Full length 1-piece driveshaft owners - chime in

[wildcatgoal]

They are relatively close in weight. IMHO, you buy CF if you want a strong single piece driveshaft that still has SOME flex/twist in it - like with supercharged applications to protect the driveline in drag racing. Or if you have endless money. CF conceivably would also have slightly better NVH properties as it might not transmit as much resonance (theoretically). For an NA car, CF isn't so much lighter (if at all) that it justifies spending $500 more.

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[Dominant1]

My dynotech ds makes zero noise and is perfectly balanced!

 

[Grim12]

They are relatively close in weight. IMHO, you buy CF if you want a strong single piece driveshaft that still has SOME flex/twist in it - like with supercharged applications to protect the driveline in drag racing. Or if you have endless money. CF conceivably would also have slightly better NVH properties as it might not transmit as much resonance (theoretically). For an NA car, CF isn't so much lighter (if at all) that it justifies spending $500 more.

Thanks. Sounds like CF might help protect the half shafts a bit for manual cars.

 

[Mootang]

Off topic a little here since this is on driveshafts. Does anyone here know the part number for the 3 bolts at the front of the driveshaft? It is the one that connects the trans flange to the driveshaft. Looks like I need to replace it during the upgrade. Any help is appreciated, thanks!

 

[Sal GT]

Since we are on the topic, will either of these driveshafts alone lower drag racing et's (and increase mph) and if so what is the typical gain on a supercharged AUTO car running high 10s with stock suspension?

asking for a friend...

 

[s550v6]

Question...and my apologies if this has been brought up...but will a 1 piece drive shaft eliminate that nasty lash I get in the driveline?

 

[Dominant1]

No gain in et but gain on the butt dyno!

 

[NvrFinished]

Question...and my apologies if this has been brought up...but will a 1 piece drive shaft eliminate that nasty lash I get in the driveline?

I'm on coilovers with the BMR CB005 kit, BMR LCA bushings, BMR vertical links, Steeda adjustable camber arms, BMR adjustable toe rods, Ford Racing knuckle bearings, and Steeda differential bushings. I didn't have much issue with the clunk and driveline lash before these mods. However, after I did these mods it was much more pronounced.

I recently installed a DSS carbon fiber drive shaft and have to say I'm pleased with how it has reduced a lot of the clunking and driveline lash. It's still not as good as when the car was stock, but it has reduced it quite a bit.

 

[Sal GT]

No gain in et but gain on the butt dyno!

Lol. Gotta love the butt dyno!!

Ok, i hear the track gains are with manual cars and i guess not with Auto cars? Anyone else?

 

[jhatley7]

Lol. Gotta love the butt dyno!!

Ok, i hear the track gains are with manual cars and i guess not with Auto cars? Anyone else?

They most defiantly help, no question there, but a tenth or two will be hard to notice. Too much human error. Just my .02

 

[Dominant1]

Lol. Gotta love the butt dyno!!

Ok, i hear the track gains are with manual cars and i guess not with Auto cars? Anyone else?

Yeah autos have built in gaines especially with a 5c converter...

 

[Doctor Fishtail]

I have an aluminum one, while I like how I could feel the reduced mass I don't think I'd do it all over again. Nvh sucks. Don't believe people telling you "theirs" didn't get any additional nvh. They all do add nvh, some people are just oblivious to it and not as sensitive. The nvh comes from a poor fixed stock s550 pinion angle from what I've been told by a few vendors.

The NVH is NOT BAD AT ALL. I have the DSS aluminum one piece and love it. It is only noticeable to me over 90-100MPH. With that said I have the BMR solid engine mounts and the BMR solid rear differential bushings.

 

[Radialoutlaw]

Dynatech drive shaft

Can someone post a pick of the Automatic Dynatech drive shaft installed into their cars? I want to see if there is room for a 4" shaft. Dynatech will make it in 4" but said there may be interference issues. Aren't the DSS drive shafts 4"? Also wanted to see what yoke flanges they use on both ends. I know Sonnax makes a nice aluminum one for each end and I think Dynatech uses them but want to see one.

Thanks
Tim

 

[ORANG50]

I just installed a one piece DSS CF DS on my car. As one other noted, quicker acceleration is fantastic, and I would say improves the drive ability especially for a manual. I detect a slight increase in vibration, presumably due to the U-joint and new geometry between the trans and DS. Also, gear noise is noticeable above 45 MPH.

My observation (right or wrong) is that angle of the driveshaft stock is negligible, as each is pointed at the pivot point in the middle with the DS. Now the angles are extreme with a 1-piece. I would think lowering the engine, especially without lowering the trans crossmember, would make NVH worse, as it would point the trans output even higher and make the DS angles even more extreme, due to pivoting around the trans crossmember. I would think you would want to lower the trans output and/or pinion flange angles to be pointed more towards each other to reduce the angle on the U-joint. I would think this could be achieved by lowering the trans crossmember and/or employing offset bushings for the diff mounts (lower the front, maybe raise the back).

Flame suit on.

 

[BruceStang]

When I installed mine I did pick up a little NVH around 70MPH. I have all the IRS goodies and alignment stuff and I know the DS is installed correct so thanks to BMR's suggestion I tried correcting my pinion angle.

I shimmed my trans cross-member down .125 and my NVH is gone. DS is smooth at all speeds.

Thanks BMR for the great advice.

Where did you get the shims? I just got my car back with the DSS CF Driveshaft FDSH44-C-V2 and the hum and vibrations are unbearable around 80.. they start around 55. It's so bad I just want to go back to stock and return the DS.

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