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Since I replaced both primary tensioner's I was able to compare them visually and by measuring with micrometer and bore gauge but found no major difference between the two tensioner's besides the drivers side showed more wear marks but nothing serious, I believe its possible the check valve...

I inspected and measured both tensioner's since I have the measuring tools (micrometer & bore gauge) and could not find any major measurment difference between the two but the drivers side did show more wear marks on inside of bore but nothing serious, These tensioner's have a check valve inside...

Thanks to member dbranger94 for posting that video because it's how I diagnosed my chirp noise and was able to repair it myself.

Hi, I did the work myself due to my warranty being expired and most likely dealer would have said its normal. It developed around 18k miles and chirp noise was definitely coming from drivers side head so I replaced both primary tensioner's and noise is completely gone but unfortunately it's a...

Finally got the noise fixed it was the drivers side primary cam chain tensioner.

True just wanted to check condition of cams, Noise starts around full oil temp so could it be a follower loosing oil preasure once oil gets hot a thins out.

Had mechanic go over engine with stethoscope and confirmed noise is loudest in drivers side head so pulled cam cover to inpect internals and everything looks perfect so it's a mystery.

Noise is definitely in the top end, I stopped by my friends shop today that is very familiar with rebuilding late model engines to let him listen, I'm going back Thursday to have him pull the drivers side cam cover a look around, Thanks for your input.

Sound does not change with PCV tube installed, Its a metallic sound like a dry bearing.

So my 2016 GT with 19k miles recently developed a chirping sound at idle, It does not make noise when cold only occurs at full temperature and seems to be coming from drivers side, I removed the serpentine belt then ran engine for a few seconds and noise still persists.

It was an expensive risk cause a few said it did not solve Vibe for them but solved it on mine.

I am 6 months Vibe Free thanks to replacing stock shaft with DynoTech shaft definitely the best $900 I have spent, I tow my drag bike and it sails down the highway 65-80mph super smooth pulling 1000 pounds.

Just noticed the tick in mine today, Oil has 4300miles and engine is at 15k without tune.

So after a few hundred miles of testing with the Dynotech shaft I have no more vibration at highway speeds and I can finally see out of my rear view mirror, Only negative is I now have some vibration under full throttle mainly in 2nd gear possibly from the one piece shaft having no guibo or...

I didn't add a balancer was considering one if needed.

1/8th inch will adjust later if needed.

Got my Dynotech shaft install complete along with 1/8th shims in the trans crossmember, So far feels pretty good no major vibrations like I had before, I'm not gonna say yet that I'm 100% cured until I put some more miles on it.

Steeda parts are great but unfortunately for me the alignment bushings and braces didn't solve my vibration I've decided to go the 1 peice shaft route and shim trans will post results soon.

Mine rattles on cold start and also when I rev it, I've went under car and when I bang on passenger side cat I can hear rattling inside it but not on drivers side, Noise is very annoying.

Oh ic well hopefully I won't have to go that route, Went to install dynotech today but they sent me the wrong pitch socket head bolts for trans flange, I not even bother contacting them will just pick up the correct ones Monday.