Track day soft brake pedal - what to do?

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[pstoppani]

Are there Performance Friction pads out for S550 PP? These were my favorites for my M3. Hawks caused the most scoring on the rotor face, and Carbotechs seemed to have the lowest wear. Never tried the Pagid yellows, but they were regarded as the best, with a price tag to match.

I defaulted to C-techs as I am running 300 tires so the compound is less critical and these were the most available. It looks like a tuned S550 on slicks needs a lot of pad!

In the past, I found that Hawk Blues are terrible for rotor life, and wheel finish! But, the DTC compounds were great. Not sure if they are available for our cars...

I just got my 17 GT PP so will try GLOC 12/10 combo on RE71Rs which are stickier than their TW200 rating.

 

[Gatorac]

I'm on board with fluid boiling as the issue with the soft pedal.

I'll also say, in all caps, CASTROL SRF. I know it's expensive. I spent years not buying it for that reason. Now my opinion is I don't want to bleed after every event I don't want to bleed after every pad change. I'll just bleed once a year. SRF if all about the wet boiling point. Brake fluid absorbs moisture. That's what makes it boil. SRF is hands down the best at resisting this. Use it and just mark on your calendar the date next year you want to bleed. Not because you need to bleed, just because your bored and and your doing your other yearly inspections then anyways. SRF is sold in 1 liter bottles. One should be enough. Just suck all the old fluid out of the master cylinder and refill before you start to bleed. Amazon Prime;)

If you find your having brake issues at Sebring at a Chin event, come see me. I'll do everything I can to help you figure out WTF is going on.

 

[steveespo]

Truer words were never spoken. SRF stays clearer at least 3 times longer than ATE and Motul. Less corrosive to paint too, gives you a little more time to clean it up before eating the underhood paint.

 

[stoli]

I think I'll take the advice of skipping the Torque brake fluid and jumping up to the Castrol.

Anyone in the market for 4 bottles of Torque RT700? .

 

[jmimac351]

Are there Performance Friction pads out for S550 PP? These were my favorites for my M3.

I also like Performance Friction pads, especially the PFC97, which they did away with except for a Miata fitment a vendor had made. That is an endurance pad and when I went to an AP Racing brake kit for my BRZ, Jeff Ritter at Essex Parts recommended the Ferrodo DS1.11 - as it is also an endurance pad. It also has a very consistent feel across it's heat range. The chart for the pad shows that, and that's been my experience as well. Throughout a session the brakes feel the same. I'm running on Pirelli DH slicks.

So, as a guy who likes PFC, I've been happy with those. I've been reading about this car and haven't found a PFC option.

 

[mnmike59]

I think I'll take the advice of skipping the Torque brake fluid and jumping up to the Castrol.

Anyone in the market for 4 bottles of Torque RT700? .

I read info that showed Torque was far superior in all categories. http://torquebrakefluid.com/compare_torque_rt700_to_other_brake_fluids.html
Very expensive for sure. I just flushed my system using the RT700. I haven't been to the track with it yet, so can't give any reviews.

 

[stoli]

I read info that showed Torque was far superior in all categories. http://torquebrakefluid.com/compare_torque_rt700_to_other_brake_fluids.html
Very expensive for sure. I just flushed my system using the RT700. I haven't been to the track with it yet, so can't give any reviews.

That same chart shows the wet points not far ahead of Motul and still way behind the SRF. I have little doubt the rt700 is good, I'm just going to cut to the chase and get the best.

 

[stoli]

So I was back at the track yesterday with SRF instead of the Motul. What a difference; pedal feel was consistent all day. I could definitely tell then the brakes were hot, but it it wasn't that 'oh shit' moment when there was nothing there.

Thanks for the tips - SRF ftw.

 

[bluestang50]

I'm on board with fluid boiling as the issue with the soft pedal.

I'll also say, in all caps, CASTROL SRF. I know it's expensive. I spent years not buying it for that reason. Now my opinion is I don't want to bleed after every event I don't want to bleed after every pad change. I'll just bleed once a year. SRF if all about the wet boiling point. Brake fluid absorbs moisture. That's what makes it boil. SRF is hands down the best at resisting this. Use it and just mark on your calendar the date next year you want to bleed. Not because you need to bleed, just because your bored and and your doing your other yearly inspections then anyways. SRF is sold in 1 liter bottles. One should be enough. Just suck all the old fluid out of the master cylinder and refill before you start to bleed. Amazon Prime;)

If you find your having brake issues at Sebring at a Chin event, come see me. I'll do everything I can to help you figure out WTF is going on.

If i take mine to ford tobhsve a full flush done will 1 of the liter bottles of SRF still be enough?

 

[stoli]

If i take mine to ford tobhsve a full flush done will 1 of the liter bottles of SRF still be enough?

1 liter did mine...


Another track day in the books and the SRF held up perfect.

Now brake fade on the the XP10's is a different story now that I can be more aggressive. Brake ducts are up next and then when these pads are done, some more aggressive G-LOCS are in order.

 

[Vinny@JLTPerformance]

I've run SRF in big power, heavy, fast track cars. As you get more serious into track days bleeding the brakes between events needs to be on your list of things to do. Even if it's just to get fresh fluid in the calipers.

I've used Brembo LCF 600 in everything else.

Things that need to be done

Frequent fluid changes
Nut-bolt checks (Every event, things loosen up) (IE Putting a wrench on every bolt under the car)

I also was a big fan of the Hawk DTC line but when you get sticky tires on these cars at the street weight you'll eventually melt these pads, forewarn you guys though if the brake dust gets wet and not cleaned off properly they will stain/rust your wheels in short order.

I'm a big fan of the Raybestos line you can get a porterfield racing now. They last on average an extra weekend compared to the softer hawks. They are harder on rotors however. Carbotech pads are my least favorite out of anything I've ever run. I felt the pedal was numb, the car always felt is slowed at the same rate no matter how hard you pressed the pedal until lockup. The raybestos have a fantastic feel and great release, one of the few pads I've ever been able to lockup a tire yet modulate to release it without going for a ride.

 

[pstoppani]

I've run SRF in big power, heavy, fast track cars. As you get more serious into track days bleeding the brakes between events needs to be on your list of things to do. Even if it's just to get fresh fluid in the calipers.

I'm pretty "serious" and in my experience, you put SRF in and forget about of a year; never needing to bleed once!

 

[NightmareMoon]

Trying to get these new GLOC pads on.

two questions:

1) Is there a trick to getting the rear pistols retracted? Prying doesn't seem to work. Do they need to rotate then?

2) Is there a trick to the parking brake?

3) whats the best way to get the front multi-piston pads retracted?

 

[Brent Dalton]

For the rears, take a set of needle nose pliers if you don't have the special tool and twist/ rotate the pistons back in. I use pliers and have for many years without issue.

Not sure what you mean with the parking brake other than it should not be engaged/on while changing pads.

For the front, a caliper piston tool... or a c clamp with an old brake pad. Ideally, you need 2 of each and do them together so the opposite side pistons don't push back out. I've seen it done with one, but it's not ideal. I like the actual tool for the fronts. Either will work though.

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