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PMAS Intake Systems from UPR Products. TUNE AND NO TUNE INTAKES

Terminator2

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Thanks. I think going from having support at the back to simply hanging it on bolts on one side is a very bad idea. Assuming you have one on your car, does the tab now sit behind the slot? The reason I ask is because it would be simple to fab up a support to give it proper support. It would be a little annoying to buy a new product and then have to fix it, but I could do it.
Seems more like it was intended as an alignment or locator tab to me. For what it's worth the bracket doesn't give when I try to flex it it moves the plastic fan shroud it's bolted to a little but overall it seems secure and that tank weighs next to nothing.
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VoodooBear

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Thanks. I think going from having support at the back to simply hanging it on bolts on one side is a very bad idea. Assuming you have one on your car, does the tab now sit behind the slot? The reason I ask is because it would be simple to fab up a support to give it proper support. It would be a little annoying to buy a new product and then have to fix it, but I could do it.
Sits to the left of the mounting slot.
 

Genxer

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Seems more like it was intended as an alignment or locator tab to me. For what it's worth the bracket doesn't give when I try to flex it it moves the plastic fan shroud it's bolted to a little but overall it seems secure and that tank weighs next to nothing.
I dunno, those kinds of things bother me. Ford spent the resources to put that on the car. It is a locator but it also has stop point, which is a third point of contact to carry the load. If I buy this intake it will get an extra bracket in the back. Depending on where the tab hangs down I could make an L bracket that slips into the original slot with an offset slot built in, to accept the tank tab. If anyone has a pic of where the tab sits after the install, that would be awesome.
 

MyFirst5.0

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I dunno, those kinds of things bother me. Ford spent the resources to put that on the car. It is a locator but it also has stop point, which is a third point of contact to carry the load. If I buy this intake it will get an extra bracket in the back. Depending on where the tab hangs down I could make an L bracket that slips into the original slot with an offset slot built in, to accept the tank tab. If anyone has a pic of where the tab sits after the install, that would be awesome.
like others said, that is an alignment bracket. once you move the tank over and tighten it up, that tab will make zero difference on it moving or not
 

Poppacapp

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I just received my no-tune kit I purchased from another owner. I did not have to move my coolant tank and can close the hood just fine without the elbow sitting on the fan shroud.

Also of note... did a could of datalogs, and compared to one I did before with stock intake. Fuel trims remain pretty much the same with the addition of a little over a lb/hr of maf flow. So definite increase. My buttmeter is not calibrated enough to feel 10hp tho.. but I am sure it will show on trap/et.
 

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Genxer

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I just received my no-tune kit I purchased from another owner. I did not have to move my coolant tank and can close the hood just fine without the elbow sitting on the fan shroud.

Also of note... did a could of datalogs, and compared to one I did before with stock intake. Fuel trims remain pretty much the same with the addition of a little over a lb/hr of maf flow. So definite increase. My buttmeter is not calibrated enough to feel 10hp tho.. but I am sure it will show on trap/et.
Seriously considering. If the mounting doesn't suit me, I can design something. Interesting that you didn't move the tank. When you say fuel trim do you mean A/F? I know squat about tuning, only that it is important to maintain proper ratio. What numbers did you see?
 

Poppacapp

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Seriously considering. If the mounting doesn't suit me, I can design something. Interesting that you didn't move the tank. When you say fuel trim do you mean A/F? I know squat about tuning, only that it is important to maintain proper ratio. What numbers did you see?
I am not expert enough to explain fuel trims in detail... all I know is you want them to be as close to 1.0 as possible. Lower or higher means the car is making adjustments over the tune. No changes in the fuel trims mean I believe that the CAI made no difference in how the car adjusts fuel, so the extra airflow gained is actual power.

Someone please correct me if I am wrong. Still trying to learn the tuning stuff.

As far as a/f ratios go, I only look at Lambda. With 93 and E85 they will both have different A/F ratios.. with Lambda, both will be the same.. ie you want to target .85 Lambda on bank 1 and 2 on NA setup with both 93 AND E85. High .70s for FI(Richer)
 

Slater_5.0

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Just ordered the tune required pmas and a Lund tune from Lethal. I was debating waiting for the PP2 from Ford Racing but said screw it after reading through this entire thread. Appreciate the information from everybody... now the waiting game starts.
 

Jay-rod427

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I am not expert enough to explain fuel trims in detail... all I know is you want them to be as close to 1.0 as possible. Lower or higher means the car is making adjustments over the tune. No changes in the fuel trims mean I believe that the CAI made no difference in how the car adjusts fuel, so the extra airflow gained is actual power.

Someone please correct me if I am wrong. Still trying to learn the tuning stuff.

As far as a/f ratios go, I only look at Lambda. With 93 and E85 they will both have different A/F ratios.. with Lambda, both will be the same.. ie you want to target .85 Lambda on bank 1 and 2 on NA setup with both 93 AND E85. High .70s for FI(Richer)
Spot on with one caveat. There is long term and short term trims. Short term doesn't mean as much because it is constantly adjusting to get perfection. Long term is just as it sounds over a longer average adjustment. But as you said 1.0 means no change. any +/- it is trying to adjust for some reason. After some driving after a change in the system both should eventually average out back to 1.0 as the system learns what it needs. With the no tune you should not see any drastic changes in fuel trims, as the expected fuel matches what the MAF is reading.
 

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For what it's worth I have been paying more attention to the air/fuel readings in the gage menu. It seems that the car is pretty constant save for slight fluctuations, and then things like decel show it spiking higher. I want to get used to looking at it to see if the readings differ with a new intake. What I am reading about the PMAS, indicates it will be calibrated properly (MAF), so that the car's ecu can make proper adjustment for the increased air. I will get to see for myself how it performs next week.
 

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MrWolf

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Finished installing the PMAS. :clap2:

Haven't had a chance to try it out yet (hopefully tomorrow)

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Thinkn3D

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I see one potential fitment issue (for me). I have the JLT 3.0 oil separator, and moving the coolant tank over an inch might make the it rub on the separator. I'll have to tinker around and see if I can make some space. I have access to a machine shop so it might a simple matter of a making a modified relocator bracket. If I could get away with less than an inch of movement it might work.
Just installed my PMAS. I have a UPR catch can. I just loosen the bolts to the coolant tank, installed the PMAS and then held the coolant tank to the left and tighten down the coolant tank bolts.



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Genxer

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Just installed my PMAS. I have a UPR catch can. I just loosen the bolts to the coolant tank, installed the PMAS and then held the coolant tank to the left and tighten down the coolant tank bolts.



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Thanks for the info. I should be fine and already decided to purchase this intake. Coming next week. Does your tank touch the intake tube?

I decided that if I'm going to do an intake I want big flow. It should never be a bottleneck to any other bolt-on I do in the future.
 

Terminator2

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Just installed my PMAS. I have a UPR catch can. I just loosen the bolts to the coolant tank, installed the PMAS and then held the coolant tank to the left and tighten down the coolant tank bolts.



aviary-photo_13118037876794251.png
That's going to rub a hole in something over time especially as the engine moves under torque. I would definitely move the coolant tank over.
 

MyFirst5.0

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Just installed my PMAS. I have a UPR catch can. I just loosen the bolts to the coolant tank, installed the PMAS and then held the coolant tank to the left and tighten down the coolant tank bolts.



aviary-photo_13118037876794251.png
why didnt you use the bracket they supplied? agree with above those 2 pieces rubbing together is not good
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