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Roush Stage 1 or Procharger

NothernVAMustang

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What's the best price for a roush stage 1 or a pro charger??


I have a 2017 automatic gt. I won't be doing the oil gears because it's to complicated for me to do and I don't know any shop around that would know how to do it.

My car stock except the wheels. What do you guys recommend the roush or the procharger? I'm just looking to be around 560 to 600 rwhp. I won't be doing anything else except a corsa extreme exhaust. No suspension mod yet I'm gonna do that next summer.

The car is a daily driver, I drive 70 miles a day just going and coming back from work. So I want something that is definitely reliable.

The only problem with the roush it's that I have to modify the block. But the disadvantage with the procharger it's air to air coooled.

So can you guys help me out with my decision?
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SVT-DADDY

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Why do you find the air to air inter cooler a negative? The PC intercooler is known for doing a great job at keeping temps down.

The real question is do you want the immediate TQ of the TVS or the something that feels stock below 3k then pulls like a jet to redline.




What's the best price for a roush stage 1 or a pro charger??


I have a 2017 automatic gt. I won't be doing the oil gears because it's to complicated for me to do and I don't know any shop around that would know how to do it.

My car stock except the wheels. What do you guys recommend the roush or the procharger? I'm just looking to be around 560 to 600 rwhp. I won't be doing anything else except a corsa extreme exhaust. No suspension mod yet I'm gonna do that next summer.

The car is a daily driver, I drive 70 miles a day just going and coming back from work. So I want something that is definitely reliable.

The only problem with the roush it's that I have to modify the block. But the disadvantage with the procharger it's air to air coooled.

So can you guys help me out with my decision?
 
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NothernVAMustang

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I had the ecoboost before the gt with the vortech intercooler and charge temps in the summer was always above a 100. 1 minute at a red light and they would reach 160.


I'm more concerned with the reliability than which one provides low end power vs high end.

Should I also be concerned that I won't be changing the oil gears? My car is an automatic and I'm just gonna run whatever tune the supercharger comes with.
 

Bartly

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... I'm just gonna run whatever tune the supercharger comes with.
If you don't plan on going with a custom tune, don't go with Procharger. They will say their tune works, but the last 5-7 guys on here that went with their tune had to look elsewhere because the PC tune didn't work right. There have been a couple that were reported to work, but seems like more reported problems than those that said it worked. Just a heads up.
I was in your shoes and picked PC because I didn't want to be involved with any tuner, I just wanted something I could bolt up and drive, but didn't work out that way for several of us.

Also, from what I've read the Roush tune might not be any better, but I don't have any first hand experience with that.
 
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i've been running the base procharger HO kit for about 10k miles now (30k on car) and it's been great so far! installation is straightforward, and the maintenance has been easy.

i took a look at some of my recent logs, sitting at idle inbetween heats at the track i have ambient temp as 88F and intake temp as 93F. At the end of the 1/4 the highest temp i see is 136F, and at that point it's still holding rock solid at 20deg advance with the stock HO pulley (should be about 8 psi??).

regardless of ambient temps the car always traps a gear limited 125 MPH in the 1/4. same couldnt be said about gt500s and zl1s that start to trap ~110-115 when the weather gets hot..

i also have stock headers and a catback, and with a custom tune the car put down 630whp. this prob sounds like a big sales pitch lol but the kit's been real solid so far. if i had to do over again i'd go for the HO tuner kit and run 52lb injectors (cheaper), and get it dyno tuned or lund/vmp/whatever. skip the BAP with the HO kit and pulley.
 

SolarFlare

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If you don't plan on going with a custom tune, don't go with Procharger. They will say their tune works, but the last 5-7 guys on here that went with their tune had to look elsewhere because the PC tune didn't work right. Just a heads up. I was in your shoes and picked PC because I didn't want to be involved with any tuner, I just wanted something I could bolt up and drive, but didn't work out that way for several of us.

Also, from what I've read the Roush tune might not be any better, but I don't have any first hand experience with that.
Neither does Roush's. So he screwed either way.
 

SolarFlare

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i've been running the base procharger HO kit for about 10k miles now (30k on car) and it's been great so far! installation is straightforward, and the maintenance has been easy.

i took a look at some of my recent logs, sitting at idle inbetween heats at the track i have ambient temp as 88F and intake temp as 93F. At the end of the 1/4 the highest temp i see is 136F, and at that point it's still holding rock solid at 20deg advance with the stock HO pulley (should be about 8 psi??).

regardless of ambient temps the car always traps a gear limited 125 MPH in the 1/4. same couldnt be said about gt500s and zl1s that start to trap ~110-115 when the weather gets hot..

i also have stock headers and a catback, and with a custom tune the car put down 630whp. this prob sounds like a big sales pitch lol but the kit's been real solid so far. if i had to do over again i'd go for the HO tuner kit and run 52lb injectors (cheaper), and get it dyno tuned or lund/vmp/whatever. skip the BAP with the HO kit and pulley.
Those cars will trap 120+ even in hot weather,85*+. Sorry, but that's a happy reading dyno if you trapping 125 and make 630whp. You're making more like 580, like me.
 

SVT-DADDY

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I had the ecoboost before the gt with the vortech intercooler and charge temps in the summer was always above a 100. 1 minute at a red light and they would reach 160.


I'm more concerned with the reliability than which one provides low end power vs high end.

Should I also be concerned that I won't be changing the oil gears? My car is an automatic and I'm just gonna run whatever tune the supercharger comes with.
Never owned one but as far as supplied tunes go Whipple seems to get rave reviews.
 

Superman15

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What's the best price for a roush stage 1 or a pro charger??


I have a 2017 automatic gt. I won't be doing the oil gears because it's to complicated for me to do and I don't know any shop around that would know how to do it.

My car stock except the wheels. What do you guys recommend the roush or the procharger? I'm just looking to be around 560 to 600 rwhp. I won't be doing anything else except a corsa extreme exhaust. No suspension mod yet I'm gonna do that next summer.

The car is a daily driver, I drive 70 miles a day just going and coming back from work. So I want something that is definitely reliable.

The only problem with the roush it's that I have to modify the block. But the disadvantage with the procharger it's air to air coooled.

So can you guys help me out with my decision?
Procharger.
 

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I can't say just go with a Roush because I never even had a Procharger and I don't pull the fanboy bullsh*t. What I can say is that my Roush/Ford Racing has been operating smooth, plenty of sh*t when I get on it and flat out flawless. I'm tuned by Lund after reading the Roush tune was pretty conservative.
On the other hand, I have a friend who somewhat recently installed a Procharger in his '16. Looks like a very clean set up with quality parts, good value for the money, and has a nice whine to it. He loves it. I easily could've gone either way, but got a good deal on the Roush. Either one you pick, you can't lose.
 

Cobo_pro

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Those cars will trap 120+ even in hot weather,85*+. Sorry, but that's a happy reading dyno if you trapping 125 and make 630whp. You're making more like 580, like me.
Remember that drivetrain losses are in % not ho number, so the higher ho , higher the spread. That being said, there are different factors as well. It's possible he was on a dynojet lol, but if he's MT and you're AT, that would split a bit as well. Either way, you are both putting down some nice ass numbers :hail:
 

ArabianOak

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I'll add a little spice to this...go with the VMP stage 2 or 3 kit...the VMP kit gives you the same 2.3 TVS blower that Roush uses BUT lots of better components to the VMP kit...bigger intercooler, better parts on the blower etc...From all my research (and why I chose VMP over Roush) the VMP kit makes another 30-50RWHP over the Roush kit AND costs less...
 

SolarFlare

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Remember that drivetrain losses are in % not ho number, so the higher ho , higher the spread. That being said, there are different factors as well. It's possible he was on a dynojet lol, but if he's MT and you're AT, that would split a bit as well. Either way, you are both putting down some nice ass numbers :hail:
My numbers were on a dynojet and the correction was STD so SAE would've been lower.
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