Need sway bar info/suggestions

[Competition Orange]

Interesting. You bent the end links while tracking the car in 100% stock configuration? Or did you have different springs, dampers and tires?

I can't tell you for certain when it happened, but I was stock for 5k miles and 4 months of driving, then got BMR handling springs and winter drove it for 5 months and 5k miles, then in spring got 18x10 square with 275 300tw summer tires for the last 7k miles and spring through fall. I noticed the bend when installing my swaybars last month.

Regular autocrosses last and this year, and 1 hpde weekend at mid ohio this summer.

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[Rebellion]

That's the Strano bar.
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetails.php?PartID=1289&CategoryID=296&ModelID=40

I'd like to know the weight difference between the Steeda & BMR bars vs. the Strano bars, as well as a brief stiffness calc. Since the stiffness is a function of the diameter^4, the 25 mm hollow bar should be stiffer than a 22 mm solid, though by how much I'm not quite sure.

For that price, might as well get a larger hollow one. Supposedly, the stranos is softer than a larger hollow bar on the softest setting. Probably you don't want to reuse the stock bushings, I don't see the point in getting one of equal diameter.

I will drive around the car for a few days/weeks before deciding, I'm trying to determine if I need front ones too (and black friday, for us cheap modders). Most likely if I get the front one, I'll have it at the softest, I don't want to loose that nice front traction.

 

[BmacIL]

For that price, might as well get a larger hollow one. Supposedly, the stranos is softer than a larger hollow bar on the softest setting. Probably you don't want to reuse the stock bushings, I don't see the point in getting one of equal diameter.

I will drive around the car for a few days/weeks before deciding, I'm trying to determine if I need front ones too (and black friday, for us cheap modders). Most likely if I get the front one, I'll have it at the softest, I don't want to loose that nice front traction.

I'd say you need to go throw it around an autocross to decide whether or not you need more rear stiffness.

 

[Rebellion]

I'd say you need to go throw it around an autocross to decide whether or not you need more rear stiffness.

Good idea! :cheers:

For the rears, even in daily driving you can feel that the rears need more. With the stock suspension, if you're not understeering, it's difficult the feel that the rear needs more stiffness. But with the new setup, it's obvious (that Ford intentionally stiffened up the front to get understeer).

 

[BmacIL]

Good idea! :cheers:

For the rears, even in daily driving you can feel that the rears need more. With the stock suspension, if you're not understeering, it's difficult the feel that the rear needs more stiffness. But with the new setup, it's obvious (that Ford intentionally stiffened up the front to get understeer).

You'd be surprised once you're in a position to put power down in anger what the handling balance is really like. Understeer is safe for the street, but you won't really see what the car's tendency is till you're at the limit.

 

[Rebellion]

You'd be surprised once you're in a position to put power down in anger what the handling balance is really like. Understeer is safe for the street, but you won't really see what the car's tendency is till you're at the limit.

That's true...I haven't really pushed it to the limit. In fact, I can't get it to break traction like before (hard turns at 40-50mph).

I'm not that worried about the skid that much, but the body roll is quite pronounced (more than before with the vague stock suspension). I will probably just set it to understeer anyways if I get the sways. What sort of worries me is the balance of body roll vs traction (me overthinking as usual).

 

[BmacIL]

That's true...I haven't really pushed it to the limit. In fact, I can't get it to break traction like before (hard turns at 40-50mph).

I'm not that worried about the skid that much, but the body roll is quite pronounced (more than before with the vague stock suspension). I will probably just set it to understeer anyways if I get the sways. What sort of worries me is the balance of body roll vs traction (me overthinking as usual).

People have this negative opinion of all body roll...and it's somewhat misplaced. Some body roll isn't bad unless it's preventing the car from reacting at the speed you want, or is causing enough roll angle to mess up your geometry. Body roll generally indicates compliance, which for a high-powered, RWD car, isn't always bad. Compliance helps build up the force at the tire gradually, which improves predictability and makes for more mild behavior at the limit.

You now have stiff enough rear springs (980 lb/in) that I seriously doubt your front/rear balance is off with the GT350R fronts. Your overall max roll angle is definitely reduced compared to stock, but you probably feel it more due to how fast the car reacts.

 

[Rebellion]

People have this negative opinion of all body roll...and it's somewhat misplaced. Some body roll isn't bad unless it's preventing the car from reacting at the speed you want, or is causing enough roll angle to mess up your geometry. Body roll generally indicates compliance, which for a high-powered, RWD car, isn't always bad. Compliance helps build up the force at the tire gradually, which improves predictability and makes for more mild behavior at the limit.

You now have stiff enough rear springs (980 lb/in) that I seriously doubt your front/rear balance is off with the GT350R fronts. Your overall max roll angle is definitely reduced compared to stock, but you probably feel it more due to how fast the car reacts.

This is very important! Makes sense and I'm almost sure it's the case here.

Honestly, I have been reluctant on the sways because the "anti-ricer" part of me is saying "don't try to get the race car feel and mess up real handling power". I know it's not possible, but I'm subconsciously trying to make the car feel like a small car. :lol:

Without getting it to skid, I think it's pretty damn hard to diagnose if there is an mod fixable issue or not. Because of how fast it reacts, I've been very cautious about throwing to the limit, unlike when it was stock...which is sort of ironic, trying to drive "better" while the performance is improved. By logic, one should expect that I'll be throwing it all around, but it ain't the case.

Same case with the trans mount mod, it makes you drive better by providing more feedback.

 

[BmacIL]

This is very important! Makes sense and I'm almost sure it's the case here.

Honestly, I have been reluctant on the sways because the "anti-ricer" part of me is saying "don't try to get the race car feel and mess up real handling power". I know it's not possible, but I'm subconsciously trying to make the car feel like a small car. :lol:

Without getting it to skid, I think it's pretty damn hard to diagnose if there is an mod fixable issue or not. Because of how fast it reacts, I've been very cautious about throwing to the limit, unlike when it was stock...which is sort of ironic, trying to drive "better" while the performance is improved. By logic, one should expect that I'll be throwing it all around, but it ain't the case.

Same case with the trans mount mod, it makes you drive better by providing more feedback.

Yeah I mean honestly the limits are too high to safely explore the limits on the street. You need a big parking lot and some cones ...or just find a big empty parking lot and run a virtual skidpad & slalom.

Most everything you want to change regarding handling can be done, it's just a question of how involved you want to be, how much you want to spend, and how much you want to compromise its daily use. It'll never feel small, but the great cars feel smaller the faster you go. That's what I've noticed with this car. On the street it can feel a bit wobbly, but as soon as you really push it, it comes into its own.

 

[Ugly John]

I run my 16 GTPP in F-street autocross. That class only lets you change 1 sway, so I went with the Strano rear. It is stiffer than stock, but not OMG stiffer, like the Steeda or BMR bars. This is important as it doesn't overwhelm the front. It is also adjustable, so you can play with the settings. In fact, I was just thinking I want to change mine from soft to mid before my next event.

If I was changing both front and rear, then I would have probably gone with one of the other manufacturers.

 

[BmacIL]

I run my 16 GTPP in F-street autocross. That class only lets you change 1 sway, so I went with the Strano rear. It is stiffer than stock, but not OMG stiffer, like the Steeda or BMR bars. This is important as it doesn't overwhelm the front. It is also adjustable, so you can play with the settings. In fact, I was just thinking I want to change mine from soft to mid before my next event.

If I was changing both front and rear, then I would have probably gone with one of the other manufacturers.

How much heavier is it than the stock bar? I imagine quite a bit.

 

[Ugly John]

How much heavier is it than the stock bar? I imagine quite a bit.

Yes, a good bit. The stock PP rear is hollow, and thin walled at that. The Strano is just a tad larger diameter, but solid.

 

[Niz55]

I had steeda bars on my 2015 and now on my 2016. Really great bars.

 

[Alloy]

I like the idea of billet mounting brackets from Steeda, but does anyone know if there is a diameter sizing difference between the Steeda bars and Eibach's offering? I just received my Eibach F/R sways but balked at the thin walled mounting brackets they came with.

 

[Texatl]

Only one place to go- Steeda for sway bars and mounts. TJ will help you out!

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