Clutch/brake pedal assembly removal

[BluePonyGT]

The ONLY way it would be a recall is if S550 owners would just go to the NHTSA website and start filing complaints about XYZ safety concerns. Once the NHTSA gets enough complaints, they have to notify the Manufacturer and request a formal investigation. If it is deemed this is a safety hazard that can harm driver/passenger/or the public, then it goes to formal request of Recall.

Until then, it's just a bunch of folks on a message board complaining....

For those with this issue, hit up NHTSA, put in formal complaint and be specific as well as voicing the concern about safety.

NHTSA complaint filed!

I'm ordering a new assembly so I can swap these and have an extra when I get the old one out.

There's so much left lateral play in the pedal to the left I have to consciously push it to the right so it engages the plunger on that sensor correctly. Otherwise it could block the pedal from going down completely. What a pain...

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[NGOT8R]

NHTSA complaint filed!

I'm ordering a new assembly so I can swap these and have an extra when I get the old one out.

There's so much left lateral play in the pedal to the left I have to consciously push it to the right so it engages the plunger on that sensor correctly. Otherwise it could block the pedal from going down completely. What a pain...

Will you have the new one welded or reinforced up better?

 

[BluePonyGT]

Will you have the new one welded or reinforced up better?

Yep. I'm not just going to put the new one in. The same thing will happen.

 

[NGOT8R]

Yep. I'm not just going to put the new one in. The same thing will happen.

Looks like a huge PITA job. It wouldn’t require too much more effort in the manufacturing process to weld that up better.

 

[Kcjefff]

If you're ordering this part, I got it at https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/ for less that 242 shipped.

Part No.: JR3Z-2455-A

 

[5OHTRIX]

Hi @mindys,

Thank you for starting this thread. I repaired my broken clutch assembly going off of info shared here. Thanks to anyone who shared info as well.

Same Scenario: My clutch pedal had side play and pronounced squeak. Stock spring. 75K miles. It went out on my way home from work one night. I tried to downshift and I couldn't push the clutch all the way in. Felt like I hit a notch halfway down. I had to muscle it and limp it home.

Car not starting: I mistakenly replaced the clutch safety switch and clutch spring (Steeda) as the car wouldn't start with the clutch depressed. Obviously that wasn't the problem. For a day or two I could depress the switch by hand, quickly step on the clutch and hit start. That hack stopped working rather quickly. Finally figured out the weld on the upper pivot was broken.

Re-weld: I removed the pedal assembly and had my mechanic weld around the broken surface area so it's stronger than stock. If you spend $300+ on a new assembly it'll likely break again. Save yourself the trouble. Repair your old one if it's in decent shape.

I replaced my clutch master cylinder while I was at it because it's cheap and why not. Clutch operates more smoothly. In terms of bleeding the system, I topped off the fluid and pumped the clutch pedal 160-200 times until positive pedal feel was restored. All good! As mentioned earlier I replaced the spring with a Steeda unit. Not sure it's worth the money but I think it does offer a better feel over stock.

Driving style: I don't abuse my ride but I normally downshift and rev-match. She's stock as a rock. Original clutch. I hit all scheduled maintenance and maintain the car. It's a bummer Ford overlooked this aspect of the S550. A pedal assembly shouldn't break like that. It's a safety issue. My S550 is otherwise very reliable.

Work tip: Take the driver seat out. Take your time. It's straightforward but an awkward position to work in. Torque everything to spec and be careful with the plastic retainers and switches during removal/reassembly. I broke the mounting tab on the upper clutch switch. Cheap part but I paid more to have it overnighted so I could finish the job. End result: My car shifts great!

Best of luck to anyone who runs into this problem.
-
5OHTRIX

 

[mindys]

Hi @mindys,

Thank you for starting this thread. I successfully repaired my broken clutch assembly going off of the shared intel. Thanks to anyone who shared their experience as well.

Same Scenario: My clutch pedal had the side play, and pronounced squeak. Stock spring. 75K miles. It went out on me on my way home from work one night. I tried to downshift and I couldn't push the clutch all the way in. I had to muscle it and limp it home. I mistakenly replaced the clutch safety switch, and clutch spring (Steeda) as it wouldn't start with the clutch depressed. Obviously that wasn't the problem.

Once removed I took my original pedal assembly to my mechanic and had them weld all the way around the pivot point so it won't break again. If you spend $300+ on a new assembly it'll likely break again. Save yourself the trouble. Repair your old one if it's in decent shape outside of the broken weld.

I replaced my clutch master cylinder while I was at it because it's cheap and why not. Clutch operates more easily now. In terms of bleeding the system I topped off the fluid but my vacuum pump was broken so I pumped the clutch pedal roughly 160 times until pedal feel was restored. All good! I replaced the spring with a Steeda unit as well. Not sure it was worth the money but I think it does offer a better feel over stock.

Driving style: I don't abuse my ride but I do downshift and rev-match quite a bit. I hit all the scheduled maintenance and do my best to maintain the car. It's a bummer Ford overlooked this aspect of the S550. It's otherwise the most reliable pony car i've owned.

Work tip: Take the driver seat out, and take your time. It's pretty straightforward but an awkward position to work in. Torque everything to spec and be careful with the plastic retainers and switches during removal/reassembly. I broke the mounting tab on the upper clutch switch. Cheap part but I paid more to have it overnighted so I could finish the job.

End result: My car shifts great!

Best of luck to anyone who runs into this problem.
-
5OHTRIX

It’s great to see that this thread is helpful even since being out of the Mustang since 2020. Good luck to everyone who needs to fix this issue. I’m in a C5 Z06 now so I have my hands full with that car

 

[5OHTRIX]

It’s great to see that this thread is helpful even since being out of the Mustang since 2020. Good luck to everyone who needs to fix this issue. I’m in a C5 Z06 now so I have my hands full with that car

Right on! I love Corvettes! That LS7 is fire! Best of luck with the C5!

 

[rubyredhades]

Hi @mindys,

Thank you for starting this thread. I repaired my broken clutch assembly going off of info shared here. Thanks to anyone who shared info as well.

Same Scenario: My clutch pedal had side play and pronounced squeak. Stock spring. 75K miles. It went out on my way home from work one night. I tried to downshift and I couldn't push the clutch all the way in. Felt like I hit a notch halfway down. I had to muscle it and limp it home.

Car not starting: I mistakenly replaced the clutch safety switch and clutch spring (Steeda) as the car wouldn't start with the clutch depressed. Obviously that wasn't the problem. For a day or two I could depress the switch by hand, quickly step on the clutch and hit start. That hack stopped working rather quickly. Finally figured out the weld on the upper pivot was broken.

Re-weld: I removed the pedal assembly and had my mechanic weld around the broken surface area so it's stronger than stock. If you spend $300+ on a new assembly it'll likely break again. Save yourself the trouble. Repair your old one if it's in decent shape.

I replaced my clutch master cylinder while I was at it because it's cheap and why not. Clutch operates more smoothly. In terms of bleeding the system, I topped off the fluid and pumped the clutch pedal 160-200 times until positive pedal feel was restored. All good! As mentioned earlier I replaced the spring with a Steeda unit. Not sure it's worth the money but I think it does offer a better feel over stock.

Driving style: I don't abuse my ride but I normally downshift and rev-match. She's stock as a rock. Original clutch. I hit all scheduled maintenance and maintain the car. It's a bummer Ford overlooked this aspect of the S550. A pedal assembly shouldn't break like that. It's a safety issue. My S550 is otherwise very reliable.

Work tip: Take the driver seat out. Take your time. It's straightforward but an awkward position to work in. Torque everything to spec and be careful with the plastic retainers and switches during removal/reassembly. I broke the mounting tab on the upper clutch switch. Cheap part but I paid more to have it overnighted so I could finish the job. End result: My car shifts great!

Best of luck to anyone who runs into this problem.
-
5OHTRIX

Heyyo, 2024 checking in on this thread. I ran into it at 76k and am going to file that NHTSA complaint, it's wild this hasn't been recalled yet, but still I need some info. I don't have a guide and the snippets from this thread have omitted any fluid replacement or bleeding (unless I missed it, entirely possible). Is there any nuance to refilling the brake fluid reservoir? Do I just top that with new fluid, pump both pedals until they feel good? I assume the brake fluid rez also fills the clutch fluid lines and cylinder.

Thanks for the help! My current experience ends with nuts and bolts, never had to do any fluids work other than oil so far. I'm worried I'll goof some shit up that won't be so easy to fix given I can't even roll it in neutral from its current spot.

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