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[?] '18 Intake Manifold on '15-'17

Umang

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So I talked to Lund and they told me that the voltages has nothing to do with it and assured me it's my wiring.
The wiring is honestly not even hard, followed the step by step guide exactly how it was shown so I mean idk.
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GrabberS55017

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Hmm interesting, yeah idk! Im hoping someone here can help on the forums. Hopefully they know what the issue is. He deleted the code for now though.

Does not help it still stumbles at low rpms he did the same thing to me and I told him it was wrong and didn't work and then Assured me it's my wiring and to check it agian.
 

pro 5.0

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Seems like a PIA to get the IMRC to work without tripping a code, seems simpler to just lock them out and forget about it.
 

BMill705

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Okay, I was running locked out and now I’m running my IMRCs.

With the IMRCs—pigtails courtesy of EODtech, then the oem blue plug in. My other blue plug is dangling, sealed up right now.

Runs fine, tripped a p2008 today after running for 2 hours. Log in to Lund to take a look.
What did you use to seal up the plug you left dangling? Looking for ideas on how to seal mine up once I install without cutting them off.
 

EODTech87

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So I talked to Lund and they told me that the voltages has nothing to do with it and assured me it's my wiring.
The weird thing is I got the same code P2005 and told Lund about the voltage difference. They then sent me over a new tune and I’ve had no check engine lights since.
 

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sstone

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What did you use to seal up the plug you left dangling? Looking for ideas on how to seal mine up once I install without cutting them off.
Silicone cap, had it lying around the garage
 

sstone

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The weird thing is I got the same code P2005 and told Lund about the voltage difference. They then sent me over a new tune and I’ve had no check engine lights since.
Basically the same here—one retune and good. Golden, and runs like a freight train.
 

Velgen

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Can someone help? Does this look right for a Vortech/paxton car with no IMRC? Do i need to add the 4 port check valve? Got my boost reference by T ing the brake booster to manifold port. Thanks in advance

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EODTech87

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Everything appears correct other than the 4 port check valve removed. I honestly have no idea how that works so I'm not sure if removing it will have any negative effects. I'd just pay close attention to the brake effort while driving it at first. If it stays the same and doesn't seem like you have to put a lot of extra effort into the brake pedal then I'd say your good to go.
 

EODTech87

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Ok, so from my understanding the 4 port vacuum aspirator has 2 check valves to ensure that the brake booster and IMRC's have and hold vacuum while the engine isn't producing vacuum. It's connected to both the intake and the intake manifold so that one or the other is always providing vacuum because if you loose vacuum you'll loose the brake booster which will increase the pedal effort quite a bit. It seems like all the supercharger installs still keep the aspirator so I would imagine that you'll need to keep it as well if you want your brakes to function normally all the time.
 

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sstone

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Can someone help? Does this look right for a Vortech/paxton car with no IMRC? Do i need to add the 4 port check valve? Got my boost reference by T ing the brake booster to manifold port. Thanks in advance

41256239661_a0980ff31b_b.jpg

40541767204_1ebc1396f2_b.jpg

41212615362_32dd715768_b.jpg

40360257345_076cfac3e5_b.jpg
I'd keep the 4 port aspirator on. I made the original mistake of mis-routing the lines to/from the 4 port my first time around and lost the vacuum assist braking. You can still brake, but it is much, much harder.
 

Velgen

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I'd keep the 4 port aspirator on. I made the original mistake of mis-routing the lines to/from the 4 port my first time around and lost the vacuum assist braking. You can still brake, but it is much, much harder.
Thanks for everything guys!
 

16s550

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So far I think all it is is getting it tuned correctly and probably plugging in the correct blue connector and leaving the proper one disconnected.
 

Umang

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So far I think all it is is getting it tuned correctly and probably plugging in the correct blue connector and leaving the proper one disconnected.
You're supposed to have both blue connectors plugged in.
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