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Got my new K7979 yesterday. Have a few questions and comments. Thx.

Elp_jc

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Hey gang, got the car yeterday (K7979), at Alamogordo, NM. Took it to some of the best twisties you can find anywhere in the world (Cluodcroft to Sun Spot (Sun Spot highway, which is 17), then to Timberon (about 11 more), and back). Car was actually better than I expected. Pretty close to my ex-Cayman with all sport options, which included 20" wheels with basically a finger of rubber. The 40-series rubber on the Mustang has an initial 'transition' that can feel like an instability, but it's not. You just have to be smooth with the steering. Tons of grip from the P4Ss. Didn't push it too hard, since tires were new. But at around 0.85G, it handled like a champ. A touch of understeer, which is expected due to the front weight bias, but easily dialed out with the throttle. It was tons of fun, especially with the windows open :D. And a hair more body roll than the Cayman, but hardly noticeable, and a welcome compromise since this car is immensely more comfortable, especially in normal mode. I'm really impressed with MagneRide. It's worth more than what Ford charges IMO. No way I'd buy a car like this without it, but I want the car to be kind of a Jack of all trades :). By the way, aired the tires to 33 cold (about 36 up there, at 61-deg). Road/wind noise was a bit higher than I wanted (near triple digits though), but nothing alarming. For me it's acceptable. Curious if my wife is okay with that too (it'll be close. Ha ha). I'm 95% sure the tires will bring it down to a perfectly acceptable level. Otherwise, I'd deal with insulation in an incremental way.

Finally, need input on these issues, please:

1. Opened up the $395 cover in my trunk (a squared elongated box), and to my astonishment, it's probably the cheapest cover I've seen in my life. A super cheap gran vinyl, that I'm sure would scratch the paint even before touching it. Ha ha. No way I'd use that piece of crap. Is that what it's supposed to come with our Bullitts? I recall reading that it was green, and of nice cloth.

2. My stupid PCV valve is defective. It makes the same rattling noise my truck started making at 13K miles (which I just replaced before the trade), but dealer didn't have any. And didn't have tools to swap them (it's the same). It's only $6, but $20 with shipping. Oh well. Will order 2, since they fail often by making an annoying rattling noise. And that brings me to my question: CJ Pony lists a JLT kit, but the intake on our Bullitts is different, and it wouldn't fit as shown for regular GTs. Is a catch can needed at all on our engines? If yes, please post what did you get, and photos, PLEASE :D. Thank you.

3. An ahole with an UNSECURED dump truck pulled into the highway right when I was about to pass, dumping gravel like crazy. Slowed down to about 60, and it sounded horrible. Car is a bug mess now, but after washing it, I'm sure the damage won't be pretty. My freaking luck with new cars just doesn't change, even at 58. Ha ha. Oh well. Need green touch-up paint, preferably in spray. Please post what you use, and if you're happy with it. I tried DupliColor before, and it's like water. Hope there's something better. I also tried DrColorchip in the past, and never liked it, so if nobody makes a good spray paint, does Ford offers a touch-up pen? Thx.

4. I'm probably going to change the oil at 1K miles, and swap it for M1 0/30. Was disappointed to see a plastic pan that is prone to leaks on F-150s, so hope that's not the case here. But more importantly, I wanted to install a magnetic drain plug, but guess it's not possible. Also read over the F-150 that owners use a 'Ronin plug' to avoid making a mess. Have you heard of that? At any rate, just need input if there's a better drain plug than the original. Thank you.

5. Is there a better/cheaper place to buy discounted Ford parts than Tasca? Just checked prices for front/rear all weather mats (my car doesn't have any rear mats. Is that normal?), and the trunk mat, and they're significantly cheaper than CJ Pony... but after shipping, they're $50 more expensive (WTF?). Difference in shipping is over $80. HATE when people do that, so rather use somebody else that is less deceiving, even if it's the same price delivered. And yes, will use CJ Pony for the mats, but need to order the PCV valve and some oil filters from a Ford dealership.

That's all for now. Have many service questions like where to lift the car from, etc., but will look for answers at other forums (DIY, etc). The filter is listed as FL500S, so the same as the truck. Thought these cars use cartridge oil filters, but guess not. Thanks gang.
JC
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Elp_jc

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People are quiet today, I guess. Ha ha. Anyway, I'm thinking of selling my Michelin P4S tires now, since the car is new (200+ miles), and buy the A/S3Ss. Just checked Tire Rack, and they cost $1,216 shipped, while the A/S3Ss $1,060. What could I realistically get for them? Just an idea. If I get nothing, would just wear them out. But that might take me at least 2 years, and don't want to spend even 1 winter with them, since it also gets dangerously cold for those tires here. Thx.
 

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Tony Alonso

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Regarding touch-up paint, you can get a bottle from the Ford parts department (color code B5).
 

Bikeman315

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Is a catch can needed at all on our engines?
Ask 100 people 50 will say yes, 50 will say no. It's all about security and comfort. Is it necessary, no. Could it be useful, maybe.

I also tried DrColorchip in the past, and never liked it
Dr. Colorchip has always been my go to. Not sure what you didn't like about it but I would certainly try again for a color like DHG.

Was disappointed to see a plastic pan that is prone to leaks on F-150s, so hope that's not the case here. But more importantly, I wanted to install a magnetic drain plug, but guess it's not possible. Also read over the F-150 that owners use a 'Ronin plug' to avoid making a mess. Have you heard of that? At any rate, just need input if there's a better drain plug than the original. Thank you.
Have not heard any leak issues with the plastic pan. The Ronin plug is an expensive work of art but what the hell, you've got a 50K car.
https://roninfactory.com/products/f...MIyuOmqIC76QIVxNSzCh107wY1EAQYASABEgLuOfD_BwE

Is there a better/cheaper place to buy discounted Ford parts than Tasca? Just checked prices for front/rear all weather mats (my car doesn't have any rear mats. Is that normal?), and the trunk mat, and they're significantly cheaper than CJ Pony... but after shipping, they're $50 more expensive (WTF?). Difference in shipping is over $80. HATE when people do that, so rather use somebody else that is less deceiving, even if it's the same price delivered. And yes, will use CJ Pony for the mats, but need to order the PCV valve and some oil filters from a Ford dealership.
Just shop around. Tasca could be cheaper on an item one day and more expensive the next. All of the online Ford dealers are pretty close in price. Also check eBay and Amazon.
You do not get rear mats on a Mustang. Lots of options out there. Pick your poison.
 

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Bikeman315

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People are quiet today, I guess. Ha ha. Anyway, I'm thinking of selling my Michelin P4S tires now, since the car is new (200+ miles), and buy the A/S3Ss. Just checked Tire Rack, and they cost $1,216 shipped, while the A/S3Ss $1,060. What could I realistically get for them? Just an idea. If I get nothing, would just wear them out. But that might take me at least 2 years, and don't want to spend even 1 winter with them, since it also gets dangerously cold for those tires here. Thx.
Here’s an idea on the tires.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...-255-40-19-about-1500-miles-700-set-4.140292/
 

aileron

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The yellow drain plugs are cheap; I bought 10 of them for $28 from one of the online Ford parts vendors. If you throw them away every time you change oil you'll be fine with no leaks. Be sure to lube the O-ring with a little fresh oil before installing the new plug!

Buy the old configuration plug, with the 3/8" square "hole", you can use a socket extension GENTLY to undo and install the plugs instead of using the ears on the later version.

I live in the cold and snow, so run dedicated Nokian Hakkapelitta winter tires and stock Michis the other 8 months.
 
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Elp_jc

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I personally was very disappointed with the car cover....for that price and for a "specialty" car I was hoping for something more than the bullitt symbol....It just didnt meet with my expectations for the price.
It is made by Covercraft, which is top notch.
Thank you. Unfortunately, it's the 'right' cover. But man, for that price, I was expecting at least a soft material. Yeah, Covercraft might be 'top notch', but so is Toyota, where you can buy a Yaris or an LS500. I got the cheap-a$$ 'Yaris' cover. Ha ha. Oh well.

Regarding touch-up paint, you can get a bottle from the Ford parts department (color code B5).
Thanks man, but can't find it on any Ford parts websites. Only found this one on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-...ds=afm0401&qid=1589739232&s=automotive&sr=1-2 , but it's the wrong code. It says 'dark highland green', but I think it's just 'highland green'. I prefer spray paint, but this is the closest I got: DupliColor 'Dark Green Mica BTY1603', which is a Toyota color (same thing with my white platinum truck, and it was pretty close, but too watery). I might try that one.

Ask 100 people 50 will say yes, 50 will say no. It's all about security and comfort. Is it necessary, no. Could it be useful, maybe.
Do you, or anybody else here, know of a kit that actually fits the Bullitt? Since it has a different intake than other GTs, it needs something different. Don't think you can adapt the regular GT one, for what I could see, but not 100% sure. Hopefully a Bullitt owner installed one, and can shed some light on fit. But most importantly, on function. If no oil inside the catch can, that means it's unnecessary. THAT is what I'd like to know :D. Thank you.

Here’s an idea on the tires.
Thanks brother. But got a better idea from the other Bullitt forum: Call Michelin. Somebody did that, and got 80% discount on the new tires, plus $150, and mounting and balancing. That pretty much comes out like if I sold the tires privately, and without the hassle. Will report on what they say tomorrow :).
The Ronin plug is exactly what I'm looking for... provided I can safely remove it with every oil change. I want to remove the most oil possible, AND also clean the magnet, and monitor what's on it. Sent an email to Ronin, asking if you can do that without causing any wear on the plastic pan over time. If they don't answer that with a resounding 'yes', then I'd just replace the stock one every time and call it a day. I need to check the maintenance forum to see tips to avoid a gush of oil. Maybe holding the plug partially released. In addition, will have to buy another oil reservoir, since mine is for 10 quarts, so it'd be filled to the gills. Will look for a 12-qt one, I guess. Or maybe reinstall the plug halfway thru, pour it on a container, and keep going for the second half. I'll figure a way :). Also need to find out where it's safe to lift the car. And hopefully there're central points both front and rear. Would like to avoid having to drive the car up ramps, since it's manual. Thx.
 

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Touch up paint
https://paint2fix.com/touch-up-pain...MI492hgsu76QIV0ODICh3alg1fEAQYAiABEgKtEfD_BwE

https://www.yatesperformance.com/to...MI0taEnMu76QIVSeDICh3GuwUXEAQYAyABEgKr6PD_BwE

Here's a spray but you would need to contact them to see if it is "B5"
https://scratcheshappen.com/shop/to...d&utm_term=sh-paint-kit-aerosol-essential-459

The Ronin plug is two pieces. The main piece stays in the pan and the second piece screws into the first. Easy to adjust the flow if you do not want to dump all 10 quarts at one time.


For jacking, simple get jacking rails. Allows you to raise and lower anywhere along the side without damaging the pinch weld. I like Steeda but, of course, there are others.
https://www.steeda.com/Steeda-S550-...is-Jacking-Rails-2015-2020-Coupe_p_15941.html
 

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Elp_jc

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Thank you. Will check those out later tonight.
The Ronin looks great, but I want to remove the 'base' (which is attached to the oil pan) on every oil change, and need to know the billet piece won't damage the pan over time. It shouldn't if it fits perfectly, but rather ask. I like to remove as much of the old oil as possible. And also to clean and inspect the magnet.
I already ordered exactly those 'low profile' jacking rails. Hey, I noticed the rear bolts are at an angle, not perfectly vertical, like the front ones. Did you notice that? And do you have the torque of all those bolts, please? They need to be tightened to factory specs, so need that value. Thank you.

Floor Mats/Trunk Mat
Well, I already ordered them, but thank you anyway. Those are cheaper. Tried Tasca, and another parts website, and they wanted $265 and $185 (respectively) in shipping for both. Geez. Finally found a 3rd (FordPartsGiant), which was pretty decent with the floor mats, but wanted $100 for the rear one, so just ordered those. So had to order the rear mat from CJ Pony, which was about $20 more expensive than yours. Oh well.

Hey gang, I'd like a few more things, in case you've heard of any. Muffler tips shaped the same as the muffler piping that passes for tips. Ha ha. Also want a matching dead pedal. The plastic piece of crap looks out of place with the rest of the pedals. Otherwise, might order a full set of aluminum pedals. I've bought a lot of sets from ultimatepedals.com. But they were quite expensive for what they were. Will check others. That's it for now :D. Thanks to all who have helped me; greatly appreciated.
 

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The Ronin looks great, but I want to remove the 'base' (which is attached to the oil pan) on every oil change, and need to know the billet piece won't damage the pan over time. It shouldn't if it fits perfectly, but rather ask. I like to remove as much of the old oil as possible. And also to clean and inspect the magnet.
Kind of defeats the purpose of the two piece design. Maybe just stick with the OEM plug. They do the job well enough.
Hey, I noticed the rear bolts are at an angle, not perfectly vertical, like the front ones. Did you notice that? And do you have the torque of all those bolts, please? They need to be tightened to factory specs, so need that value.
My friend has these so I’ll ask him when I get a chance. Here are the numbers.

https://www.steeda.com/assets/image..._Mustang_Full-LengthChassis_Jacking_Rails.pdf
 

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[QUOTE
4. I'm probably going to change the oil at 1K miles, and swap it for M1 0/30. Was disappointed to see a plastic pan that is prone to leaks on F-150s, so hope that's not the case here. But more importantly, I wanted to install a magnetic drain plug, but guess it's not possible. Also read over the F-150 that owners use a 'Ronin plug' to avoid making a mess. Have you heard of that? At any rate, just need input if there's a better drain plug than the original. Thank you.
[/QUOTE]

Why, on earth, would you put 0-30 oil in your Bullitt? Also, the stock plug is plastic which is what the oil pan is made of. Why introduce a plug which has not been thoroughly tested by Ford with that plastic pan? I have changed my oil several times on both cars and the stock oil plug is great.
 

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People are quiet today, I guess. Ha ha. Anyway, I'm thinking of selling my Michelin P4S tires now, since the car is new (200+ miles), and buy the A/S3Ss. Just checked Tire Rack, and they cost $1,216 shipped, while the A/S3Ss $1,060. What could I realistically get for them? Just an idea. If I get nothing, would just wear them out. But that might take me at least 2 years, and don't want to spend even 1 winter with them, since it also gets dangerously cold for those tires here. Thx.
Keep the PS4 and get a set of performance winter tires on appropriate rims. The PS4 are so much nicer than the A/S3s (which I had on my M235) that it's well worth the cost. My winter setup (a square setup using 245/45R19 Michelin Pilot Alpin 5 tires on 19x9 Ford Performance Boss 302S wheels) did run $2400 delivered, but it is worth every penny for the PS4 performance most of the year.
 
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Elp_jc

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Kind of defeats the purpose of the two piece design.
The Ronin has a magnet, so that's why I'd prefer that one. And you can also control the flow without having to hold the damn thing yourself. But if there's any kind of risk of damaging the stock plastic oil pan with the billet Ronin fully removed every oil change, then I'd stick with the stock one, and just buy them in bulk, to be cheaper. I was under the impression they could be reused, but why risk a leak, I guess. And thank you for that Steeda link; didn't realize they had instructions. Will look for the second page, but it should also be 45 ft/lbs, I'd guess. Thanks again.
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