Disappointed with G-loc R10f R8r pads

[G-LOCDanny]

You know, it very well could have been the fluid. Like I said, I've never experienced a brake "failure" to this level before.

What did the pedal feel like when the car would not stop? Rock Hard, Soft, Normal?

Pedal felt a bit soft during/after.

When the pedal came back was it progressively better or did it all the sudden feel normal again?

This one is more difficult because I was a bit off my game after it occurred so I took it about 80% for the next few laps. From what I remember, it came back gradually.

How was the pedal feel on the next session?

Pedal feel and brake performance were back next session and I was constantly braking too early because of the incident.

Okay, a lot of things going on here. First, this was a fluid issue, not a pad issue. If you over heated the pads to the point where you felt pad fade, the pedal would have felt the same but the car would not have had the same decel rate as before.

Anytime you have a soft or spongy pedal, it's fluid related. When I say fluid related, I mean you've boiled the fluid, or you have a leak in your brake lines, or you have something going on with the master cylinder/prop valve. 9 out of 10 times it's going to be boiled fluid.


Castrol SRF is hands down the best fluid on the market. The next best fluid is the Motul RBF660. With a car like these Mustangs you should be running one of these two brake fluids. Period. I've heard good things about the Endless fluid, but we have not seen any data first hand. We have seen enormous amounts of data showing us that the SRF & RBF660 are phenomenal fluids.

So one of my theories that popped into my head after the session was over was something that I had read on here. Supposedly these pads run "hot" and tend to burn up dust boots and fluid pretty easily. I was thinking it could have been that causing the fluid to boil, but gave the rbf600 the benefit of the doubt since most have no problems with it on track.

Seems like you all are thinking its fluid and not pads? Some better fluid, maybe titanium shims and ducting?

That rumor was probably created by one of our competitors. In fact, the opposite is true. Our pads help calipers and fluid stay cooler by almost 20% compared to some of our competitors. This is because we do not load up our compounds with iron. We have a small amount of iron in our compounds. We mostly use Carbon, ceramic, and Kevlar as our main ingredients. These materials retain less heat, cool faster, and are much more rotor friendly. Iron retains heat the longest and takes longer to cool down. Iron will eat up your rotors as well.

Finally, I would recommend running at least the R12 compound up front with a mustang. The R16 up front is another solid choice, and R18 is another option if you are running R-Comp tires. I don't think the R10 is the best compound for any Mustang.

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[G-LOCDanny]

Also, titanium shims are a bad idea and should only be used after you’ve done the following and you're still boiling fluid:

· You have cooling ducts installed (properly)
· You have stainless steel brake lines
· You’re running SRF or RBF660
· You’re running proper brake pad compounds

As for cooling ducts, YES, these are a must if you track your car! I understand they are not available for all cars, but if they are available for your car and you don’t them then you’re costing yourself money and risking a lot. Cooling ducts will help reduce the chance of boiling fluid or having a brake failure. These are cheap and easy compared to everything else.

By installing cooling ducts you’ll get more pad and rotor life, more life out of your caliper seals, and hubs. We tell everybody to install cooling ducts if available. It’s a no brainer. My two cents.

 

[wildcatgoal]

Cooling ducts FTW!

My last track day I decided to test the limits of the car and my own nuts size. I had the cooling ducts blocked with these foam pads I have for two sessions during which I drove much more aggressively from a braking perspective than I normally would, achieving 120 mph on the short straight and Godzilla crushing the brake pedal to slow for an immediate 90* turn (or hit the beach). The brakes felt really the same they always do except the last two laps where I was trying my best to keep up with a couple Corvettes with track tires and I may have finally felt a wee bit of brake fade as I had a nuts up into the stomach moment, but she held. Anywho... I did the last session with the cooling open and achieved 1:39.18 and 1:39.5 (same session, fast traffic ahead) all the while having notably more consistent, confidence inspiring braking on weak cheap track pads, where as my best at that track was achieved a session prior that day at 1:40.49 (fast traffic ahead). This is one example in one session on one day but... brake cooling -- me likey.

 

[wildcatgoal]

http://www.torquebrakefluid.com/compare_torque_rt700_to_other_brake_fluids.html

 

[Competition Orange]

Danny and I spoke for over 20 minutes and have determined we will give r16s a try on the front.

Im going to keep my setup as is (no cooling, no shims and rbf600 fluid) to test out the many opinions and theories in this thread. The plan is to add jlt ducts after the next track day as well.

 

[wildcatgoal]

Don't use the JLT-supplied ducting. Get better ducting. The stuff they supply sucks. They will sell you the kit without ducting.

 

[Competition Orange]

Where should I get the ducting then?

 

[wildcatgoal]

Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039L1ZBK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[stoli]

Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039L1ZBK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's 2.5", is JLT not 3" like the Full Tilt Boogie kit?

 

[Competition Orange]

Jlt won't sell anything separate so it's a moot point. They do sell the bezels alone but that doesn't get me the brake side...

 

[stoli]

Jlt won't sell anything separate so it's a moot point. They do sell the bezels alone but that doesn't get me the brake side...

Full Tilt Boogie sells their parts separate. The kits are a little different though.

 

[wildcatgoal]

Jlt won't sell anything separate so it's a moot point. They do sell the bezels alone but that doesn't get me the brake side...

Well, I ordered it from them without the piping. I emailed them and asked.

Yes, JLT is 2.5". FTB is 3". I chose JLT because I did not like the FTB angled hose connection which seems to had a pretty sharp bend to the hose routing. Not sure if that matters, but I also wanted to use the fog lights for now. The 2.5" piping is already an really tight fit so 3" will surely wear on the steering rack joint boot that it would pass over. Plus, if you use the fog light, that hole is really not even 3".

 

[Competition Orange]

Well, I ordered it from them without the piping. I emailed them and asked.

Yes, JLT is 2.5". FTB is 3". I chose JLT because I did not like the FTB angled hose connection which seems to had a pretty sharp bend to the hose routing. Not sure if that matters, but I also wanted to use the fog lights for now. The 2.5" piping is already an really tight fit so 3" will surely wear on the steering rack joint boot that it would pass over. Plus, if you use the fog light, that hole is really not even 3".

Can you email me the contact?

 

[stoli]

Well, I ordered it from them without the piping. I emailed them and asked.

Yes, JLT is 2.5". FTB is 3". I chose JLT because I did not like the FTB angled hose connection which seems to had a pretty sharp bend to the hose routing. Not sure if that matters, but I also wanted to use the fog lights for now. The 2.5" piping is already an really tight fit so 3" will surely wear on the steering rack joint boot that it would pass over. Plus, if you use the fog light, that hole is really not even 3".

I have the FTB kit. The opening starts at almost 4" and reduces to 3" (they have the reducer as part of the kit). There is an angle; not sure why they did that but it still works well. 15k+ miles on it since installing and no excess wear.

 

[Competition Orange]

I have the FTB kit. The opening starts at almost 4" and reduces to 3" (they have the reducer as part of the kit). There is an angle; not sure why they did that but it still works well. 15k+ miles on it since installing and no excess wear.

How does it mount? Does it use the fog light hole? Their stuff doesn't have a lot of detail lol.

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