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Watson 4 Point Roll Cage installed in HR361

SgdriskillGT

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@Tomster would using the Watson rear seat delete with precut openings significantly reduce time/effort on the install?
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@Tomster would using the Watson rear seat delete with precut openings significantly reduce time/effort on the install?
It would save you the time/effort of cutting the Ford oem seat delete.

I dont know if you have the OEM seat delete, but I do believe it is lighter.
 

SgdriskillGT

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It would save you the time/effort of cutting the Ford oem seat delete.

I dont know if you have the OEM seat delete, but I do believe it is lighter.
Yes, I have the OEM seat delete (350R). I don't want to add additional weight, so will probably cut the OEM seat delete instead of installing the Watson. If it saved 50% of the install time, for example, that might change my mind.
 
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Yes, I have the OEM seat delete (350R). I don't want to add additional weight, so will probably cut the OEM seat delete instead of installing the Watson. If it saved 50% of the install time, for example, that might change my mind.
Like the rest of it, take your time. One of the more difficult parts of the install is cutting the holes in the seat delete correctly. Aside from that, I had heard that you can't buy the seat delete anymore, so once you cut it, that's it. I hope I'm wrong, because I dont know why Ford would stop selling them.
 

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Like the rest of it, take your time. One of the more difficult parts of the install is cutting the holes in the seat delete correctly. Aside from that, I had heard that you can't buy the seat delete anymore, so once you cut it, that's it. I hope I'm wrong, because I dont know why Ford would stop selling them.
Got it, thank you. My other consideration was not wanting to cut up the OEM one just in case I sell in the future. But I bought the car to drive it, not to worry about resale value :).

Thanks again.
 

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Got it, thank you. My other consideration was not wanting to cut up the OEM one just in case I sell in the future. But I bought the car to drive it, not to worry about resale value :).

Thanks again.
Yes, but reality is reality. If you ever try to sell it, you will probably be putting it back to stock configuration. If you can't get another OEM seat delete, I'd just go with the aftermarket one.
 

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Question for you guys who have installed their bars. Has any of you has the pads of the rear legs not sit completely straight inline wit the horizontal brace? My main hoop went in perfect but the rear down bars are giving me trouble. Driver side sits on the trunk part perfectly flat but it’s cocked a little and not straight with the horizontal beam. The passenger side, with everything snugged up a little or even loosened up, the rear leg sits up off the trunk pan by about 1/2 inch and is not completely square with the horizontal beam also. Their close but not perfect but as you all know to hit that lip of the horizontal beam they need to be perfectly inline. I think I can tweak the bar to get it close but just wanted to ask some others if yours was like that also to make sure I didn’t get a bar that was possibly welded up wrong. Thx!
 

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If it will primarily be used as a track car, any reason not to simply remove the RSD panel and leave it out?
 

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Question for you guys who have installed their bars. Has any of you has the pads of the rear legs not sit completely straight inline wit the horizontal brace? My main hoop went in perfect but the rear down bars are giving me trouble. Driver side sits on the trunk part perfectly flat but it’s cocked a little and not straight with the horizontal beam. The passenger side, with everything snugged up a little or even loosened up, the rear leg sits up off the trunk pan by about 1/2 inch and is not completely square with the horizontal beam also. Their close but not perfect but as you all know to hit that lip of the horizontal beam they need to be perfectly inline. I think I can tweak the bar to get it close but just wanted to ask some others if yours was like that also to make sure I didn’t get a bar that was possibly welded up wrong. Thx!
 

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I too had the rear leg not flush, but mine was on the drivers side. Mine was also raised up about a half inch. I decided not to send mine back and work with it as is. You have to be very careful and double check your measurements before drilling any holes. I measured the passenger side first, since it was flush. Once I had the holes drilled I installed a couple of bolts to hold it in place and then had my son put his weight on the drivers side mount till it was flush and then I measured for that side while he was holding it down. You also need to be careful if you have to measure for the holes if you have a delete panel because when the bar is removed for fitment it will be higher on that side if you use conduit running down from the attachment point. You also need to leave the delete panel in loose when you feed the bars back through till you have them bolted back down. It is a pain, but mine worked out just fine. I attached a picture of some grommets I used to clean up the install around the holes.
20180813_154659.jpg
20180813_154747.jpg
 

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I used the Watson roll bar in my GT350 as well. I only installed it for track days, and then removed it for daily street driving. I just left the rear seat and rear side panels out of the car when I had the roll bar installed. That way I didn't have to modify anything and I could put the car back to stock. It's definitely a lot louder in the car without the rear seats, but I only ran it that way a few days before and after track events until I had the time to remove the bar. I installed some sound deadener to cut down the noise a little for those days.

Yes it takes some time to install and remove, but for me it was a safety issue. I prefer not to drive around a lot on the street with a roll bar in the car. Plus the bar restricts the front seats from going back enough for my preferred daily driving position.
 

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I too had the rear leg not flush, but mine was on the drivers side. Mine was also raised up about a half inch. I decided not to send mine back and work with it as is. You have to be very careful and double check your measurements before drilling any holes. I measured the passenger side first, since it was flush. Once I had the holes drilled I installed a couple of bolts to hold it in place and then had my son put his weight on the drivers side mount till it was flush and then I measured for that side while he was holding it down. You also need to be careful if you have to measure for the holes if you have a delete panel because when the bar is removed for fitment it will be higher on that side if you use conduit running down from the attachment point. You also need to leave the delete panel in loose when you feed the bars back through till you have them bolted back down. It is a pain, but mine worked out just fine. I attached a picture of some grommets I used to clean up the install around the holes.
20180813_154659.jpg
20180813_154747.jpg
Please send link to the grommets, I really like how they look.

Thanks
 

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Sorry, That pic above is from Amazon, it is called a Rig Rite 620 3 inch grommet. I trimmed the inside diameter to match the roll bar outside diameter.
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