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Question about shifting from 1st to 2nd gear

OracleHCR

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Like I've said. I've never looked at it. I'm just going by what I've read. Argue with Steeda. Not me.
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Joe 5.0

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1. Replace the clutch spring with the $10 Steeda spring (Very easy -- all you need is a set of needle nose vise grips).

2. Pay attention to the rev hang issue. Listen to the engine and act accordingly. If you hear and feel the RPM's hanging in one spot for a few seconds, keep the clutch pressed in, then release as you would when they drop back down.

3. Try giving it more throttle and shift around 3k to 4k from a stop. I have noticed I can avoid the rev hang when shift like this.

4. Practice (I still don't have it down pat)!
 

MarkH

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1. Replace the clutch spring with the $10 Steeda spring (Very easy -- all you need is a set of needle nose vise grips).

2. Pay attention to the rev hang issue. Listen to the engine and act accordingly. If you hear and feel the RPM's hanging in one spot for a few seconds, keep the clutch pressed in, then release as you would when they drop back down.

3. Try giving it more throttle and shift around 3k to 4k from a stop. I have noticed I can avoid the rev hang when shift like this.

4. Practice (I still don't have it down pat)!
I must be babying mine, normally shift between 2.5 -
3k unless I want to go fasst
 

Joe 5.0

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I must be babying mine, normally shift between 2.5 -
3k unless I want to go fasst
That is the RPM range I used to shift in, but I found that the car kept having the rev hang issue. Maybe it is all in my head, but it works for me, lol.
 

daltron

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I realize they are trying to sell a product but, here:
"Many new Mustang owners have found that taking out the stock OE spring will give you somewhat similar results, but realistically the clutch becomes far too heavy especially if your Mustang is daily driven. Most owners fail to realize the prolonged effects of simply taking out your factory OE spring and not replacing it with another spring. By negating your factory clutch assist spring you will notice chatter/NVH from your clutch pedal. Your clutch pedal will never fully return to stock position without any assist spring, and over time your slave cylinder may begin leaking due to constant pressure on its seals from the clutch pedal not returning to the stock position. Avoid these problems in the future by installing our Steeda S550 Mustang Clutch Assist Spring 35 lb/in into your GT, EcoBoost or V6.
-"
I've never even looked at the clutch assist spring. I'm just going by what I have read. I personally have no problem with the clutch on this vehicle. Because of my past job experiences, I've driven hundreds of vehicles with manual transmissions. Tractors, trucks, utility vehicles, etc.... Then throw in the number of vehicles I have owned, most of them being standards, and you learn to adapt. The clutch on this vehicle is fine. It just takes practice and getting used to.
Take the spring out, it drives significantly better. Don't knock it until you try it. You can always put it back in.
 

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Evil Minion

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Like I've said. I've never looked at it. I'm just going by what I've read. Argue with Steeda. Not me.
No one's really trying to start an argument on this issue again, but the problem people have is when you and others like you try to pass off these rumors as facts.

And to the OP, yeah, the 1-2 shift is tricky to do smoothly on most modern manual sportscars. I learned to DD a manual on my last BRZ, and it took a few good months to figure out how to get a seamless 1-2 shift. I still have the occasional small lurches now maybe 1-10 shifts. So as others have said, practice, practice, practice. Your stretch goal should be a clutch engagement that is undetectable by anyone else in the car :thumbsup:
 

BiloxiFun

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If you have the the 3.73 rear end I have found starting off in 2nd is MUCH better in stop and go traffic...

But something about starting at 1st and then shifting into 2nd after coming around a corner makes me happy.
 

Genxer

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I've started off in 2nd a few times but I figure the only way to learn is to do the 1-2 shift often. Skipping 1st is not a bad option when the trans is cold. Mine seems to be more notchy for the first block or so. Always been that way.

In my first test drive of a manual S550 I almost stalled it. The clutch feel was nowhere near as intuitive as anything else I had driven in the past. I have been spoiled by how slick my Honda operates. If my Mustang was that smooth I would hear angels singing when I row through the gears. Of course the Honda is a cable-operated transaxle so you don't get as much feedback but it falls into gear with no drama.
 

MarkH

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That is the RPM range I used to shift in, but I found that the car kept having the rev hang issue. Maybe it is all in my head, but it works for me, lol.
Can't say I've noticed the rev hang in my '16, may want to have that checked out
 

OracleHCR

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No one's really trying to start an argument on this issue again, but the problem people have is when you and others like you try to pass off these rumors as facts.
People like me? I quoted Steeda's website. Take it up with them.
 

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DanielIvan

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Hi,

I've got limited experience with driving a manual. When I shift from 1st to 2nd at low speed if I get off the clutch fast the car kind of lurches forward. I've started to do a more gradual letting off the clutch.

Thanks
Got my girl in December (first stick shift ever) and still can't get it right on a 1:1 ratio. I've corrected the issue by revving up to at least 3-4k and letting them drop to around 2.5k before releasing the clutch and hitting the throttle. In my experience, it's made for a smooth 1-2 shift but I can't figure it out when I'm trying to drive spiritedly. Sometimes I get it right when I'm not even trying to and therefore don't even pay attention to what I did on the pedals.

On the bright side, at least we're no longer stalling.
 
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My car is in for Tran problem, there is a noise coming out when i'm in 1st and 2nd, so they're dropping it down to see whats going on and said that t might not be under warranty if its a wear and tear problem, the car is with only 9k on it
 

MarkH

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Roush related problem then?
 

DanielIvan

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My car is in for Tran problem, there is a noise coming out when i'm in 1st and 2nd, so they're dropping it down to see whats going on and said that t might not be under warranty if its a wear and tear problem, the car is with only 9k on it

Now that you mention weird noises, I also get a weird noise but in idle. It sounds like a soft rotating grind. Car only has 1.7k miles on it.

Any ideas?


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JamesinLittleSilver

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Funny I think I have driven well over half million miles with a stick, I quit thinking about all these things until I had to teach my daughter to drive one. Practice is key.
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