Steeda cai vs jlt cai your thoughts

[Bluemustang]

Would like to do a comparison with the Steeda tune and our CAI?

This way you can do a apples to apples comparison.

We have spent hundreds of hours on the Dyno with our intake....

pm me if you would like to. All the best Mike D

I don't think I have to time to put both on and strap it to the dyno. But I think it's safe to say that both these CAIs work as advertised. I just happen to like the JLT better for a few reasons but the Steeda CAI was excellent as well.

Nothing but great customer service from Steeda and JLT as well. You guys are making quality products. I think you can't go wrong with either of these CAIs.

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[stoli]

Edit: Last weekend I set my fastest lap time at the road course I frequent while on the stock box. Next time I go back will be with the same suspension/tire setup and the Steeda intake. That to me will be a better test; long stretches at 6000+ rpm when the motor is desperate for air....

Update: I was back at the track this weekend with similar weather (roughly the same ambient temps throughout the day) and on the Steeda no insert intake. This is the same setup I dyno'd a week ago @451whp.

Intake temps were 2-5 degrees higher than the stock box so that didn't seem to matter. What was surprising was cylinder head temps. With the stock box temps were normally in the 209-212 range but with the Steeda it was consistently in the 220-230 range, sometimes as high as 238 after several laps with no traffic. My fast lap time remains on the stock box...

Edit: It seems the root cause of the higher head temps is likely the blocked hood vent/heat extractor. The open element filters (JLT, Steeda, Roush) all seal around the heat extractor, so the only air it can pull out is the fresh air coming from the grill. It's no longer performing it's primary function; removing heat from the engine bay.

 

[Gibbo205]

Update: I was back at the track this weekend with similar weather (roughly the same ambient temps throughout the day) and on the Steeda no insert intake. This is the same setup I dyno'd a week ago @451whp.

Intake temps were 2-5 degrees higher than the stock box so that didn't seem to matter. What was surprising was cylinder head temps. With the stock box temps were normally in the 209-212 range but with the Steeda it was consistently in the 220-230 range, sometimes as high as 238 after several laps with no traffic. My fast lap time remains on the stock box...

As I mentioned a lot in my IAT thread, you will struggle to beat a stock air box on a track car.

On a dyno open air filters do best, as they can flow more, because most people dyno test them hood up, ideally dyno test should be done with the hood down, in most cases you will find the open element filters such as Steeda, JLT, PMAS all then lose horsepower on a dyno or don't make as much as they did hood open as you have limited the flow and the IAT's have gone up vastly.

On a race track in theory the stock air box will make more power, because your moving at 70-140mph, at these speeds the stock air box can gain 5-15BHP due to RAM AIR effect the stock air box has, especially if you have front grill opened up and a Velossa bigmouth to direct the air into it, this will create RAM air which makes more horsepower due to positive air pressure, lower IAT's which in turn also reduce CHT which again makes more horsepower too due to not pulling as much timing.

Heat is the enemy, reduce heat, make more power.

As a compromise for a road course car I would recommend intakes such as Injen, Airaid, Afe because these are all sealed air boxes than can create RAM AIR effect and due to the fact they use cone filters should out flow the stock air box.

Also sealed air boxes tend to give more consistent and better throttle modulation over open type air boxes.

 

[Terminator2]

Update: I was back at the track this weekend with similar weather (roughly the same ambient temps throughout the day) and on the Steeda no insert intake. This is the same setup I dyno'd a week ago @451whp.

Intake temps were 2-5 degrees higher than the stock box so that didn't seem to matter. What was surprising was cylinder head temps. With the stock box temps were normally in the 209-212 range but with the Steeda it was consistently in the 220-230 range, sometimes as high as 238 after several laps with no traffic. My fast lap time remains on the stock box...

Since I did my long tubes my CHTs are never above 203-205 max and that's when it's 98* and 80% RH here. This morning they were 199-201 in 80* 85% humidity. My open intake hasn't effected my CHTs at all.

 

[Gibbo205]

Since I did my long tubes my CHTs are never above 203-205 max and that's when it's 98* and 80% RH here. This morning they were 199-201 in 80* 85% humidity. My open intake hasn't effected my CHTs at all.

Are your LT's ceramic treated or wrapped in the heat insulation?

 

[Terminator2]

Are your LT's ceramic treated or wrapped in the heat insulation?

No they are not wrapped or coated. I thought it was a fluke at first but it's been consistent for the last month.

 

[stoli]

As I mentioned a lot in my IAT thread, you will struggle to beat a stock air box on a track car.

[snip]

Also sealed air boxes tend to give more consistent and better throttle modulation over open type air boxes.

I don't disagree with any of that; others had asked me about direct comparisons so I did it. Back to my stock box now.

 

[Need4Speed15]

Update: I was back at the track this weekend with similar weather (roughly the same ambient temps throughout the day) and on the Steeda no insert intake. This is the same setup I dyno'd a week ago @451whp.

Intake temps were 2-5 degrees higher than the stock box so that didn't seem to matter. What was surprising was cylinder head temps. With the stock box temps were normally in the 209-212 range but with the Steeda it was consistently in the 220-230 range, sometimes as high as 238 after several laps with no traffic. My fast lap time remains on the stock box...

Thanks for the update. I'm curious to see Steedas response on this, they stated in post #10 that they test on road courses in GA and FL. I wonder what their testing showed for their CAI vs the stock box.

 

[Gibbo205]

I don't disagree with any of that; others had asked me about direct comparisons so I did it. Back to my stock box now.

I've got the PMAS and though I am sure it makes great power, even after all my modifications there are two things I dislike:

- Response 3000-4000rpm seems diminished, though it is better under 2000rpm and above 4000rpm. I am putting this down to the fact air speed is slower, bigger tube means more volume but air moves slower, the argument against this though is throttlebody is still same size, so this could be placebo.
- Steady throttle and modulation, on stock air box even in race mode you can keep throttle smooth, but on the PMAS the throttle is so sensitive that even in sport mode things can get a little jerky, making it harder to press on through curves particular bumpy roads when you at say 40-70% throttle, so throttle modulation and smoothness is not as good.


I assume you noticed this with the Steeda buddy?

 

[Terminator2]

I've got the PMAS and though I am sure it makes great power, even after all my modifications there are two things I dislike:

- Response 3000-4000rpm seems diminished, though it is better under 2000rpm and above 4000rpm. I am putting this down to the fact air speed is slower, bigger tube means more volume but air moves slower, the argument against this though is throttlebody is still same size, so this could be placebo.
- Steady throttle and modulation, on stock air box even in race mode you can keep throttle smooth, but on the PMAS the throttle is so sensitive that even in sport mode things can get a little jerky, making it harder to press on through curves particular bumpy roads when you at say 40-70% throttle, so throttle modulation and smoothness is not as good.


I assume you noticed this with the Steeda buddy?

Mine hits pretty hard between 3000-4000. Feels more responsive everywhere even off idle but especially from 3000-7200. Doesn't feel like it dies up top above 6500 now.

 

[Gibbo205]

Mine hits pretty hard between 3000-4000. Feels more responsive everywhere even off idle but especially from 3000-7200. Doesn't feel like it dies up top above 6500 now.

Up top it feels like it pulls hard now right upto 7500rpm. 3000-4000RPM could be more placebo simply because it makes so much noise.

But throttle modulation I would say feels more natural on the stock air box, on the PMAS it feels over-sensitive which is a good and bad thing, lol.

 

[stoli]

I've got the PMAS and though I am sure it makes great power, even after all my modifications there are two things I dislike:

- Response 3000-4000rpm seems diminished, though it is better under 2000rpm and above 4000rpm. I am putting this down to the fact air speed is slower, bigger tube means more volume but air moves slower, the argument against this though is throttlebody is still same size, so this could be placebo.
- Steady throttle and modulation, on stock air box even in race mode you can keep throttle smooth, but on the PMAS the throttle is so sensitive that even in sport mode things can get a little jerky, making it harder to press on through curves particular bumpy roads when you at say 40-70% throttle, so throttle modulation and smoothness is not as good.


I assume you noticed this with the Steeda buddy?

What you are seeing with the PMAS is what I saw with the JLT. The Steeda felt like a much smoother/linear throttle response.

Around town on the street I have zero complaints with the Steeda setup. I'm just looking for the best all-around setup when I'm on the road course and 10-30* cooler head temps are significant in my eyes. This is with a fully open intake section of my grill and the Big Mouth tube.

I think the point of failure is the hood vent is taken out of the game by the open element intakes. With the boxes sealed against a closed hood the vent is now pulling out the 'cold' air from the intake box, and none from the engine bay as it was designed.

So not only are you losing the heat draw from the now boxed off vent, but you are also potentially increasing pressure under the hood by not having that point of exit for all the air coming in from the grill.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[Gibbo205]

What you are seeing with the PMAS is what I saw with the JLT. The Steeda felt like a much smoother/linear throttle response.

Around town on the street I have zero complaints with the Steeda setup. I'm just looking for the best all-around setup when I'm on the road course and 10-30* cooler head temps are significant in my eyes. This is with a fully open intake section of my grill and the Big Mouth tube.

I think the point of failure is the hood vent is taken out of the game by the open element intakes. With the boxes sealed against a closed hood the vent is now pulling out the 'cold' air from the intake box, and none from the engine bay as it was designed.

So not only are you losing the heat draw from the now boxed off vent, but you are also potentially increasing pressure under the hood by not having that point of exit for all the air coming in from the grill.

Just my 2 cents.

Can you explain what you were feeling with the JLT?

I am considering an air raid CAI, can pick it up cheap and those are sealed like stock, with my mods in theory I could really ram a lot of air into it.

 

[stoli]

Can you explain what you were feeling with the JLT?

I am considering an air raid CAI, can pick it up cheap and those are sealed like stock, with my mods in theory I could really ram a lot of air into it.

It's been a while since I had one installed, but almost 'jumpy' if you were gradually increasing the throttle.

Can't go wrong with the Airaid - it's the only one my tuner has ever recommended to me and I didn't listen. lol I regret selling mine now.

 

[Agent_S550]

Update: I was back at the track this weekend with similar weather (roughly the same ambient temps throughout the day) and on the Steeda no insert intake. This is the same setup I dyno'd a week ago @451whp.

Intake temps were 2-5 degrees higher than the stock box so that didn't seem to matter. What was surprising was cylinder head temps. With the stock box temps were normally in the 209-212 range but with the Steeda it was consistently in the 220-230 range, sometimes as high as 238 after several laps with no traffic. My fast lap time remains on the stock box...

I have to concur with everyone following your post. The open box intake is probably not the best for you unless you utilize some sort of proper engine bay venting. Perhaps opening up a set of Roush extractors would help with underhood temps and lower IAT's with the open box? Just shooting from the hip here.

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