AFR Gauge "jumpy" After Steeda CAI Install

[DropTop66]

Just finished installing a Steeda CAI on my 2015 GT 5.0 and after double checking everything, started her up to find that the AFR gauge which I have set to display was not stable at 14.0 as it had been at idle but was jumping up and down a couple of hash marks around 14.0. The restriction sleeve was installed and the car has no tuner. Only other mod is Gibson cat-back.
Is this variance in the reading the computer learning about the new intake and change in air past the MAF or what?? I'm new to this moding stuff and would appreciate some expertise.

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[yellowstangatl]

Do you have a tune for the intake or did you install the restrictor?

 

[DropTop66]

Sorry, the restrictor sleeve is in place and no tune. Basically just a swap-out for the OEM intake.

 

[yellowstangatl]

Make sure you check that everything is connected tight sounds like unmetered air is getting in through a loose clamp.

 

[Doctor Fishtail]

Make sure you check that everything is connected tight sounds like unmetered air is getting in through a loose clamp.

Agreed.

 

[assclown]

Make sure you check that everything is connected tight sounds like unmetered air is getting in through a loose clamp.

Funny enough, on the other side of the border I did the install as well of Steeda CAI w/restrictor today; how much variance in AFR is allowed (if any) at idle? I will go and start mine up and report back.

:(

 

[DropTop66]

During a bench check before the install I had some concern about the large size of the coupling sleeve (4.5" ID) at the MAF end when the mating aluminum tube measured 4.25" OD. I called Steeda and one of their techs said that was the case normally and just be sure to tighten it down good. I installed this part of the sleeve on the bench and checked for light leaks around the perimeter but found none so I went forward with the install.
Is it crazy to spray some starting ether around this sleeve with the car at idle to see it it picks up RPM for a moment??

 

[assclown]

During a bench check before the install I had some concern about the large size of the coupling sleeve (4.5" ID) at the MAF end when the mating aluminum tube measured 4.25" OD. I called Steeda and one of their techs said that was the case normally and just be sure to tighten it down good. I installed this part of the sleeve on the bench and checked for light leaks around the perimeter but found none so I went forward with the install.
Is it crazy to spray some starting ether around this sleeve with the car at idle to see it it picks up RPM for a moment??

I'm not sure about spraying around the sleeve :shrug:

:frusty: I didn't try to dry fit anything first, but this would explain why there is a huge bulge over the aluminum tube where it meets the sleeve. I was trying to place the sleeve over the tube, but to no avail. I centered it as best I could and used an impact to tighten the clamps. I will take a pic in the morning when it's light.

[MENTION=22152]DropTop66[/MENTION], please take a look at the pic tomorrow let me know if it looks like yours.

 

[DropTop66]

Dee
See Figure 7 of the Steeda instruction for the 555-3193 CAI. That band clamp next to the MAF mounting is the one which I had to really crank down to get the sleeve to seal (or so I thought). I did not notice the sleeve bulging out anywhere after tightening so I'm not sure what that issue is that you have.
I'll check out your images tomorrow near midday.

 

[Hurricane]

If you're worried about air leakage around the sleeve or it isn't fitting right, try warming it up just a bit with a hair dryer first. It'll be more pliable and will fit better.

Also, I would NOT use an impact driver on the screw clamps. A ratchet, sure, but definitely not an impact driver. Too hard to control how tight you're actually torquing it down. You don't want the clamp to dig into the sleeve itself.

 

[assclown]

[MENTION=22345]Hurricane[/MENTION] thank you for the tips - very simple yet effective. Regarding the impact, I meant to say I used a driver with a socket attachment and did the last few turns by hand.

[MENTION=22152]DropTop66[/MENTION] thank you for the pointer. I checked the install this morning, and found that 1/4 of the aluminum tube was in the sleeve, and the end 180 degrees to it was out. I took everything off, and tried to create a uniform mating gap around both the sleeve and aluminum tube. It's a shame that Steeda did not construct the sleeve to fit OVER the tube.

Here is a video of my AFR. At warm idle, the AFR will fluctuate between 13.9 to 14.2 in a very noticeable repeating pattern. I never looked at this stock, so I have nothing to compare it to yet. I have asked a friend with the same intake to take a look.

[ame]

Also, attached are images of the install and re-tightened clamps. The sleeve has a bulge (that's what she said) around the edge, and I think that combined with the clamps being super tight are exaggerating the look.

Let me know what you guys think.

PS - in case you are wondering I did use washers to attach the tube to the billet box as seen in the pix

 

[Hurricane]

I don't think that slight bulge is anything to worry about. The outside diameters of the aluminum tube and the plastic tube are different, so the section where it downsizes may appear as a bulge.

When I first installed the intake, that sleeve as well as the one that goes to the throttle body were a bit crooked for me, so after a day of driving the car, I loosened the clamps and straightened them both out. The heat from the engine running made the rubber more pliable and easier to get on there straight. Here's a shot of mine for reference...

 

[Chach805]

Your AFRs are fine. At least at idle.

 

[Higgs Boson]

oxygen sensors switch around stoich in closed loop at idle and part throttle. it's bouncing around 14.08 which is stoich for E10 and whats programmed into the tune so it's totally normal. it does the same thing stock.

 

[djpheer]

AFR is normal.

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