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ATI super damper install bolt

Silver Bullet

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Trying to install ATI SD balancer but can't find install kit that will work , Does anyone local in Houston already have the all thread rod & nut m12 x 1.5 for this install that I could borrow or buy ? I can't find this size rod in any of the stores either ? Thanks for any help with this !
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db252

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If you can't find the thread anywhere, best bet might be to buy the install bolt from MMR. It sucks when something so mundane puts a halt to a project.
 

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I have the 6" threaded rod with bolt and washer I've used a couple times and just sitting there. I can send you mine, will only cost a couple bucks in a small flat rate shipping box USPS. You can ship it back when done:thumbsup:
 
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Silver Bullet

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Yeah it sucks when 1 thing is holding you up & it was back together so smooth.
Thanks for the suggestion !
 
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Silver Bullet

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Hey Roh92cp, I appreciate the offer that is awesome of you to do that & I would return it !but let me look a little more locally first . I'm gonna go to Grainger tomorrow & see if they can get it ? I'll keep you in mind , but us being so far away it'll probably take 3 or 4 days to get here so I'm gonna try & get it done sooner. Is 6" long all that is needed to do the ATI balancer ? Thanks again !
 

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Roh92cp

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I bought a long reach harmonic balancer install kit you can buy it online or rent it from most auto parts stores just make sure it has the right threat pitch
 
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Silver Bullet

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Is it a bad idea to use the original oem bolt to pull on the balancer , anyone done this & did screw up the threads or did it go on fine with no issues ? I have a new ARP bolt .
 

dmxxcy

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Is it a bad idea to use the original oem bolt to pull on the balancer , anyone done this & did screw up the threads or did it go on fine with no issues ? I have a new ARP bolt .
I wouldn't suggest it either way cause you never know and u don't want to replace your bottom end. I used to tool and didn't realize the balancer was all the way on and actually broke the bolt in the crank and lets just say i had a rough night...
I got the bolt out and all was well but its just not worth the risk in my opinion because i did it the right way and also had a bad time.
 

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Is it a bad idea to use the original oem bolt to pull on the balancer , anyone done this & did screw up the threads or did it go on fine with no issues ? I have a new ARP bolt .
Don't reuse the stock bolt to install the ATI. It will grab but not enough threads to give the right strength which could lead to stripped threads. Right tool right job.
 

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Silver Bullet

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yeah , don't need something stupid to happen , I like to do it right the first time but sometimes get impatient . I'll get the right tool . Glad to here yours came out ok.
 

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The best case is to use an installer or threaded rod that threads all they way into the crankshaft threads to the bottom, then the damper is drawn on by a nut and washer on the the other end. This way your not using and stressing the threads on the crankshaft to draw on the damper but rather the other end. This will ensure you won't damage the crankshaft threads and if something strips it will be the other end at the nut or threads on the other end.
 
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Silver Bullet

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The best case is to use an installer or threaded rod that threads all they way into the crankshaft threads to the bottom, then the damper is drawn on by a nut and washer on the the other end. This way your not using and stressing the threads on the crankshaft to draw on the damper but rather the other end. This will ensure you won't damage the crankshaft threads and if something strips it will be the other end at the nut or threads on the other end.
OK, I ordered the OEM Tools # 24442 for $33.00 + 2 day shipping , it'll do our cars & other size threads also . It's a little more expensive than just the MMR bolt or all thread but it looks heavy duty & the nut has like a bearing on it that will help the nut turn. Thanks for all the help & advise Mustang Bro's. :ford:
 
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Silver Bullet

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The best case is to use an installer or threaded rod that threads all they way into the crankshaft threads to the bottom, then the damper is drawn on by a nut and washer on the the other end. This way your not using and stressing the threads on the crankshaft to draw on the damper but rather the other end. This will ensure you won't damage the crankshaft threads and if something strips it will be the other end at the nut or threads on the other end.
BTW Shawn, Your the reason I'm doing OPG, CG & ATI balancer. I read your whole unfortunate story about your OPG fail , I felt your pain all the way through ! I'm glad you made it through it all with flying colors ! While I'm not at your hp level & others , I just thought it would be better safe than sorry since I do drag race once n awhile . I have Procharger P1 2 stg. 9psi & LTH, Lund tuned 593 hp, 480 trq. Auto which is easier on launches & the car but still wanted peace of mind. Now in the future if I want to crank up the boost I can, but the pistons are the weak spot now. :)
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