OP
OP
Enoch
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #91
Thought I'd post up some basic instructions and do's and donots on what to do to stand a good chance of getting these on... the instructions from Streetfighter are pretty poor...
1. Don't attempt this from axle stands unless you're a glutton for punishment
2. Do get access to a ramp
3. Removal of standard drivers side header...
Disconnect battery
Split RH pipe from where it goes into resonator or X pipe
Separate RH cat from header (2 nuts)
Undo steering knuckle and remove 13mm and T40 torx
You now have access to starter motor, so remove connectors from starter 1x10mm and 1x13mm
Remove starter motor....3 bolts 10mm
Now place a jack and a block of wood under the engine, and jack to take the weight.
Undo 4 engine bracket bolts...13mm
Undo engine mount bolt 15mm and wiggle engine bracket from position...
On the passenger side remove the same nut but leave the engine bracket alone
Undo connectors to O2 sensors.
You now have access to the 8x15mm header nuts.. get them anyhow you can some from above some from below
Finally remove header.....
Now this is where my instructions differ from SF..... SF say to remove all studs apart from the front top one....
I didn't do this. As I prefer studs to bolts, so where I could get away with leaving them in I did..
I left the top front stud in, and all 4 bottom studs, and removed the 3 top studs leaving the 1 in the top front..
This is where it gets interesting...
First replace the big engine bracket over the stud on the engine mount and just leave it hanging there....
Now you have to play around with engine height to get the new header in, but once you get the right height, feed it in through the gaps and hang it from the studs you left in the engine...get a couple of easy nuts on just to keep it there.....DONT TIGHTEN ANYTHING DOWN AT THIS POINT
Next bolt the starter motor back in, again its tight and you'll have to alter the height of the engine to get to the bolts.....don't worry about the connectors.
Ok so far??
Now you'll have to lift the engine as high as you can, and rellift the engine bracket from the stud, and just wiggle it out of the way,
You can now fit the rest of the nuts to the header, some from below, some from above, and you'll need every type of ratchet spanner deep, shallow socket extension bar and your teeth to get access, it really is a jigsaw of tools and raising and lowering the engine to get where you need.
Once you've got all 8 header nuts n bolts tight, you can then refit the engine bracket and rebolt it to the engine and the engine mount...
If you're happy, reconnect starter wiring, and refit steering knuckle.
Screw in O2 sensors and reconnect...
The passenger side is more of the same.....but you don't need to remove the engine bracket and access is a lot better, but again I left in all bottom studs, and 2 studs at the front top...
NOTE... I may have to remove 1 bottom stud and replace with a bolt....not sure yet...
But if I do I'll update here.....it's the second one along from the front...this is the one I still need to get a couple of turns on, and I'm thinking a bolt may be a bit easier...
To remove studs, a 1/4 socket will fit, but the proper tool is like a female Torx...I'll update which one soon....
Now that's your lot
addle::headbonk:
PS IMPORTANT NOTE......DO NOT FIT RH HEADER WITHOUT HAVING THE BIG ALLUMINIUM ENGINE BRACKET IN PLACE FIRST.
YOU WILL NOT GET IT IN AFTER, IT MUST BE IN PLACE BUT LEFT LOOSE, SO THAT YOU CAN MOVE IT AROUND WHILST GETTING TO THE HEADER NUTS N BOLTS
1. Don't attempt this from axle stands unless you're a glutton for punishment
2. Do get access to a ramp
3. Removal of standard drivers side header...
Disconnect battery
Split RH pipe from where it goes into resonator or X pipe
Separate RH cat from header (2 nuts)
Undo steering knuckle and remove 13mm and T40 torx
You now have access to starter motor, so remove connectors from starter 1x10mm and 1x13mm
Remove starter motor....3 bolts 10mm
Now place a jack and a block of wood under the engine, and jack to take the weight.
Undo 4 engine bracket bolts...13mm
Undo engine mount bolt 15mm and wiggle engine bracket from position...
On the passenger side remove the same nut but leave the engine bracket alone
Undo connectors to O2 sensors.
You now have access to the 8x15mm header nuts.. get them anyhow you can some from above some from below
Finally remove header.....
Now this is where my instructions differ from SF..... SF say to remove all studs apart from the front top one....
I didn't do this. As I prefer studs to bolts, so where I could get away with leaving them in I did..
I left the top front stud in, and all 4 bottom studs, and removed the 3 top studs leaving the 1 in the top front..
This is where it gets interesting...
First replace the big engine bracket over the stud on the engine mount and just leave it hanging there....
Now you have to play around with engine height to get the new header in, but once you get the right height, feed it in through the gaps and hang it from the studs you left in the engine...get a couple of easy nuts on just to keep it there.....DONT TIGHTEN ANYTHING DOWN AT THIS POINT
Next bolt the starter motor back in, again its tight and you'll have to alter the height of the engine to get to the bolts.....don't worry about the connectors.
Ok so far??
Now you'll have to lift the engine as high as you can, and rellift the engine bracket from the stud, and just wiggle it out of the way,
You can now fit the rest of the nuts to the header, some from below, some from above, and you'll need every type of ratchet spanner deep, shallow socket extension bar and your teeth to get access, it really is a jigsaw of tools and raising and lowering the engine to get where you need.
Once you've got all 8 header nuts n bolts tight, you can then refit the engine bracket and rebolt it to the engine and the engine mount...
If you're happy, reconnect starter wiring, and refit steering knuckle.
Screw in O2 sensors and reconnect...
The passenger side is more of the same.....but you don't need to remove the engine bracket and access is a lot better, but again I left in all bottom studs, and 2 studs at the front top...
NOTE... I may have to remove 1 bottom stud and replace with a bolt....not sure yet...
But if I do I'll update here.....it's the second one along from the front...this is the one I still need to get a couple of turns on, and I'm thinking a bolt may be a bit easier...
To remove studs, a 1/4 socket will fit, but the proper tool is like a female Torx...I'll update which one soon....
Now that's your lot
addle::headbonk:PS IMPORTANT NOTE......DO NOT FIT RH HEADER WITHOUT HAVING THE BIG ALLUMINIUM ENGINE BRACKET IN PLACE FIRST.
YOU WILL NOT GET IT IN AFTER, IT MUST BE IN PLACE BUT LEFT LOOSE, SO THAT YOU CAN MOVE IT AROUND WHILST GETTING TO THE HEADER NUTS N BOLTS
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