miles with a coolant leak, the engine is gone.

 

[EcoJesus7]

A quick internet search shows them running between $2700 and around $5k. Depends alot on age, milage. I did see a Ford rebuilt long block for like $2900. That would tie in to your question about what's still good on your engine. Most stuff that bolts to the engine should still be fine. The exception might be the turbos though. I'm not sure what coolant laden exhaust would do to them. I'd bet it's not good.
Were it me, I'd be looking at reputable salvage yards like LKQ. They have a nationwide network and, if memory serves, offer a warranty on their used engines.

Just check their website. They have one for 3k. 69k miles. Might be worth a shot

 

[Idaho2018GTPremium]

Assuming the cylinder liners/rings, crank/rod bearings, etc., are in fact destroyed - could he not just have the existing engine completely rebuilt assuming the block is OK? New bearings everywhere, replace the cylinder liners, new pistons/rings, resurfaced and rebuilt heads, etc.? Seems like a competent engine shop could do this work.

 

[EcoJesus7]

Assuming the cylinder liners/rings, crank/rod bearings, etc., are in fact destroyed - could he not just have the existing engine completely rebuilt assuming the block is OK? New bearings everywhere, replace the cylinder liners, new pistons/rings, resurfaced and rebuilt heads, etc.? Seems like a competent engine shop could do this work.

On the diagnostic, it said i would need to replace the long block because of the purge valve being stuck open

 

[IrishStallion]

Chalk it up as a valuable learning lesson that hopefully you will not repeat. Banks will damn near lend money to anyone with a heartbeat at stupid interest rates. They (dealers/banks) quite honestly take advantage of low hanging fruit all the time (ignorant buyers). These same people buy all the extra add on crap in F&I and get loaded up even more debt. Sad...

 

[ORRadtech]

Assuming the cylinder liners/rings, crank/rod bearings, etc., are in fact destroyed - could he not just have the existing engine completely rebuilt assuming the block is OK? New bearings everywhere, replace the cylinder liners, new pistons/rings, resurfaced and rebuilt heads, etc.? Seems like a competent engine shop could do this work.

It would be an option.
Probably more expensive than a used one but with the obvious advantage of a completely fresh engine.
Since the OP is trying to get out as inexpensively as possible a used engine is likely his best option.

 

[Idaho2018GTPremium]

On the diagnostic, it said i would need to replace the long block because of the purge valve being stuck open

A "long block" is not the same thing as the actual engine block. Long block is the entire engine - block, rotating assembly (crank/rods/pistons), cylinder heads, and intake. The block is just a part of the long block. Cylinder liners and bearings can be replaced. The block is just a hunk of metal cast in a neat shape.

As someone said above, I've never heard of a "warped engine block". That's an interesting description.

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