OEM Differential Oil Cooler Install

[rb92gt]

Hey Tank, kgschrader, jwb, rb92gt, cking, Hack, GT_Dave and others..

I have been reading the post on adding the Diff Temp sensor to a Tech Pack car. Really exhausting...I did notice that in the threads it was mentioned that some of you were initially just going to add the sensor to monitor the temps, before you would add the cooler.

I think I would also like to monitor the temps before proceeding with the cooler addition. I have cut and pasted into the attached image what I have understood from this thread is required, please correct me if I am wrong !

2 questions;
Do any of you know the pin connectors that are required to attach the wires from the sensor pigtail to the C264 connector? Where to get?

Can any one add a photo of the Diff cover where the sensor is mounted, preferably if you are not using the Track Pack car wiring harness? DIY.

Really appreciate all the effort that has gone into this thread, you guys are true enthusiasts...

Thanks,

Kev

You could just splice into 21 and 4, best solution would be to find the exact pin that fits in the connector opposite the vehicle side of the connector, crimp them onto your new wires, then plug them into the connector. If we found the right pins, they would probably cost $0.25, lol

Sponsored

 

[jwb]

KevDog,

As Tank indicated, I used Mouser (See earlier in this thread for a little more; p. 8ish):
For C264 LH kick panel,
306-SAITW-A03T-064
JST Automotive Connectors MALE .64

I can mail a few to you if you want to PM me.

Thanks,
John

 

[KevDog]

Thanks to Tank, jwb, GT_Dave and rb92gt;

I have the differential sensor monitoring the temp...I have not threaded it into the diff yet, so as you can see the temp is the ambient temp of my garage.

 

[Tank]

Thanks to Tank, jwb, GT_Dave and rb92gt;

I have the differential sensor monitoring the temp...I have not threaded it into the diff yet, so as you can see the temp is the ambient temp of my garage.

Excellent [MENTION=23475]KevDog[/MENTION]! Wish my garage was 17 C :lol:

 

[JAJ]

Thanks to Tank, jwb, GT_Dave and rb92gt;

I have the differential sensor monitoring the temp...I have not threaded it into the diff yet, so as you can see the temp is the ambient temp of my garage.

You need to live in a warmer climate

 

[Gilby]

Thanks to Tank, jwb, GT_Dave and rb92gt;

I have the differential sensor monitoring the temp...I have not threaded it into the diff yet, so as you can see the temp is the ambient temp of my garage.

You give me hope that I will get all of the things working on my Tech Pack eventually. Then I will fully love the car instead of being frustrated about the lack of coolers, until I start it anyway...:cheers:

 

[rb92gt]

Just an Update

A couple people have asked me how my temps have been running since I activated my display Axle and Trans temp gauges and installed my diff temp sensor. I have installed a transmission cooler and prewired for an axle cooler but haven't installed the axle cooler yet. Have had a few days in the 80s recently and have driven a few hours at a time (street only, no track). My axle temp is consistently 5-15% lower than my trans temp at all times (until I turn on my trans cooler of course). I turn it on at about 170 degrees and within minutes it drops to the 140s (which is then below my axle temp). Went on a spirited drive of a desolate highway and the hottest I could get the axle was 175, although was mostly straight, not many curves, so would get much hotter if I was on a track.

 

[rb92gt]

Differential Cooler Kit

Sorry if it's already mentioned but I can't seem to find it. What is the point of changing the rear diff cover if we install the OEM rear diff cooler kit to the drain and fill ports? Seems like that adds a ton of work (and cost). All the parts individually (minus the kit electrical harness, as I want to connect a simple switch myself) come to about $900, vs. $2,000 for the kit. Not to mention all the work required to change the diff cover. I could probably do the job in a few hours without changing the diff cover.

 

[jwb]

Sorry if it's already mentioned but I can't seem to find it. What is the point of changing the rear diff cover if we install the OEM rear diff cooler kit to the drain and fill ports? Seems like that adds a ton of work (and cost). All the parts individually (minus the kit electrical harness, as I want to connect a simple switch myself) come to about $900, vs. $2,000 for the kit. Not to mention all the work required to change the diff cover.

It is some serious work to remove the cover. The main reason I did it, and this is purely speculation, was to avoid potential aeration of the oil. The return line sits slightly lower than the fill. The oil returning will return below the surface and be less likely to aerate. If you use the fill as the return and don't overfill, the oil will be being pumped into air. If you overfill to prevent this, perhaps oil out the vent is the worst outcome. I know others have used the fill for return. I haven't seen any negative feedback. The change in lubrication from the air bubbles may be small. You could try it and do a drain after running the pump and see how the fluid looks (you might have to have a track pack friend drain theirs to compare).

 

[bmarco]

First, thanks to you all for developing this info, especially JWB, just ordered the parts to activate my diff temp gauge to monitor temps before going to the cooler option. I already have the trans cooler, so I am already inclined to go with a diff cooler too but want to retain the OEM diff temp gauge. Again, thank you all.

 

[bmarco]

For any of you who have done the wiring for the diff temp gauge only and made the mistake of removing the small red pin alignment piece while adding the two wires in the 264 connector, got any hints on getting it back in ? Getting all of those tiny pins lined up with those tiny holes is a real pain ! if you plan to do this, taking the precaution of not moving that piece past the existing pins (there is an intermediate lock but it still will move easily) will save you a lot of grief !!! Once I get through this, I will add info to this thread for noobs like me on getting this done.

 

[Leonard]

For any of you who have done the wiring for the diff temp gauge only and made the mistake of removing the small red pin alignment piece while adding the two wires in the 264 connector, got any hints on getting it back in ? Getting all of those tiny pins lined up with those tiny holes is a real pain ! if you plan to do this, taking the precaution of not moving that piece past the existing pins (there is an intermediate lock but it still will move easily) will save you a lot of grief !!! Once I get through this, I will add info to this thread for noobs like me on getting this done.

Look more closely at the female side... the pins don't go through the holes in the lock they go into the divots on the sides of the red lock.

 

[jwb]

For any of you who have done the wiring for the diff temp gauge only and made the mistake of removing the small red pin alignment piece while adding the two wires in the 264 connector, got any hints on getting it back in ? Getting all of those tiny pins lined up with those tiny holes is a real pain ! if you plan to do this, taking the precaution of not moving that piece past the existing pins (there is an intermediate lock but it still will move easily) will save you a lot of grief !!! Once I get through this, I will add info to this thread for noobs like me on getting this done.

Look more closely at the female side... the pins don't go through the holes in the lock they go into the divots on the sides of the red lock.

Did it a few times. It is a pita. With some patience it's workable.
Start by making sure all the pins are in their sockets and not too far into the connector. The lock prevents them from backing out. However, without the red piece in, there is nothing to prevent them from going further in.
Install the red piece gently as far as it will go until it just touches one pin. The pins will be at varying positions because nothing is holding them in place. Use something like the pin removal tool to gently pull the pin that's touching toward the center of the connector to clear the red piece while gently pushing the red piece a little further in. Try to get as many of the pins to clear at a time as you can; doesn't have to be one at a time.
Keep working this process until all the pins are clear of the red piece and it slides the rest of the way in. It is very tedious and frustrating. You may have to restart a few times. Like you said, keeping it at the intermediate position is recommended.

 

[bmarco]

OMG, I have been trying to get them through the holes !!! No wonder I have been so stymied. I am sure it is still not going to be easy but it would have to be easier than putting them in the wrong place !!! Many thanks to both of you !

 

[Leonard]

OMG, I have been trying to get them through the holes !!! No wonder I have been so stymied. I am sure it is still not going to be easy but it would have to be easier than putting them in the wrong place !!! Many thanks to both of you !

I know the feeling... trust me... lol. After the practice you've had trying to line them up to slip through the holes it'll go together easy now.

Sponsored