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RoadCone

RoadCone

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So i took a different approach. Crank the power up and get them on the backend. My 2.6 60' on street tires sucks but i run them down like a sob. The track was freshly diamond ground so it is taking time to lay the rubber down bu shes still in the 7s trapping over 100 with a slipping clutch.

Are you catless?

Yes I'm catless.




Got nothing to be ashamed of with that!It takes lots of time to figure out what needs done to get them down the track. Take your time, you'll figure it out.

Nice job!:headbang:
Thanks!! Since the last alignment we put a 4.09 gear in it and I dropped the front two bolts of the cradle to put bushing inserts in the diff.. I left the rear two tight, but something may have changed.
Going to have it aligned probably tomorrow so we can make a few hits again Thursday if it's nice.
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Good Job !

I have since made some changes si (Working 2 step /WOT box ) but since I have started racing my A10/18 I am now scared to get back in it and keep making excuses . Lol

I was going to try the steeda "drag" rear sway bar to see if it will help keep it straight as the last time I was out on 26 inch slicks (and skinnies ) it was all over the place .

Scared the hell out of me at 145+ mph which is why I am afraid to get back in it .


!
It will make your A$$ pucker!! It's no joke....
 

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Thanks!! Since the last alignment we put a 4.09 gear in it and I dropped the front two bolts of the cradle to put bushing inserts in the diff.. I left the rear two tight, but something may have changed.
Going to have it aligned probably tomorrow so we can make a few hits again Thursday if it's nice.
I just had my cradle down last week. I pulled the aluminum/3.55 diff out and swapped in a cast iron/3.31 in. Now i'm just waiting for my driveshaft to get back from Shaftmasters, had them change out the pinion flange to one for a manual differential and rebalance it for me..
 

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I just had my cradle down last week. I pulled the aluminum/3.55 diff out and swapped in a cast iron/3.31 in. Now i'm just waiting for my driveshaft to get back from Shaftmasters, had them change out the pinion flange to one for a manual differential and rebalance it for me..
Selling the alum/355 setup? PM me if you are.
 
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Well it appears the alignment was off. When they first did the alignment last year, I found a wrench on the side that was -2.6 camber. Looks like they never tightened. Also thrust angle was off.

I’m sure this wasn’t helping the car go down the track. How much...???thats for the suspension people that know more than me.
19854E82-04AB-407E-8118-AFA58B080E0F.jpeg
 

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I have DR's also... ran them NA and was told to stay away from them with this setup, as now I have a thing called Torque and will break something! :(
So what tires were you running on the pass in the video ?

I also have the Viking warriors but have been advised to upgrade to the crusaders-I can't remember what Kelly said they were lacking .

I had hoped I could send them to Viking to get "upgraded" to the crusader valving but they said it would cost as much as buying the crusaders .

Any thoughts on he steeda drag sway bar .Steeda says it should help keep things straight .It looks like you were swaying a bit so I assume you were on slicks .
 
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MT skinnies up front and MT Streets biased ply R’s in the rear. I guess the Warriors don’t work well w high hp cars.
 

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So are you upgrading ?
 
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So are you upgrading ?
Upgrading what? Sway bars? Driver lol?? Shocks, I would have to sell mine and see how much.

9 second Manual will be BA!!
 

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I cant see how the camber could have “slipped” that far, but the toe be almost perfect... not possible. Moving camber affects toe. That said, the more positive you can get the camber, the better the contact patch you will see.
 

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Upgrading what? Sway bars? Driver lol?? Shocks, I would have to sell mine and see how much.

9 second Manual will be BA!!
Sway bar ? I don't think you would get anything for the stockers .
Not surer there is market for used Viking warriors but I was going to send mine back for the free upfit since I got the earlier version that clunks as well .
 
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I cant see how the camber could have “slipped” that far, but the toe be almost perfect... not possible. Moving camber affects toe. That said, the more positive you can get the camber, the better the contact patch you will see.
Something happened. Camber was a -1.1 both sides and toe was .08 and when it was measured today at .14. I’m thinking the one bolt wasn’t tight and adding 200 lbs to car maybe contributed? Whipple up front and ice tank in back? I’m at a loss here.

Now if I took it back tomorrow with skinnies and 17” biased plies, would that give me different specs??
 
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The street tire setup rubbed slightly with -.5 camber on drivers side under hard bump. This is the clearance with the slicks. Street tires are a 325 on 19” rim. The slicks are on 9.5” rim. Do you all think I need to go to a - 1.00 for slick, or should this clear?
4D04AD12-6A52-43B7-B919-E929EE2AAB2A.jpeg
B595460F-F5FC-4F8C-96E7-ECC1A97A888F.jpeg
 
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