RedfireV8
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
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I really need to just make my own Build Thread...lol
Just wanted to share my experience. I completed this just last weekend.
During my first track day with this car and still on the 4-pistons, the car did well for most of the day. I could tell the fluid was boiling however, by the final session. It could partially be the track or how I drive and maybe a little of both but I'am pretty hard on my brakes at the track. I knew I would want to upgrade eventually but just wanted to see how the car would do in stock form. Being the car is relatively new and everything is pretty fresh I had good confidence in the 4 pistons and they performed really well. I mean I'm pretty sure these are the best BASE brakes Ford has put on a Mustang.
Even though the fluid looked fine and clear, the whole next week the brakes were pretty spongy. They eventually returned to normal. Also, the pads looked ok but the rotors after one track day were looking pretty rough and had already started developing heat cracks.
Money wise you can definitely save some and upgrade the current 4 pistons with better pads and fluid and you'll probably be ok. Because I knew I'd be going to the track more often and based on how I drive, their consistency, braking force due to the bigger sweeping area of the huge pads and rotors, and well looks of course lol, I decided to upgrade to the 6-pistons.
So... I knew I could probably get all the part numbers and work with one of our vendors on the forums and basically build my very own PP brake kit for much cheaper than $1300. Which you most definitely can. You can make this as cheap or as expensive as you want.
What was the cost? Minus brake pads cause those range from like $75-$350, I was able to get it all for $856, shipped. That was for calipers, rotors, PP shields, caliper pin/backing plate kit and all new hardware. Shoot...most people sell their used PP brakes for that much. And like I did, if you add SS lines and good pads and fluid, you can do it for just over $1150. Saves you some $$$ on Ford's kit and you can get what you really want by putting the kit together yourself. I went with the 50th Anniv. calipers cause I like the look on those more.
The next track day is at the end of the month and am excited to see how these perform for me. I know I could probably break this down into 3 separate reviews as this is on an Auto and I'm using PowerStop Track Day and Z26 pads. Reason I say that is I know a lot of people are interested in how the PP brakes work on Auto's and how PowerStop pads work on these cars. Some say you need the new brake booster and some say you don't. I'm not currently. Nothing out of the ordinary as of yet. The 6 pistons do stop quicker with much less pedal effort. This isn't an ZOMG! difference but it is noticeable. As far as the pads go I've read nothing but great reviews on PowerStops Z26 and Track Day formula. A lot of the heavier HellCat and quicker Z07 guys use these. As I put more miles on these we'll see how they perform. So far I'm happy and they stop really well. I know wildcatgoal already has a review going on for the Track Day pads so I'll probably comment in there on those specifically the next time I'm out at the track.
List of part#'s. Prices may vary.
FR3Z-2B121-E - LCaliper - $252.81 ($50 core charge)
FR3Z-2B120-E - RCaliper - $252.87 ($50 core charge)
GR3Z-1125-H - Rotor - $75.43 (x2)
FR3Z-2001-C - Pads - $217.64
FR3Z-2078-D - LHose - $15.24
FR3Z-2078-C - RHose - $15.24
FR3Z-2068-C - Pad Pins - $39.45 (x2)
FR3Z-2K004-D - RShield - $3.96
FR3Z-2K005-D - LShield - $3.96
W716471-S439 - Caliper Bolt - $1.23 (x4)
Some pics cause everyone loves those.
I should have taken this next to my iPhone 5. This is next to a 6 but man these pads are HUGE!!!
The pad/caliper pins and clips kit...thing. You'll need this when getting the calipers separately. Funny enough the calipers come with the big bolt that goes in the center of the caliper and then the new pads came with the pad bracket, just no pins.
Rear Pads just because
New SS lines front and back. I typically try and go with Goodridge but I didn't like how their rears in their kit are universal lines. These have the same mounting brackets and ends on the lines as factory does.
"something, something, something...complete."
Just wanted to share my experience. I completed this just last weekend.
During my first track day with this car and still on the 4-pistons, the car did well for most of the day. I could tell the fluid was boiling however, by the final session. It could partially be the track or how I drive and maybe a little of both but I'am pretty hard on my brakes at the track. I knew I would want to upgrade eventually but just wanted to see how the car would do in stock form. Being the car is relatively new and everything is pretty fresh I had good confidence in the 4 pistons and they performed really well. I mean I'm pretty sure these are the best BASE brakes Ford has put on a Mustang.
Even though the fluid looked fine and clear, the whole next week the brakes were pretty spongy. They eventually returned to normal. Also, the pads looked ok but the rotors after one track day were looking pretty rough and had already started developing heat cracks.
Money wise you can definitely save some and upgrade the current 4 pistons with better pads and fluid and you'll probably be ok. Because I knew I'd be going to the track more often and based on how I drive, their consistency, braking force due to the bigger sweeping area of the huge pads and rotors, and well looks of course lol, I decided to upgrade to the 6-pistons.
So... I knew I could probably get all the part numbers and work with one of our vendors on the forums and basically build my very own PP brake kit for much cheaper than $1300. Which you most definitely can. You can make this as cheap or as expensive as you want.
What was the cost? Minus brake pads cause those range from like $75-$350, I was able to get it all for $856, shipped. That was for calipers, rotors, PP shields, caliper pin/backing plate kit and all new hardware. Shoot...most people sell their used PP brakes for that much. And like I did, if you add SS lines and good pads and fluid, you can do it for just over $1150. Saves you some $$$ on Ford's kit and you can get what you really want by putting the kit together yourself. I went with the 50th Anniv. calipers cause I like the look on those more.
The next track day is at the end of the month and am excited to see how these perform for me. I know I could probably break this down into 3 separate reviews as this is on an Auto and I'm using PowerStop Track Day and Z26 pads. Reason I say that is I know a lot of people are interested in how the PP brakes work on Auto's and how PowerStop pads work on these cars. Some say you need the new brake booster and some say you don't. I'm not currently. Nothing out of the ordinary as of yet. The 6 pistons do stop quicker with much less pedal effort. This isn't an ZOMG! difference but it is noticeable. As far as the pads go I've read nothing but great reviews on PowerStops Z26 and Track Day formula. A lot of the heavier HellCat and quicker Z07 guys use these. As I put more miles on these we'll see how they perform. So far I'm happy and they stop really well. I know wildcatgoal already has a review going on for the Track Day pads so I'll probably comment in there on those specifically the next time I'm out at the track.
List of part#'s. Prices may vary.
FR3Z-2B121-E - LCaliper - $252.81 ($50 core charge)
FR3Z-2B120-E - RCaliper - $252.87 ($50 core charge)
GR3Z-1125-H - Rotor - $75.43 (x2)
FR3Z-2001-C - Pads - $217.64
FR3Z-2078-D - LHose - $15.24
FR3Z-2078-C - RHose - $15.24
FR3Z-2068-C - Pad Pins - $39.45 (x2)
FR3Z-2K004-D - RShield - $3.96
FR3Z-2K005-D - LShield - $3.96
W716471-S439 - Caliper Bolt - $1.23 (x4)
Some pics cause everyone loves those.
I should have taken this next to my iPhone 5. This is next to a 6 but man these pads are HUGE!!!
The pad/caliper pins and clips kit...thing. You'll need this when getting the calipers separately. Funny enough the calipers come with the big bolt that goes in the center of the caliper and then the new pads came with the pad bracket, just no pins.
Rear Pads just because
New SS lines front and back. I typically try and go with Goodridge but I didn't like how their rears in their kit are universal lines. These have the same mounting brackets and ends on the lines as factory does.
"something, something, something...complete."
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