Wheel lug torque

[MAGS1]

150 unless you change the studs, then go by whatever that stud manufacturer says. It will also be different (lower) if you use anti-seize like @Prodigal does. As mentioned above, it’s all based on bolt size and clamping force needed to secure the wheels on said bolts. If a certain wheel can’t handle 150 ft/lbs (especially if they’re claimed to be made specifically for S550 fitment), I don’t want any part of them. A wheel should be able to handle that torque value with no issues. Even the carbon fiber wheels on the GT350R and GT500 CFTP are torqued to 150.

Sponsored

 

[Southview]

You guys that don’t do 150 are funny. You realize the amount of force to go from 120 to 150ft/lbs is nothing. I was one of those guys originally. Thought to myself. No way 150. They are going to snap. Didn’t realize that the difference from 120 to 150 is nothing. And, use very very little anti seize if any. I’m talking about just enough to coat the first 2 threads of the wheel stud.

 

[Scuba]

I use Dorman 711-655E lugnuts on my AR Drift wheels- the contact cone is smaller, so originally I torqued them to 120ftlbs, then later upped it to 130ftbls. I haven't had any issues and they have been holding steady @127-131ftlbs (according to my never been calibrated torque wrench) for five years now.
My understanding is torque stretches the studs according to what the engineers have calculated the correct stretch for the type of steel the studs are made of- that being said, I should probably go ahead and torque 'em on up to 150ftlbs.

 

[stannypack]

idk but I always did 130 on my ecoboost even with bolt on spacers and they never backed off. I've taken the GT on a couple trips and a track day and no backing off either. I get <10 mpg too if that tells you how I drive it everyday

 

[RobZ71LM7]

125-130 but I have OP Mustang coated lug nuts and ARP studs which they recommend reducing the torque because of the coating.

 

[adeuel]

LaFerrari with the center locks is 516.3! Lol.

 

[Mark23GT]

I had the same thoughts when i got my first S550, but go with the 150, and recheck the torque after driving it first time after putting on the wheels. can get a nice torque wrench at harbor freight for a good price too. Icon brand it is called .

 

[TRDFurgesson]

150ft lb wheels cool to the touch. If your car is stock don’t go less than 150. This is something that needs to be checked on the reg. Specially, if you track your car.

 

[Wraith_S550]

Factory torque spec is fine they are 14mm studs. Also NEVER use anti seize on lug nuts/ wheel studs. The factory torque spec is a Dry torque spec and if you apply anti seize it works like a lubricant and will cause you to over torque the lug nuts causing the wheel stud to eventually break.

 

[murick]

I was also a bit hesitant first when I read the specs, but after I actually did it myself on my wheels I realized that the specified torque is far from breaking the studs or the nuts (or the wheels).
Plus there is an important note in the user manual, which says, you should check the torque after 100 miles (or so) after the wheels have been retorqued. Which I did and indeed found some needed (some) more love torque.
So I guess it actually looks like a good idea to follow the recommendations in the user manual .

 

[Paul McWhiskey]

I had the same thoughts when i got my first S550, but go with the 150, and recheck the torque after driving it first time after putting on the wheels. can get a nice torque wrench at harbor freight for a good price too. Icon brand it is called .

I also recheck torque after driving a bit. Interesting how sometimes the torque will be several pounds lower on one or two nuts. I don’t drive it hard so I really don’t think that it can be attributable to heat.

 

[WildHorse]

IF aftermarket companies are telling you 120-130ft-lbs, that's cause the mounting pad is too thin, or designed in such a way it may cause cracking around the lugs. The price you pay for 'light-weight"

 

[21M5033]

Thanks for the insight all. When I took the factory wheels off, they were definitely less than 150. Regardless, I re-torqued to 150 when I put back on.

 

[Garfy]

Yes I follow the directions written by Ford engineers.

Never a problem with any wheels I've used. Never had a lug nut loosen or a stud break.

And I always use anti-seize as well.

Industry standard is to never put anything on the stud threads; just keep it clean and dry. Putting anti-seize or any other lube on it will reduce friction and end up potentially causing more stress/tension to stretch the stud further since the nut will turn further for the given torque than without any lube on it. I know some guys who put anti-seize on the threads because there was some damage to the threads so the lube made it easier to tighten the nuts without causing them to gall or strip. But, the best solution is to replace both stud and nut. If anti-seize was required, the factory would have them on the studs when they manufactured the cars.

 

[RagmopInKona]

Factory torque spec is fine they are 14mm studs. Also NEVER use anti seize on lug nuts/ wheel studs. The factory torque spec is a Dry torque spec and if you apply anti seize it works like a lubricant and will cause you to over torque the lug nuts causing the wheel stud to eventually break.

I use it on back side of wheel flange and centering lip sparingly to keep from the wheel getting stuck to the rotor, wheel hub .

Sponsored