Suspension Mods for a Newbie?

[Boxxer]

@Flyhalf You gave material to think about . . . for the next batch of mods. But it'd probably be easier if we just traded cars! You got a very nice ride!

@K4fxd B6s would put me over my budget.

Maybe I should approach this if from a different angle: Springs require dropping the subframe and since I'm having a shop do the install, they can put in subframe bushings and subframe alignment at the same time. I think I'm clearer with what I'm trying to ask which is: are there any other mods that should be done while the subframe is dropped? Time is a factor; I need all of this done in one day.

Anything topside, like the strut tower brace, I can do myself and I'll probably get one early next year. Upgrading the shocks and putting in a K brace (still deciding between 4 or 2 point) can be done later too.

Or just do it all.

If I could do it all, I'd never get a strut tower brace; I heard you can't fit a supercharger under it . . . .

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[Labradog]

Why wait to upgrade dampers and pay for labor twice? The Steeda springs are GT350 rates in the front and halfway between GT and GT350 rates in the rear - they will be better matched to the Ford Performance dampers than the stock GT ones. BMR CB005 for the rear cradle and call it a day.

 

[Boxxer]

they will be better matched to the Ford Performance dampers

Ford Performance dampers would put me over budget. I thought Steeda minimum drop springs are better matched to the Pro-Action nonadjustables, plus they're on sale!

 

[K4fxd]

The steeda min drop springs are a good match with the pro actions. They also work with FRPP and B6's

IMO the aftermarket front K braces are not needed, the Ford performance pack K braces and cowl extension are.

 

[bnightstar]

Ford Performance dampers would put me over budget. I thought Steeda minimum drop springs are better matched to the Pro-Action nonadjustables, plus they're on sale!

Why not go with the full FPTP suspension and leave all the nice to have things like IRS Stop the hop kit for other time.

My car is a PP Premium but didn't have the Strut Tower brace. Last year was tracking the car stock and the car best was 1:12 on my local track. I changed following things:

1. Sticky Tires 275/35/19 all around. (not sure how wide the base wheels are though).
2. Strut Tower Brace.
3. Camber Plates (as I was destroying tires).
4. Steeda Front Sway Bar.
5. Amazing alignment (numbers that are not exactly recommended in this forum)

Car dropped from 1:12 to 1:08 at my local 2 km track with a Pro Driver and I dropped from 1:14 down to 1:09. And most importantly now I'm able to do mountain passes with my Evo X friends.

I think that for you something like the Full ford performance track package will be perfect and I think will fit in the budget. You will adress multiple issues at once and improve the car handling and it's a package that is easy to apply. Sure you can use stiffer springs like BMR083 but the FPTP will work ok from the box as well and you can always add springs when needed.

 

[K4fxd]

Lots of ways to skin the cat.

If you want it tight like your Miata, you will need an IRS brace and you will also need the PP K braces in front.

If you do the track pack like was recommended above it will still feel floaty and you will be adding these braces anyway.

So I recommend to start with the braces, alignment kit and bushings. Since the subframe will be lowered I'd add the springs and dampers. I like the steeda min drop. No bump steer correction or other things needed. It will give a bit more neg camber. A good thing for cornering. The best part is it will feel like a heavy Miata.

 

[Adamone92]

Ford performance track struts and shocks, with bmr handling springs is a tried and true combination, and under your budget. Should be right around 800-900ish. Id spend the little extra and get cb762 (200ish) while you are at it. These would all be things they can do while they are in there. You dont want to upgrade the springs without doing the shocks/struts, and you dont want to pay for labor twice. The cb762 will help stiffen up the rear irs and help with 90% of wheel hop. If you cant afford the 200 for bmr cb762, maybe get bmr cb010..its about $100, or do what @K4fxd earlier mentioned and get the front braces. You seem to be thinking he is talking about the strut tower brace..but he is not. Read the post he linked and you will see what he means. The parts he means are cheap, and connect from the firewall to strut tower, as well as under the car. Or spend 100$ more than ford performance track stuff and get bilstein b6 shocks and struts. Those are around 600-700..plus bmr springs will be right around 1k.

These things should be under 1k. Then add install price, and it will easily be installed in a day.

From there you can worry about sway bars and other things if you feel the need.

Just imo and what ive gathered from every suspension mod topic on this forum.

 

[K4fxd]

I've spent the entire summer trying to get this Base model Mustang to feel like a C6 Corvette. I have succeeded.

Anyway good luck and let us know what you go with and how you like it.

 

[bnightstar]

Lots of ways to skin the cat.

If you want it tight like your Miata, you will need an IRS brace and you will also need the PP K braces in front.

If you do the track pack like was recommended above it will still feel floaty and you will be adding these braces anyway.

So I recommend to start with the braces, alignment kit and bushings.

I'm not 100% sold on the idea that the Steeda Stop the hop kit or IRS braces and alignment are needed for a car that is cutting corners. I don't have problem with telling what the car is doing in the back. But you sure need to be able to rotate the car faster which as we know is a big problem of the car and most importantly to take as much as possible from the understeer of the car. Body roll and most importantly nose movement is something that is super distracting and not confidence inspiring to me. Also the on power oversteer is something that is annoying. All of this could be adressed by Shocks+Springs+Sway Bars. I did check the price of FPTP and it's way out of the budget but overall this will do way more than just braces sure the braces will stiffen the chassis but the body roll will stay.

 

[K4fxd]

The braces make the car consistent. I also said to increase the spring rate. The steeda min drops are 200 FT 800 Rear. You might like an even stiffer spring. The BMR 83's are I think 240 FT and 900 rear? But they drop the car an inch at least and will need a roll center correction and bump steer kit.

On my car I did one mod at a time. The IRS braces and the K braces gave the most noticeable improvement.

The front K's will stop the nose movement.

If you can test drive a PP1 or 2 and you will see what I'm talking about.

 

[Adamone92]

If you dont want to buy from american muscle..get someone to price match

https://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-shock-strut-kit-1516gt.html

 

[Adamone92]

The braces make the car consistent. I also said to increase the spring rate. The steeda min drops are 200 FT 800 Rear. You might like an even stiffer spring. The BMR 83's are I think 240 FT and 900 rear? But they drop the car an inch at least and will need a roll center correction and bump steer kit.

On my car I did one mod at a time. The IRS braces and the K braces gave the most noticeable improvement.

The front K's will stop the nose movement.

If you can test drive a PP1 or 2 and you will see what I'm talking about.

Bmr handling is 300 front 980 rear and do not drop the car an inch in rear

 

[Bridgie]

Jacking rails, a good set of 3 ton stands and a high lift jack.. you can get the car stable and high enough to do almost anything under the car.
The whole set will set you back $500 or 3-4 hrs labor, then you have them for good. If you can turn a wrench that is.

With this setup I have had the whole drivetrain out, clutch replacement, rear end subframe drops and many more. Doing the work yourself or with as buddy is so much more rewarding.
Your alignment shop can check torques and fitting is you have concerns. Bite the bullet...!

 

[K4fxd]

Thanks for correcting the BMR spring rates. I was going off my failing memory. LOL

 

[Adamone92]

Jacking rails, a good set of 3 ton stands and a high lift jack.. you can get the car stable and high enough to do almost anything under the car.
The whole set will set you back $500 or 3-4 hrs labor, then you have them for good. If you can turn a wrench that is.

With this setup I have had the whole drivetrain out, clutch replacement, rear end subframe drops and many more. Doing the work yourself or with as buddy is so much more rewarding.
Your alignment shop can check torques and fitting is you have concerns. Bite the bullet...!

According to his first post..he does not have a place to install himself.

Im not sure what that entails. But this may not be an option.

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