GT350 Wheel Hop

[lemers]

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[J_Maher_AMG]

Attention everyone. This is not a drag car. :frusty:

See post #7. Pointless rebuttal. It has more power and torque than a 5.0, should the 5.0 never be drag raced either and just street driven? See where this is going, and how pointless the "this is not a drag car" statement is? People drag race Subarus too, not exactly what they are made for, but they sure are quick and people have loads of fun doing so.

 

[J_Maher_AMG]

Although I agree it is a road course car and that's what its purpose was engineered for, but it's a car, and this is the USA and it is a mustang. People drag race Vipers, Porsche's, Vetts, etc.
I have not drag raced my car but I did notice wheel hope while power shifting into 2nd gear a few times on the road. My choice of eliminating all the factory rubber IRS cradle, differential and suspension bushings were to not only give the car an even more solid feel but also eliminate any wheel hop when I do drive it any way I see fit. Not only will eliminating the rubber bushings stop wheel hop, it also keeps the alignment locked in which will improve handling. Here's a link of what I'm doing to my GT350 now.
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63785&highlight=Axles

I'll be anxiously looking forward to your findings once you have everything reinstalled and test the car on the road. If wheel hop really is eliminated or near enough, I may have to invest in some of the rear end bushings and fixes that you have undertaken yourself. Launching as is now feels like the rear end wants to bounce out of the car lol even on the 1-2 shift I notice a lot of traction issues as you mentioned, and I have the Cup 2's :-/

 

[nastang87xx]

I have yet to experience wheel hop on my TP car with two different models of tires on course or on the street so not 100% what makes me so special but I'm pretty surprised. Personally I think wheel hop is usually from the subframe/rear drive assembly binding forward as the car stays put. Once it has no where else to go, physics takes over and pushes the rear assembly back into place and energy is shot up into the suspension (something that actually is supposed to have functional give) and compresses the shocks and springs a bit. Once the tires bite again, they push the drive assembly forward again, then gets stopped again, energy travels up the suspension, compresses, rebounds, wash rinse repeat, 4 - 6 times a second. Bam, wheel hop. Start with bushings.

 

[Voodooo]

I have yet to experience wheel hop on my TP car with two different models of tires on course or on the street so not 100% what makes me so special but I'm pretty surprised. Personally I think wheel hop is usually from the subframe/rear drive assembly binding forward as the car stays put. Once it has no where else to go, physics takes over and pushes the rear assembly back into place and energy is shot up into the suspension (something that actually is supposed to have functional give) and compresses the shocks and springs a bit. Once the tires bite again, they push the drive assembly forward again, then gets stopped again, energy travels up the suspension, compresses, rebounds, wash rinse repeat, 4 - 6 times a second. Bam, wheel hop. Start with bushings.

Like I said, mine was during power shifts. Not launching the car from a dead stop. I had it happen on both the stock super sports and psc2 tires. Once I get everything back together I will again try the same power shifting and I'll also try from a launch. I will also try both sets of tires and on the same strip of road. My only difference will be road temps which play a huge role in all of this. Almost all of the wheel hop is from the lower control arm rubber bushing movement. When I did my power shifts I heard a loud "bang-thud" from the rear and the wheels were definitely hopping.

 

[nastang87xx]

Like I said, mine was during power shifts. Not launching the car from a dead stop. I had it happen on both the stock super sports and psc2 tires.

Yeah I don't know. I've actually intentionally TRIED to get my car to wheel hop. Nothing. Yet...

 

[BMR Tech]

Guys, there is nothing wrong with people wanting to drag race a car.

I have a car specifically designed for drag racing, and I also just picked up a PP GT that I am going to outfit with parts that cater towards better handling, including some GT350 parts on it....and I will still ride down to the drag strip every now and again to make some passes.

Anyhow, I deal with many GT350 customers. What we tend to to find that works the best, for the price and simplicity, is this.

CB005 Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit
BK055 Control Arm Bearing Upgrade
Ford Racing Toe Knuckle Bearings
TCA045 Bearing/Bearing Vertical Links

These parts are easy to install for the most part, and help the car is EVERY way, and really improve handling characteristics.

If I was going to do one of them only - personally, on a GT350, I would do the BK055.

Happy Modding!

 

[ThreeFiveO]

See post #7. Pointless rebuttal. It has more power and torque than a 5.0, should the 5.0 never be drag raced either and just street driven? See where this is going, and how pointless the "this is not a drag car" statement is? People drag race Subarus too, not exactly what they are made for, but they sure are quick and people have loads of fun doing so.

I would venture a guess that 95% of 350 buyers could care less about drag capabilities. If I wanted a drag car I would have bought a 5.0 and put a whipple on it.
I didn't see it as pointless when the 350 was touted as a track car.

 

[earlSpilner]

Ohhh My!

I didn't think this question would set people off so much.

I have tracked my car on a road course and it was really fun, however there is more drag tracks around where I am. So my question about wheel hop wasn't about making a road course car a drag car as much it was not breaking shit while drag racing a road course car question.

In case anyone is wondering a base GT350 definitely needs the trans cooler on a road course, even on a cool day.


Back on topic.
it seems like there is two approaches to getting rid of the wheel hop:
-there is the steeda bar re-enforcement method
-there is the BMR harder bushing / lockout method

I am not particularly sure which is better / easier. It seems from the videos there is not one "point" in the back that is flexing. It's a bit of everything.

I would like to thank BMR Tech for actually giving a real answer to this thread.

 

[Voodooo]

Ohhh My!

I didn't think this question would set people off so much.

I have tracked my car on a road course and it was really fun, however there is more drag tracks around where I am. So my question about wheel hop wasn't about making a road course car a drag car as much it was not breaking shit while drag racing a road course car question.

In case anyone is wondering a base GT350 definitely needs the trans cooler on a road course, even on a cool day.


Back on topic.
it seems like there is two approaches to getting rid of the wheel hop:
-there is the steeda bar re-enforcement method
-there is the BMR harder bushing / lockout method

I am not particularly sure which is better / easier. It seems from the videos there is not one "point" in the back that is flexing. It's a bit of everything.

I would like to thank BMR Tech for actually giving a real answer to this thread.

If I were you I'd get BMR lower rear control arm bearings to elimate the stock rubber bushings, toe links, and either the delrin IRS cradle bushings or lock out kit. I'd also get the ford performance toe bearings or if you get the BMR toe links, you can press out the stock toe link bearings and reuse them in the wheel bearing knuckles. That will replace the soft rubber in the knuckle where the toe link connects. If you street drive and chassis noise is a concern to you then do not do the differential bushing and leave them stock. I myself would go and remove every rubber bushing in the car, that's what I did to my gt350 anyhow. You don't really need the toe links or vertical links, but if you have the money, may as well. The biggest improvement will be the elimination of the rubber control arm bushings and the toe link bushings.

http://m.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&vehicleid=24&maincatid=118&catid=422

http://m.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&vehicleid=24&maincatid=118&catid=421

https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-5A460-M

 

[superman07]

Guys, there is nothing wrong with people wanting to drag race a car.

I have a car specifically designed for drag racing, and I also just picked up a PP GT that I am going to outfit with parts that cater towards better handling, including some GT350 parts on it....and I will still ride down to the drag strip every now and again to make some passes.

Anyhow, I deal with many GT350 customers. What we tend to to find that works the best, for the price and simplicity, is this.

CB005 Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit
BK055 Control Arm Bearing Upgrade
Ford Racing Toe Knuckle Bearings
TCA045 Bearing/Bearing Vertical Links

These parts are easy to install for the most part, and help the car is EVERY way, and really improve handling characteristics.

If I was going to do one of them only - personally, on a GT350, I would do the BK055.

Happy Modding!

Any car that cant handle, to me is boring no matter what it might be able to do in a straight line, but a car that handles but accelerates like a miata is also not my thing. I would like to be able to do both, within reason pushing the envelope up to the point one would need to dedicate to one or the other.

 

[earlSpilner]

If I were you I'd get BMR lower rear control arm bearings to elimate the stock rubber bushings, toe links, and either the delrin IRS cradle bushings or lock out kit. I'd also get the ford performance toe bearings or if you get the BMR toe links, you can press out the stock toe link bearings and reuse them in the wheel bearing knuckles. That will replace the soft rubber in the knuckle where the toe link connects. If you street drive and chassis noise is a concern to you then do not do the differential bushing and leave them stock. I myself would go and remove every rubber bushing in the car, that's what I did to my gt350 anyhow. You don't really need the toe links or vertical links, but if you have the money, may as well. The biggest improvement will be the elimination of the rubber control arm bushings and the toe link bushings.

http://m.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&vehicleid=24&maincatid=118&catid=422

http://m.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&vehicleid=24&maincatid=118&catid=421

https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-5A460-M

Am i correct in assuming any of these mods would not have any adverse effect in road course handling?

 

[Minn19]

If I wanted a drag car, I would've done one of these two things.

1. Kept my DCT M4, tuned it and put stickier wider tires on it.

2. I f I wanted a Ford Mustang drag car, I would've gotten the cheapest S550 Mustang GT PP I could find, supercharged it, put stickier tires on it and let er rip.

Yes, you can drag race a GT350, but it was not designed with that in mind so people are disappointed when they try to do it and you get threads like these.

Edit: or said fuck it and bought a Hellcat Charger/Challenger. So I guess one of four things.

 

[Voodooo]

Am i correct in assuming any of these mods would not have any adverse effect in road course handling?

It will improve handling.

 

[cjgt350]

The biggest improvement will be the elimination of the rubber control arm bushings and the toe link bushings.[/url]

What is your opinion on the amount of the NVH that will be increased by these bushing upgrades? So far everything I have done has not increased NVH but I have also been mindful of that as I consider mods to my suspension. I know your full mods once completed will increase NVH quite a bit but that is not for everybody. Been there done that.

Installed: Steeda vertical links and poly diff lockout bushings for the rear. Steeda 2 point trac brace, rear FTBR sway bar links and Vorshalg camber plates for the front.

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