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stanglife

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Any idea why the pump is wired differently? It's understandable with the trans, since it's a totally different transmission, but what's the logic behind the diff pump being different?
Without looking - I'd guess that the cars that came originally with the pumps, had the wiring for them integrated into the factory harness, to some degree. I doubt anyone would want to pay for, or replace an entire harness, so...
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Hack

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Any idea why the pump is wired differently? It's understandable with the trans, since it's a totally different transmission, but what's the logic behind the diff pump being different?
Well, I know some members on here were trying to experiment with methods to turn on the factory pump, and they couldn't do it with a simple 12V power feed. This system is set up to operate from a simple 12V power feed, and apparently FPP decided that the easiest or best way to do that was to change the pump.

The pump is from the same manufacturer as the pump on the track pack and R models, but my understanding is that the pump is merely rewired / reprogrammed to run from a different power source and switching signal. The pump says FoMoCo on it.
I got this wrong. The stock pump says FoMoCo on the black plastic cap, but the pump that looks pretty much identical that comes with the cooler kit has a slightly different black plastic cap that doesn't say FoMoCo on it.
 

Cammer

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I was able to install the wiring harness and switch panel yesterday and it's hooked up to 12V power and goes to the trunk. I'm trying to do everything possible except for the diff cover replacement because that's going to be a PITA.

What was a PITA for the harness installation was to get the power wire out to the engine bay. The harness comes completely assembled with a huge fuse holder spliced in. The hole in the "grommet" that passes through the firewall is about 1/4" in diameter and stretched a LITTLE, but nowhere near enough to allow the fuse holder to pass through. I ended up removing enough of the tape and wrap around the harness loom to find the soldered splice and unsoldered it. It then passes through the hole very easily except for having to fish it through blind and being in an awkward position pushing it through. Then I soldered it back together and fed it into the engine bay and hooked it up to power.

The instructions show a grommet to pass the harness through the trunk to the outside to connect to the pump and thermostatic switch. My kit didn't have this and my car only has a plug that won't do much to seal out water if I punch a hole in it. I checked with a dealer parts counter and the grommet is on national back order. I can just use the plug for now but will get the grommet later.

Hopefully I can get this completed next weekend. BTW, I'd recommend that you test the harness outside of the car to make sure everything is working. It would suck to install everything and it doesn't work for some reason.

Brian
 

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I was able to install the wiring harness and switch panel yesterday and it's hooked up to 12V power and goes to the trunk. I'm trying to do everything possible except for the diff cover replacement because that's going to be a PITA.

What was a PITA for the harness installation was to get the power wire out to the engine bay. The harness comes completely assembled with a huge fuse holder spliced in. The hole in the "grommet" that passes through the firewall is about 1/4" in diameter and stretched a LITTLE, but nowhere near enough to allow the fuse holder to pass through. I ended up removing enough of the tape and wrap around the harness loom to find the soldered splice and unsoldered it. It then passes through the hole very easily except for having to fish it through blind and being in an awkward position pushing it through. Then I soldered it back together and fed it into the engine bay and hooked it up to power.

The instructions show a grommet to pass the harness through the trunk to the outside to connect to the pump and thermostatic switch. My kit didn't have this and my car only has a plug that won't do much to seal out water if I punch a hole in it. I checked with a dealer parts counter and the grommet is on national back order. I can just use the plug for now but will get the grommet later.

Hopefully I can get this completed next weekend. BTW, I'd recommend that you test the harness outside of the car to make sure everything is working. It would suck to install everything and it doesn't work for some reason.

Brian
Thanks for the info. I was working on the wiring a little this weekend too. I got the parts through the grommet, but I agree it was difficult. I would recommend that the fuse holder and cap be wrapped with some tape to help them slide through without catching.

The ring terminal on the end of my power feed was the wrong size for the stud that it is supposed to attach to. Did you have that issue?
 

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Hack,

No, the ring terminal was correct on my harness.

Do you have a grommet in your spare tire well on the passenger side or just a plug like mine?

Brian
 

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Hack

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Hack,

No, the ring terminal was correct on my harness.

Do you have a grommet in your spare tire well on the passenger side or just a plug like mine?

Brian
A plug.
 

Side_Pce

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Going to build my own kits I think. Is there a fitting that you can buy (AN to the ford quick disconnect)??
 

Cammer

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Hope you have better luck getting the half shafts out. Utter failure doing this today so had to reassemble the car so I could take it to a shop sometime. Everything is in except for the diff cover!

Brian
 

xXANCHORMONXx

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Hope you have better luck getting the half shafts out. Utter failure doing this today so had to reassemble the car so I could take it to a shop sometime. Everything is in except for the diff cover!

Brian
Pulling them out of the hubs or removing it from the diff?

On new cars it can be a pain but there are tricks.
 

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Cammer

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I couldn't pop it out of the diff with a long pry bar.

Looking at YouTube videos shows guys using a screwdriver to pop out previous generation half shafts!

I'm guessing I just couldn't get enough leverage with the car up on a QuickJack.

Brian
 

UnhandledException

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Guys,

You are probably far better off selling your tech packs and buy a used 16/17 track pack. The install for this is way way way too involved not to mention you are stuck with switches that look like they came from apollo space program in 1970s.
 

Hack

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I couldn't pop it out of the diff with a long pry bar.

Looking at YouTube videos shows guys using a screwdriver to pop out previous generation half shafts!

I'm guessing I just couldn't get enough leverage with the car up on a QuickJack.

Brian
I had the same issue. I had to get a good pry bar and really brace myself under the car to pop them loose.

One other thing I noticed is that the template in Ford's instructions didn't match the metal plate that is supposed to go on the plastic panel with the LED and toggle switch. The scale of the template was off in my copy of the instructions. I assume that if any of you print out the online instructions you will have the same issue. Make sure you double check the template versus the plate before drilling holes!
 

xXANCHORMONXx

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I couldn't pop it out of the diff with a long pry bar.

Looking at YouTube videos shows guys using a screwdriver to pop out previous generation half shafts!

I'm guessing I just couldn't get enough leverage with the car up on a QuickJack.

Brian
You need to do a quick pop, once you have some good leverage they will come out. If the pry bar slips use some wood to prevent it.

The hog rings on the axles are in there good so it takes some finesse.
 
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Guys,

You are probably far better off selling your tech packs and buy a used 16/17 track pack. The install for this is way way way too involved not to mention you are stuck with switches that look like they came from apollo space program in 1970s.
There's something to be said for guys that take the bull by the horns. Thumbs up to every guy that takes this one on.
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