09jsw
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2014
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- 1,298
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- East coast
- Vehicle(s)
- 2015 Guard PP GT
The manual shafts cost a lot more.
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Why I do not know... makes me want to cry. :doh:The manual shafts cost a lot more.
Same here and why are the auto shafts cheaper.Sorry to pop in but where is everyone getting the Dynotech aluminum driveshafts for the GT for $500-$600? I can only find them for about a $1000.
I HOPE it's because they have to do a lot less balancing to get them to not cause NVH. But I suspect it's because M/T drivers want driveshafts more than auto drivers and therefore they can charge more for them. I local driveshaft shop quoted me $560 to custom make one for my car but it would be balanced only to 6500 rpm. They said that would be totally fine and frankly I believe them. The $800-$1100 pricetag of these includes R&D shipping, warehousing, and mad profit margin.
Here's another full length DS option for the MT82 S550:
https://gforce1320.com/product/mustang-s550-2015-3-5-aluminum-driveshaft-manual/
I have the exact issue and I found my subframe looks to be off centered slightly from when a shop did the suspension install.I have a shaftmasters aluminum. I have annoying vibration around 50 with the stock driveshaft. Which was exaggerated with the aluminum one. I also had a vibration right at 80mph with the aluminum driveshaft, which doesn't stop until 95-100. The extra response is great. The car shifted my better. I did not try indexing the driveshaft. I've since pulled it and will be dropping it off at a local race shop to check the balance. I have a feeling either the pinion angle is messed up or the rearend is off center. If you're racing a fair amount. It's definitely worth it.
After you get gour car back from the shop you should do the indexing just to see if that fixes it. If it doesn't then you can rule that out! Its a known fact that some of these cars come with mis aligned rear ends even the s-197's did. If thats the case then the steeda subframe alignment kit will fix that. And to make sure it stays there steeda subframe connectors are a must. I was lucky to find out my rear is perfectly aligned from the factory so i never used the alignment kit. But i do have the subframe connectors, because I've also read posts about the rear moving after so many miles! You can also tell that your rear is outta wack when you go to install the subframe connectors and the bolt holes dont line up! You can rule pinion angle out because the diff is mounted to the irs frame so no matter what you do with your suspension it doesn't affect it!I have a shaftmasters aluminum. I have annoying vibration around 50 with the stock driveshaft. Which was exaggerated with the aluminum one. I also had a vibration right at 80mph with the aluminum driveshaft, which doesn't stop until 95-100. The extra response is great. The car shifted my better. I did not try indexing the driveshaft. I've since pulled it and will be dropping it off at a local race shop to check the balance. I have a feeling either the pinion angle is messed up or the rearend is off center. If you're racing a fair amount. It's definitely worth it.
I have the dss 4" aluminumI have an aluminum one, while I like how I could feel the reduced mass I don't think I'd do it all over again. Nvh sucks. Don't believe people telling you "theirs" didn't get any additional nvh. They all do add nvh, some people are just oblivious to it and not as sensitive. The nvh comes from a poor fixed stock s550 pinion angle from what I've been told by a few vendors.
I've got the cradle lock out kit and steeda irs locating kit. I'm not sure if it helps. I had already pulled the aluminum DS out. But wheel hop and tracking was greatly improved.After you get gour car back from the shop you should do the indexing just to see if that fixes it. If it doesn't then you can rule that out! Its a known fact that some of these cars come with mis aligned rear ends even the s-197's did. If thats the case then the steeda subframe alignment kit will fix that. And to make sure it stays there steeda subframe connectors are a must. I was lucky to find out my rear is perfectly aligned from the factory so i never used the alignment kit. But i do have the subframe connectors, because I've also read posts about the rear moving after so many miles! You can also tell that your rear is outta wack when you go to install the subframe connectors and the bolt holes dont line up! You can rule pinion angle out because the diff is mounted to the irs frame so no matter what you do with your suspension it doesn't affect it!
I have a 1 piece DSS aluminum. When I first installed it I had horrendous vibrations above around 70mph - to the point I was going to remove it. Instead I removed the diff lockout kit I had installed and all vibration when away.I have an aluminum one, while I like how I could feel the reduced mass I don't think I'd do it all over again. Nvh sucks. Don't believe people telling you "theirs" didn't get any additional nvh. They all do add nvh, some people are just oblivious to it and not as sensitive. The nvh comes from a poor fixed stock s550 pinion angle from what I've been told by a few vendors.