PP2 real life pictures

[Allentown]

your kidding right? FULL STEEDA STOP THE HOP KIT first line above..lol

In his defense, Steeda doesn't seel a "full stop the hop". They sell a starter, enthusiasts and ultimate.

I think he figured out "full" equals ultimate.

Don't worry i have the same problem when i am ordering a regular coke at the Mcdonalds drive through:

Them: "What size you want'
Me: "Regular"
Them: "What size is regular"
Me: "Regular = Medium".
Them: "Never heard that before".
Me: "Stares at order board with one eye brow raised...."

 

[R 350 gt Donson]

@IronG start here.

https://www.steeda.com/Steeda-S550-Mustang-Stop-The-Hop-Starter-Kit-555-4455


The complete kit is completely unnecessary unless you're making 700+ RWHP and going to the drag strip fully prepped with slicks and skinnies.

I do not agree at all. Anyone with a PP2 knows that when you "floor the car" in first gear the rear end deforms (bushings) a little and the car hops. You do not have to be at a "drag strip" with tires...etc...to feel it, or want to stop it. It feels horrible and I'm sure it not good on the car.

P.S. Do you even own a PP2? if not...you may not know what I'm or we're talking about in regards the hop with these tire and suspension.

 

[nastang87xx]

P.S. Do you even own a PP2? if not...you may not know what I'm or we're talking about in regards the hop with these tire and suspension.

You sure you wanna play the smart ass game with me? In my corner of the world I do more hole shot launches in a day that you do in a month or probably even a season.

 

[nastang87xx]

Let's break wheel hop down for a moment. It's a function 3 parts, the tires, the suspension, and the driver. Wheel hop happens when the tires lose grip and the energy transferred to the ground is lost and transferred back into the suspension and subframe, thus unsettling the entire system and causing wheel hop as this is happening again and in succession because there is still too much work being applied to the tires.

Solutions?

Roll into the power so you don't overwhelm the tires. Least punishing on parts, probably the slowest.

Get tires that aren't going to let go when the power is applied. Lethal Performance's old 2011 GT was making 700 RWHP on STOCK suspension. However the tires they were using were slicks and skinnies with a good driver who knew how to apply power out of the hole shot. Zero wheel hop issues. There are many videos showing this.

Alter your suspension to prevent energy transfer back to the subframe. Stiffen/lock out bushings, better reacting shocks and springs, etc etc. But there's two issues here, there's the subframe stability and there's the suspension tuning. One is that we're stiffening up the subframe but leaving the suspension (which is already not doing its job) to suffer. The other is that if the suspension is softened up and quicker reacting, the subframe is still unstable. You need to find a balance. This where we see the case of again and again and again. Stiffer is not always better. People stiffen and stiffen and stiffen until their stiffy explodes and they get no results because the rest of the system has been neglected or completely unbalanced. So if the tires can't take it and it's sending energy back into the subframe but the subframe is more capable than the tires, it's going right back to the tires that are already not up for the task. Both Steeda and BMR have both seen 80 - 85% reductions in subframe deflection with only subframe bracing using BMR's Lockout Kit Level 2 or Steeda's Subframe Brace sections which is more than enough for a prepped drag strip and street tires with a reasonable driver and untouched shocks and struts. The rest is completely wasted because on a prepped surface the tires can actually take it now. But if you keep adding into that power bucket, there will be a point where the tires aren't good enough anymore. Then you're looking at doing shocks and struts or a MagneRide retune or something to improve the suspension's transfer capability ASSUMING your tires still haven't run out of capability.

I am 100% for subframe modifications but CORRECT modifications. In fact every time someone starts talking about suspension upgrades, I say BMR lockout Kit 2 or Steeda Braces before ANYTHING. This gives you the chance to find out what the suspension is doing and limits of grip on the tires. Look if you want the whole kit, that's fine, it's your car and you'll be more set than most. But do note that not all of your wheel hop issues will be addressed because you locked everything out. Your next problem is going to be that questionable drag mode on your PP2 MagneRide and you may realize that you might have gone a step too far. In the end, it's about where the rubber meets the road. Tires make the most improvement on any car. Tires control the coefficient of friction before any other piece on the vehicle. Tires keep the car on the ground before suspension does. Need proof? Top Fuel cars don't even have a suspension except for the tires themselves. Exaggerated example? Yep. But it drives the point home the hardest.

 

[R 350 gt Donson]

You sure you wanna play the smart ass game with me? In my corner of the world I do more hole shot launches in a day that you do in a month or probably even a season.

"Lighten up Francis" were all in this together.............. I do not care how many launches you made or haven't made. I don't agree with your advise on whether someone needs or doesn't need the Steeda stop the hop kit based on horsepower etc.... It's my opinion and you have yours. Lets agree to disagree. BTW you did not answer the question do you own a PP2?

 

[nastang87xx]

Thanks for the info. I probably should have just asked the following question first and avoided the "version" of the kit confusion....I won't be dragging the car at all, but will be doing track days (7-10 weekends a year) so enhancing the drivability on a track would be the goal. I also have no plans for greatly improving the HP/TQ as well.

So with that said, would the starter kit or the enthusiast kit be the one to go for?

Starter kit. I primarily road race and autocross. My BMR lockout kit was plenty enough for now even running in Group 1/Advanced.

 

[nastang87xx]

BTW you did not answer the question do you own a PP2?

Own? Nope. Driven? Yes, and in a high performance applications multiple times and back to back to my GT350 both on stock tires.

 

[R 350 gt Donson]

Own? Nope. Driven? Yes, and in a high performance applications multiple times and back to back to my GT350 both on stock tires.

Oh...well Im not sure how hard you "ragged the car" you drove...but as I said at the beginning of all this. When you "floor it" in 1st gear in a roll even..PP2 owners will tell you the back wheels will hop. And the Steeda Stop the hop kit I highly recommend to my fellow PP2 owners. Another thing I did to track the car with confidence was to add the "Full tilt boogie racing" Rear diff cooler...pump and all not just air cooled

 

[Wildcardfox]

Oh...well Im not sure how hard you "ragged the car" you drove...but as I said at the beginning of all this. When you "floor it" in 1st gear in a roll even..PP2 owners will tell you the back wheels will hop. And the Steeda Stop the hop kit I highly recommend to my fellow PP2 owners. Another thing I did to track the car with confidence was to add the "Full tilt boogie racing" Rear diff cooler...pump and all not just air cooled

Rear diff cooler is a must if you plan to track a PP2, and I own both a 2019 PP2 and GT350R.

 

[Allentown]

Let's break wheel hop down for a moment. It's a function 3 parts, the tires, the suspension, and the driver. Wheel hop happens when the tires lose grip and the energy transferred to the ground is lost and transferred back into the suspension and subframe, thus unsettling the entire system and causing wheel hop as this is happening again and in succession because there is still too much work being applied to the tires.

Solutions?

Roll into the power so you don't overwhelm the tires. Least punishing on parts, probably the slowest.

Get tires that aren't going to let go when the power is applied. Lethal Performance's old 2011 GT was making 700 RWHP on STOCK suspension. However the tires they were using were slicks and skinnies with a good driver who knew how to apply power out of the hole shot. Zero wheel hop issues. There are many videos showing this.

Alter your suspension to prevent energy transfer back to the subframe. Stiffen/lock out bushings, better reacting shocks and springs, etc etc. But there's two issues here, there's the subframe stability and there's the suspension tuning. One is that we're stiffening up the subframe but leaving the suspension (which is already not doing its job) to suffer. The other is that if the suspension is softened up and quicker reacting, the subframe is still unstable. You need to find a balance. This where we see the case of again and again and again. Stiffer is not always better. People stiffen and stiffen and stiffen until their stiffy explodes and they get no results because the rest of the system has been neglected or completely unbalanced. So if the tires can't take it and it's sending energy back into the subframe but the subframe is more capable than the tires, it's going right back to the tires that are already not up for the task. Both Steeda and BMR have both seen 80 - 85% reductions in subframe deflection with only subframe bracing using BMR's Lockout Kit Level 2 or Steeda's Subframe Brace sections which is more than enough for a prepped drag strip and street tires with a reasonable driver and untouched shocks and struts. The rest is completely wasted because on a prepped surface the tires can actually take it now. But if you keep adding into that power bucket, there will be a point where the tires aren't good enough anymore. Then you're looking at doing shocks and struts or a MagneRide retune or something to improve the suspension's transfer capability ASSUMING your tires still haven't run out of capability.

I am 100% for subframe modifications but CORRECT modifications. In fact every time someone starts talking about suspension upgrades, I say BMR lockout Kit 2 or Steeda Braces before ANYTHING. This gives you the chance to find out what the suspension is doing and limits of grip on the tires. Look if you want the whole kit, that's fine, it's your car and you'll be more set than most. But do note that not all of your wheel hop issues will be addressed because you locked everything out. Your next problem is going to be that questionable drag mode on your PP2 MagneRide and you may realize that you might have gone a step too far. In the end, it's about where the rubber meets the road. Tires make the most improvement on any car. Tires control the coefficient of friction before any other piece on the vehicle. Tires keep the car on the ground before suspension does. Need proof? Top Fuel cars don't even have a suspension except for the tires themselves. Exaggerated example? Yep. But it drives the point home the hardest.

Whatever dude I am throwing most of the steeda catalogue on my base model come Monday ......or rather Steeda is throwing it on .

 

[R 350 gt Donson]

Whatever dude I am throwing most of the steeda catalogue on my base model come Monday ......or rather Steeda is throwing it on .

You are going to be amazed at how much more solid it feels if that even seems possible.

 

[R 350 gt Donson]

Does any know of a 325 30 19 tire? I want a little wider and not more than a half inch overall height. I can not wait for these Cup 2 tire to wear out....I have 900 miles on them and look the same. I guess I will have to see cords coming out them to know when its time..lol And suggestions?

 

[TicTocTach]

Does any know of a 325 30 19 tire? I want a little wider and not more than a half inch overall height. I can not wait for these Cup 2 tire to wear out....I have 900 miles on them and look the same. I guess I will have to see cords coming out them to know when its time..lol And suggestions?

Hey, Don,
Tire Rack shows 16 of them available, so there should be plenty of choices - even some all-season which I wouldn't have thought. I know that there are a couple guys in the SVE PP2 Replica wheel thread are running 325's and they look awesome. Look for member LSchicago - he just did this.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/new-lmr-sve-sp2-wheels-pp2-replica.113960/page-9

 

[IronG]

In his defense, Steeda doesn't seel a "full stop the hop". They sell a starter, enthusiasts and ultimate.

I think he figured out "full" equals ultimate.

Don't worry i have the same problem when i am ordering a regular coke at the Mcdonalds drive through:

Them: "What size you want'
Me: "Regular"
Them: "What size is regular"
Me: "Regular = Medium".
Them: "Never heard that before".
Me: "Stares at order board with one eye brow raised...."

Yeah that is exactly where I was. I had already looked into the kits and did not get the full equals enthusiast. After it being called out, it made sense.

 

[IronG]

Starter kit. I primarily road race and autocross. My BMR lockout kit was plenty enough for now even running in Group 1/Advanced.

Appreciate the info/insight........You are probably correct with getting the starter kit to start off with. I have done extensive suspension/chassis mods to my GTI 337 for track use. The compromise is ride quality which I was ok with on the GTI as it would be primarily a track car. The Mustang will be tracked, but I also intend to drive it occasionally on real roads so my lean on this build is to retain more on street driving than all out track. I am hoping to not need to make many changes.