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FI Auto drag tips?

desant89

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Ok, so my car is about dialed in. I would like to get to the track soon. I currently have:

2015 GT Premium Auto, 3.15 gears, Whipple stage 2 with 72# Injectors, 3.625 pulley, 132tb, KB BAP, pypes headers with off road pipes, and flowmaster axle back.

For tires, I liked the look of the upgraded 20's mine came with (non pp), but that limited me to Nitto 555r 275/40/20.

Can someone walk me through running this thing?

Pretty sure you hold the TC button in for 5-10 to turn that stuff off.
Do you drive it in D or S? Track mode? How hard would you launch? I know launching will be a feel thing, but what's a good starting point. I have been to the track maybe 5 times so I do not have a ton of experience. Thanks!
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desant89

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zaquhree

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zaquhree

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For your first time take it easy. I got lucky and ran 10.8@129 my first pass ever and then 10.7@130 next pass but it doesn't always go that way.

You need to go with the intentions of learning not performing.

Step 1) get ready and get yourself in a good mindset. Go over the car and make sure she's ready to rock.
Step 2) make sure you let it cool, maybe throw a bag of ice (wrapped well so it doesn't drop) on the blower to help
Step 3) walk the track before running. They'll usually let you check out the strip. Find the groove. You'll notice two grayish strips and the rest a darker black. The strips are where the rubber is and you want your tires in it. Make sure you run your car with the prep cars (you'll see them clean and lay prep before this group goes)
Step 4) this is more of how to drive it. Get in and hold TCS off for 5-10 seconds until you see ADVANCED TRACK OFF. Then you need to do your line lock burnout and get them sticky (3-5 seconds at 40mph-50mph 2nd gear worked well for me.
Step 5) make a test pass and see how it hooks 1-2 and be ready to LIFT...do not stay in it.


How to launch:

This depends on your car and track.

A whipple will like flashing which is leaving from idle and stomping it

You can also try to get on the brakes HARD and bring up to 1500-1800-2000-2200 and see if he track will hold it
 

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lxh89

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Step 2) make sure you let it cool, maybe throw a bag of ice (wrapped well so it doesn't drop) on the blower to help
Don't ice the blower. You're only cooling the case while the rotors will heat up. The clearances in a twin screw are close so if a case doesn't expand in proportion to the rotors spinning inside, guess what could happen?
 
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desant89

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zaquhree

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Don't ice the blower. You're only cooling the case while the rotors will heat up. The clearances in a twin screw are close so if a case doesn't expand in proportion to the rotors spinning inside, guess what could happen?
I mean I'm not too sure how tight these blowers are but the TVS/Eatons were fine with it. I doubt cooling the housing would cause catastrophic failure with a bag of ice. Maybe a towel would add some protection
 

Burnin4

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Yes, press and hold the AH/TC button for 8-10 seconds until they are disabled. Leave the car is D, stage as shallow as possible (barely triggering the 2nd staging light), put your left foot on the brake and your right foot on the gas, bring the rpms up to around 2k, mash the GO pedal while releasing the brake once you are ready. Don't pay any attention to the green lights, your clock doesn't start until you move. Do a line lock burnout for 6-8 seconds, 18 psi in drag radials. I don't think a 275 Nitto is gonna hold much, lower the pressure from 18-16 if you crush the tires on your first pass, and do a longer burnout.

I usually arrive at the strip, air my tires down and get in the staging lanes within 30 minutes of arrival, and I make pass's 2 at a time then cool for 30 mins. Our cars run better/high mph at warmer/hot temps. Film every pass so you can go back and watch again, become a student, successful drag racing takes practice, even with an auto. good luck, post up your results!

Here's 2 vids of me doing burnouts, staging, bring up my rpms, and launching. I consistently cut 1.4's and 1.5's on 20's, stock stall, stock shocks, so I know my advice will work, haha.



 

PowerAdderGT

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Whipple tune pulls timing if you power brake, leaving off ideal will most likely result in better times from what I have gathered.
 

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Burnin4

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Whipple tune pulls timing if you power brake, leaving off ideal will most likely result in better times from what I have gathered.
Ugh, that really sucks, I guess that's why no one with a whipple tune is cutting 1.4's on 20's and stock stall. I didn't think he had a whipple tune since he had off road exhaust.
 
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desant89

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Ugh, that really sucks, I guess that's why no one with a whipple tune is cutting 1.4's on 20's and stock stall. I didn't think he had a whipple tune since he had off road exhaust.
I do not have the Whipple tune (I have it for comparison purposes, but not loaded) . Ken B also tuning mine. Just doing a few WOT pulls today to test shift points, and mine will be done. One thing I did not see, do you run in track mode when at the track? I was going to ask Ken, but I have since realized you are also running his tune. Thanks again!
 

Burnin4

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I do not have the Whipple tune (I have it for comparison purposes, but not loaded) . Ken B also tuning mine. Just doing a few WOT pulls today to test shift points, and mine will be done. One thing I did not see, do you run in track mode when at the track? I was going to ask Ken, but I have since realized you are also running his tune. Thanks again!
ok whew, you got a ken B tune, you're good. Load up the stock stall to 2k and let her rip. I put my car in Track mode, leave it in drive and let the car shift itself. datalog your pass and Ken will constantly refine till it's perfect, much of the 60ft is tuning.
 
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desant89

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ok whew, you got a ken B tune, you're good. Load up the stock stall to 2k and let her rip. I put my car in Track mode, leave it in drive and let the car shift itself. datalog your pass and Ken will constantly refine till it's perfect, much of the 60ft is tuning.
I just did a few wot runs letting it shift so he can set shift points.... Man that was tough... Never stopped pulling. I was worried that all the tuning was just for normal mode.... Didn't realize it carries over to track mode. I am going to get to a dyno soon. Like to log that and send that to him before hitting the track.
 

Burnin4

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I wouldn't worry about taking logs on the dyno unless you want to see a #. Ken's gonna get it all with just logs from the street and strip. I take logs for both so he can monitor driveability as well as real world WOT pulls for racing, neither of which you get from the dyno. I also include an obligatory 50-150 pull to optimize my runs for when I'm in Mexico.
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