Clutch/brake pedal assembly removal

[mindys]

Nice job. I doubt you will be having that problem again!

Yeah, I hope that I do not!

If anyone has this issue and has questions about how to get the pedals out, let me know.

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[OrangeCrush5.0]

I just found my 2016 did the same thing. Did you have the original clutch assist spring in place? How long did it take you to pull out the assembly?

 

[mindys]

I just found my 2016 did the same thing. Did you have the original clutch assist spring in place? How long did it take you to pull out the assembly?

No, I had no assist spring at all. I think it took me maybe 1-2 hours to get it all out. You will need a second person or hook up a bungee to the brake booster to pull it towards the front of the car in order to get the brake/clutch pedal bracket off from the studs on the inside.

The most difficult part of the job is just the position you have to work in. Very uncomfortable if you are tall. (6' here)

 

[Cobra Jet]

Looking at the pic you show of the sandblasted part and cracked area, I wonder if the factory weld was to be complete around the entire perimeter of the pivot tube, instead of just less than small bit of about a 1/4 weld that is there (pre-fix)? Maybe the robot doing the original weld on a mass produced part was not programmed correctly?

Even by physical design with pedal use/pressure being constantly exerted on that part during just daily use (let alone any abuse), the weld should have encompassed the entire perimeter on both sides of the pivot tube.

 

[mindys]

Looking at the pic you show of the sandblasted part and cracked area, I wonder if the factory weld was to be complete around the entire perimeter of the pivot tube, instead of just less than small bit of about a 1/4 weld that is there (pre-fix)? Maybe the robot doing the original weld on a mass produced part was not programmed correctly?

Even by physical design with pedal use/pressure being constantly exerted on that part during just daily use (let alone any abuse), the weld should have encompassed the entire perimeter on both sides of the pivot tube.

Hard to say. I find it interesting that a robotic welder would dump such a large amount of weld material on such a small area. What I would expect from this weld is a smaller, intermittent weld all around the piece...but that was not done probably for cost savings...

 

[OrangeCrush5.0]

Does anyone know if the welds have been improved on newer models? I know the op said he had no clutch assist spring, has anyone else seen this failure on cars with the original clutch assist spring installed? This seems like a pretty serious issue with failing welds on a clutch pedal, this could seriously cause a death if the pedal fails while the cars in 1st gear or reverse if someone is in front of or behind the car. Mine is cracked also, my car has a little under 40k miles and the Ford dealer wouldn't touch the car if I didn't pay a diagnostic fee, I reached out to Ford and got no response. I am not going to pay $140 for them to tell me it's cracked and then tell me it's no longer under warranty.

 

[mindys]

Does anyone know if the welds have been improved on newer models? I know the op said he had no clutch assist spring, has anyone else seen this failure on cars with the original clutch assist spring installed? This seems like a pretty serious issue with failing welds on a clutch pedal, this could seriously cause a death if the pedal fails while the cars in 1st gear or reverse if someone is in front of or behind the car. Mine is cracked also, my car has a little under 40k miles and the Ford dealer wouldn't touch the car if I didn't pay a diagnostic fee, I reached out to Ford and got no response. I am not going to pay $140 for them to tell me it's cracked and then tell me it's no longer under warranty.

Wow, that is really BS that you have to pay a diagnostics fee for that. I have seen some people complain about a failed clutch pedal, but it seems to be pretty rare. Is your pedal wobbling from side to side? My pedal was still functioning, but the pedal was wobbling from side to side and I had issues starting the car since the neutral switch was being engaged incorrectly. Definitely a big issue which renders the car inoperable.

As a precaution, I would always be on the brake whenever the car is in gear if I am at a stand still. It would at least kill the engine and prevent the car from moving forward.

 

[Lime1GT]

Does anyone know if the welds have been improved on newer models? I know the op said he had no clutch assist spring, has anyone else seen this failure on cars with the original clutch assist spring installed? This seems like a pretty serious issue with failing welds on a clutch pedal, this could seriously cause a death if the pedal fails while the cars in 1st gear or reverse if someone is in front of or behind the car. Mine is cracked also, my car has a little under 40k miles and the Ford dealer wouldn't touch the car if I didn't pay a diagnostic fee, I reached out to Ford and got no response. I am not going to pay $140 for them to tell me it's cracked and then tell me it's no longer under warranty.

I wouldn't worry too much of it being a dangerous issue. If the pedal ever failed you put the brakes On and stall the engine. When a clutch pressure plate fails sometimes the clutch pedal is ineffective anyways. I wouldn't go to Ford unless there was warranty as they're going to replace the whole unit. I don't think you can buy just the clutch pedal separate. If you can't remove the pedal assembly yourself and have it re-welded, take it to a local garage or transmission shop that will do it. Should be a lot cheaper than the dealership.

 

[buzzkiller]

I have a question,

How did you get the blue brake pedal retainer bushing and pin out without breaking it??

 

[mindys]

I have a question,

How did you get the blue brake pedal retainer bushing and pin out without breaking it??

Just gotta compress the two tabs on either side. I also remember it being metal in the center and plastic on the outside. Look at the pin and you should be able to figure it out.

 

[buzzkiller]

Got it out. It's a piece of work.

 

[alexm050]

Hey guys I am also dealing with this same issue and have to remove my clutch pedal assembly. Could anybody provide me with the excerpt to remove the assembly? Thanks in advance.

 

[Lime1GT]

http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=781&f=Brake Pedal and Bracket.pdf

http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=1043&f=Cruise Control Deactivator Switch.pdf&p=2

http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=1021&f=Stoplamp Switch.pdf&p=2


Should be similar to yours.

 

[buzzkiller]

Hey guys I am also dealing with this same issue and have to remove my clutch pedal assembly. Could anybody provide me with the excerpt to remove the assembly? Thanks in advance.

Hi, I honestly could not get the pedal assembly out of my 550. I don't know how these guys are doing it. Between the brake booster studs, and the upper portion of the assembly being to large . . . it was not coming out unless I broke something. If you are removing your clutch master cylinder, you do not have to remove the pedal assembly to do so. The CMC is only two allen head bolts... and is actually easy to remove.

 

[mindys]

Hi, I honestly could not get the pedal assembly out of my 550. I don't know how these guys are doing it. Between the brake booster studs, and the upper portion of the assembly being to large . . . it was not coming out unless I broke something. If you are removing your clutch master cylinder, you do not have to remove the pedal assembly to do so. The CMC is only two allen head bolts... and is actually easy to remove.

To get the entire brake/clutch assembly out you will need to have someone pull the brake booster towards the front of the car for you to be able to clear the studs that are protruding into the cabin. Believe me, all can be done without breaking anything.

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