Strut Rod Nut.
Forget all those special sturt tool where the socket is partially cut out for you to access the strut. I tried those and in some instances works fine, but what you really want is a pass-thru 1/2in wrench (https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-891226-Ratchet-Locking-Flex-Head/dp/B000NIAKJK). NOT cost effective (I mean, you can use it as another wrench set too), but helped with all my strut installs so far (Roush Coilovers, Vikings, Steeda Shock Mounts, and Ford Performance Track Kit). I do have the Schwaben strut sockets, but found it annoying to use and hard to get the nut torqued down versus the pass-thru where you can really get the nut torqued down.
I may have to check that out. I was able to install my springs with my kobalt impact gun just fine.
How do you like those window louvres? I’m undecided between those or the mmds.Years ago i bought a used Mustang. When I went under it to swap stabilizer bars I saw that every piece of unfinished metal was rusted and ugly. Four subsequent new Mustangs showed virtually no signs of oxidation. The current one was/is cleanest of all. The body and wheels are smooth; easy to clean and maintain, while the undercarriage is rough and likely pick up and bond with all the disgusting substances nature and traffic leave on roads. I'd rather not have to deal with that stuff when doing undercar work. Some of the undercar work I anticipate is likely to use up several rattle-cans od glossy paint.
In the olden days I spent inordinate amounts of time and energy polishing combustion chambers and intake manifolds, and matching carburettors, ports, and cylinder holes, polishing and three-angling valves. Even then I was certain I'd never see proof that all that made any worthwhile difference, but I did it anyway, and was pretty happy, even smug, knowing it was done and in there.
Same deal with a dry, more pristine undercarriage: it makes me feel good—even smug—just knowing its condition. That's my rationale for not driving in rain. I don't have a good one for not driving after dark, but that's true as well. On all five most recent Mustangs. Except for action at, and coming home from, the Fiday Night RaceLegal eighth-mile drags.
They are the least expensive ones I found; if I were a car-show person the more expensive ones might have made sense. As it is, these do their job and I can pretty much forget about them (until the backlight gets really dirty and needs cleaning) (hasn't happened, yet) (I don't drive the car in the rain).
I couldn't find a good strut tool so made my own: two pieces of 1" steel bar with a 1" hole. It is lined with brass strip to not mar the strut rod but holds tight enough to get full torque+ on the nut.
Thank you, get a lot of compliments on the set up.
Once the bolt is put on and the strut is attached to the car and the wheels are back on, can you just take a torque wrench and torque it to spec?I couldn't find a good strut tool so made my own: two pieces of 1" steel bar with a 1" hole. It is lined with brass strip to not mar the strut rod but holds tight enough to get full torque+ on the nut.
