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Rant time...what's the worst thing about your Mustang?

ice445

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Well, James (the guy who reply to emails) told me he wasn't even aware of the Mustang needing CANbus compatible LEDs there, so they obviously didn't know. Ha ha. He told me I could return it... but I'd have to pay shipping. For $45, and to find out if they're good on Bullitts/401As, they should offer a return label so I can test it for them. But whatever. Since you don't have the digital display, I need somebody who does.

But still, just for the heck of it, and to rule out a general change in 2019, please check your car to make sure your rear-view mirror still works, and that your bulb is not lit all the time (just turn ignition on in N, and go back and check the bulb... and then select R, just to make sure it's working properly). By the way, my bulb sometimes it lit all the time, but others didn't, so the ECU (or whichever module monitors it), apparently it's not constantly sending a low voltage signal. That's why my stupid radar was working intermittently, and I thought it was the cable making a false contact. But also took me a while to notice it stayed lit. And since I haven't even drove this car at night, can't check the auto-dimming rear-view feature. Thanks.
Yes, my rear view still works, and my reverse light only lights when I shift into reverse. It sounds to me that the LED you used was backfeeding to the PCM and tricking the car into thinking it was in reverse. Not the first time I've seen something like that. It's the same phenomenon when you install cheap LED's into an interior and they're always on but extremely dim.


The issue we're discussing is BUILD QUALITY. Yeah, my ex-2018 Audi S6 of course was quieter than the Mustang... although less than I thought :). But my point is it doesn't matter which car we're talking about; NONE should be rattling like crazy, especially since new. My daughter's Hyundai Accent with 50K+ hard miles is still silent as a church as far as rattles and interior noises. Yes, that car is definitely noisier than my Mustang, as expected, since it lacks insulation. But ZERO freaking noises, which is really nice. The wind and road noise is expected, since ALL of them are going to be the same. I already had to fix several rattles on my Bullitt, and it only has 800+ miles. AND I haven't even taken it to the prevalent rough roads here yet. Can't imagine how it's going to come back after doing that. Ha ha. My Audi also had a couple of rattles, but was able to fix them too. But yes, the build quality of that car was much bettter than the Mustang. But surprisingly, that doesn't bother me. What bothers me the most is interior noises, for some reason.
I have a different perspective on rattles, since 99% of interior rattles aren't really from assembly but supplier variance with the plastics. It's not a build quality issue. It's an issue with how much the contractor that molds the plastic is getting paid and their QC procedures. Despite this, pretty much every brand can and will have rattles on occasion. Usually with modern cars though, you don't develop additional rattles over time unless you're constantly taking apart the interior and putting it back. With the literal THOUSANDS of individual parts and fasteners that make up an interior, I can forgive some new car rattles, personally. Unless they can't be found, then the car is just possessed and should be sold immediately. :cwl:
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Bikeman315

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Well, James (the guy who reply to emails) told me he wasn't even aware of the Mustang needing CANbus compatible LEDs there, so they obviously didn't know. Ha ha. He told me I could return it... but I'd have to pay shipping. For $45, and to find out if they're good on Bullitts/401As, they should offer a return label so I can test it for them. But whatever. Since you don't have the digital display, I need somebody who does.

But still, just for the heck of it, and to rule out a general change in 2019, please check your car to make sure your rear-view mirror still works, and that your bulb is not lit all the time (just turn ignition on in N, and go back and check the bulb... and then select R, just to make sure it's working properly). By the way, my bulb sometimes it lit all the time, but others didn't, so the ECU (or whichever module monitors it), apparently it's not constantly sending a low voltage signal. That's why my stupid radar was working intermittently, and I thought it was the cable making a false contact. But also took me a while to notice it stayed lit. And since I haven't even drove this car at night, can't check the auto-dimming rear-view feature. Thanks.
https://www.diodedynamics.com/accessories/canbus-anti-flicker-modules.html
 

HoosierDaddy

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How about driving 18 miles a day, one way, to town and back, in a properly built premium saloon, say an Audi A6 or a BMW 5 series, for a couple of years, then moving on to the Mustang? I bet you'll notice each and every squeak and rattle this time, and it will drive you mad. :wink:
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Elp_jc

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It sounds to me that the LED you used was back-feeding to the PCM and tricking the car into thinking it was in reverse. Not the first time I've seen something like that. It's the same phenomenon when you install cheap LED's into an interior and they're always on but extremely dim.
That's exactly what happens when you put a non-CANbus bulb when it's CANbus, meaning monitored by the ECU. With a non-monitored circuit, the ECU doesn't know if a bulb is using power or not, therefore doesn't know if it's burned out or not. What I'm baffled is other Bullitts are using non-CANbus bulbs and not reporting problems. My guess is they have the same issue but just don't know yet. Ha ha.

As far as the mirror not getting powered, I think that's the ECU reaction of having the reverse bulb burned out. Similar to the turn-signal rapid-flashing, since neither one tells you in the dash that a bulb is out. Should be corrected with a CANbus bulb though, since they send the correct signal back to the ECU.
 

Vlad Soare

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I wouldn't call this "the worst" thing, but it's still something that annoys me in the Mondeo, and the Mustang will have it too, so here goes. I find it annoying that the fuel filler cap is on the left side of the car. It's always a struggle to find the perfect compromise between stopping close enough to the pump that I don't hinder the person using the next pump, but at the same time far enough away from it that I can still open the door. To make matters worse, all gas stations have some thick metal protection bars around the corners of the pumps, about ten inches high, which are low enough not to be visible from the driver's seat when you're too close to them, but high enough that the door doesn't clear them.
No such problem with my wife's car, which has the filler cap on the correct side. I can park that as close as possible to the pump, then open the door comfortably, no trouble at all.
 

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Bikeman315

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I wouldn't call this "the worst" thing, but it's still something that annoys me in the Mondeo, and the Mustang will have it too, so here goes. I find it annoying that the fuel filler cap is on the left side of the car. It's always a struggle to find the perfect compromise between stopping close enough to the pump that I don't hinder the person using the next pump, but at the same time far enough away from it that I can still open the door. To make matters worse, all gas stations have some thick metal protection bars around the corners of the pumps, about ten inches high, which are low enough not to be visible from the driver's seat when you're too close to them, but high enough that the door doesn't clear them.
No such problem with my wife's car, which has the filler cap on the correct side. I can park that as close as possible to the pump, then open the door comfortably, no trouble at all.
Ah, remember the good old days!

rear-gas-cap.jpg
 

HoosierDaddy

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I wouldn't call this "the worst" thing, but it's still something that annoys me in the Mondeo, and the Mustang will have it too, so here goes. I find it annoying that the fuel filler cap is on the left side of the car. It's always a struggle to find the perfect compromise between stopping close enough to the pump that I don't hinder the person using the next pump, but at the same time far enough away from it that I can still open the door. To make matters worse, all gas stations have some thick metal protection bars around the corners of the pumps, about ten inches high, which are low enough not to be visible from the driver's seat when you're too close to them, but high enough that the door doesn't clear them.
No such problem with my wife's car, which has the filler cap on the correct side. I can park that as close as possible to the pump, then open the door comfortably, no trouble at all.
This is because Mustangs are old person cars (I'm in my 9th decade although only a few months of two of them) and they can't always walk all the way around to the other side.
 

Vlad Soare

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Ah, remember the good old days!

rear-gas-cap.jpg
Ooooh, yes, I'd love that. It would be awesome to be able to use any pump that happened to be available, instead of waiting in line because all of the pumps on the correct side are busy.
Actually, I never wait. If there's an available pump on the wrong side, but none on the correct side, then I just turn the car around and park at the pump in reverse. But still, it would be awesome if I didn't have to do that. :D
 

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Vlad Soare

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Yes, but then the handbrake is in the wrong place :D
Besides, if I had to choose between struggling to open the door at gas stations, and operating the Sync touchscreen and the gear lever with my left hand, I would definitely choose the former. :p
 

raptor17GT

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Yes, but then the handbrake is in the wrong place :D
Besides, if I had to choose between struggling to open the door at gas stations, and operating the Sync touchscreen and the gear lever with my left hand, I would definitely choose the former. :p
the handbrake is not a problem, really no worries about it and you get used to it without thinking. Besides, the 350z I briefly had was the same location for handbrake. Left hand works the controls fine, tbh touch screen for heater controls in a car is bonkers, takes too long to change anything. Couple of dials, job done
 
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-Tick
-Body panel alignment
-Steering squeak - low speed turns, like parking
-Weak paint, chips if you drive near stones
-Standard stock sound system
 
 




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